LHM Drips

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kiwi
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LHM Drips

Post by kiwi »

This has probably been covered a zillion times by now and well it must plaque us all.

LHM drips!

Got a small amount of it around the accumulator sphere and piping in that area. Seems to be originating out of the pressure regulator pipes where they join.
Have done a small tighten but dont want to risk overtightening so what if any options avaliable?
1991 BX19 TZS 04/01/91 (Deceased)
1990 BX19 TRS 27/10/89 (Reborn)
1992 BX19 TXD (Ex UK - K 744 SDF) 15/06/92
1990 BX19 TZS Auto 06/11/1989
1992 BX TZD Turbo Estate (Ex UK) 1/07/91
jeremy
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Post by jeremy »

Is the accumulator sphere any good? Test by the sit in the boot test.

One of its functions is to damp the pump pulses. If its flat there will be extreme pressure pulses which may cause minor leaks.

Otherwise its worth running a spanner over the pipe connections to make sure none have worked loose. they shouldn't be done up dead tight - just a moderate tightness on a SHORT spanner.
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Philip Chidlow
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Post by Philip Chidlow »

Sounds similar to a problem I had. It might well be the FDV weeping... I was advised to buy a roasting tin to put under it at night. A lot cheaper that getting it sorted. A new FDV isn't an option either unless you don't mind forking out $hundreds at you Citroen dealer!
• 1992 Citroen BX TZD Turbo Hurricane
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Oscar
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Post by Oscar »

Gentle tightening of the FDV pipes usually sorts this.
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Post by Doz »

Who was it told me at the national "Well, it's not good to keep all the LHM in"!!!!

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Doz

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kiwi
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Post by kiwi »

I already said that Tightening is not much of a option now they feel as tight as they will go.

I have a complete spare FDV so that could be and option

As for the accumullator sphere well just found receipt saying replaced in Oct 1999 at 97,000km (cr now done 180,00km)

So what is this bounce test? The FDV does not make the infamous clicking noise either.
1991 BX19 TZS 04/01/91 (Deceased)
1990 BX19 TRS 27/10/89 (Reborn)
1992 BX19 TXD (Ex UK - K 744 SDF) 15/06/92
1990 BX19 TZS Auto 06/11/1989
1992 BX TZD Turbo Estate (Ex UK) 1/07/91
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Post by jeremy »

To test the accumulator let the car settle at normal height with the engine running for a couple of minutes - then turn off the engine and sit in the boot. The car should drop a long way - then after about 30 seconds rise again to its original position powered by the accumulator.

If in doubt as to what should be happening do it with the engine running - should do exactly the same. If it does it properly with the engine running the accumulator is flat.
kiwi
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Post by kiwi »

Thanks Jeremy

Tried that and it sank then came back up several seconds later so I guess that rules out flat sphere.

Looks like a FDV swap on the cards, dont like that idea much incase damage the one pipe I dont have a spare of. Although considering the alernative of buying expensive LHM maybe worth the risk.
1991 BX19 TZS 04/01/91 (Deceased)
1990 BX19 TRS 27/10/89 (Reborn)
1992 BX19 TXD (Ex UK - K 744 SDF) 15/06/92
1990 BX19 TZS Auto 06/11/1989
1992 BX TZD Turbo Estate (Ex UK) 1/07/91
jeremy
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Post by jeremy »

I thought it was the regulator/accumulator that was leaking not the FDV.

FDV can be reconditioned if you are brave - see sticky on technical header page.

Why not clean the regulator carefully and see where the leak is. Pipe to FDV can crack especially if not properly secured and may drip to begin with. (probably more common on diesels)
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kermit the frog
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Post by kermit the frog »

I would go along with Jeremy on the pipe thing as i have had two h/p pipes and a hockey stick pipe (the pipe from the FDV to the pressure regulater ) go!
But my old thing has done 282K miles.
And yes they are more prone to leaks on diesels due to the vibration!
Check that the pipe from the pump to the FDV across the top of the bell housing has all it's support clips and rubber bushes intact they can fracture and allow the pipe to vibrate / resonate and fatigue crack.

It might be worth getting some new rubber seals from your citroen dealer and wash of the area with some water soluble engine degreaser.
Allow to dry or if you have acsess to a compressor blow dry it.

Undo the relief valve to dump all the system pressure 1/4 of a turn no more!. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT!!!!!

Remove each pipe carfully and clean check visually for cracks etc refit with new seal and tighten using a short spanner,
If you have another FDV clean it making sure that no debri gets in to it,
( if you are not 100% sure that it is absolutely clean DON'T FIT) change this at the same time you can then overhaul the old one.
HYDRAULICS AND DIRT DON'T GO TOGETHER!

One small tip i use is to place a spot of a light touch up stick paint into the union where the pipe goes through.
It will show you if the pipe becomes loose and the LHM will make the paint run if it leaks showing where the leak is.

Good luck KIWI and happy motoring

Regards KERMIT :)
ALAN S an oracle of knowledge sadly missed by us all RIP Mate
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kermit the frog
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Post by kermit the frog »

Just remembered one other thing :roll:

The two bolts that hold the FDV to the bell housing make sure they are tight they tend to rattle loose on diesels and the bolts holding the pressure regulator.

Good luck keep the BX going :!:

Regards KERMIT :)
ALAN S an oracle of knowledge sadly missed by us all RIP Mate
Green Hornet well I don't really know.GS project gone to pastures new
Blue Streak 1996(P) XANTIA VSX TD (130K.)
roscoe
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Post by roscoe »

It might also be the rubber O ring at the back of the pressure regulator - mine started dripping a bit and after a lot of cleaning and checking (and using flour to try and track the wet spots) that's what it was. Bought a new O ring and replaced and no more leaks. O ring over here was about AUD$27 if I remember. I had a spare PR but didn't use it as the one on my TZD is in good nick other than the O ring leak. It's a bit of a bugger getting the C-clip out that holds the end cap in the regulator, but using a socket inside it and compressing that in my vice allowed enough inward movement on the back plate to pry out the C clip, and the whole thing just comes apart then. A good wash in petrol, dry with compressed air, new O ring and it was done. Took more time trying to get it back in place with all the lines connected (with new seals) than overhauling it.
cheers,
Roscoe
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kiwi
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Post by kiwi »

Thanks Roscoe now that is more along the lines I was thinking.
1991 BX19 TZS 04/01/91 (Deceased)
1990 BX19 TRS 27/10/89 (Reborn)
1992 BX19 TXD (Ex UK - K 744 SDF) 15/06/92
1990 BX19 TZS Auto 06/11/1989
1992 BX TZD Turbo Estate (Ex UK) 1/07/91
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