My 19TRS ignition switch has lost its "spring", so when you turn it to start you have to manually turn it back a "notch" or the starter motor keeps on turning. I want to try and avoid fitting a different one to save having 2 keys, can it be fixed?
Ta!
Ignition Switch Petrol.
-
DavidRutherford
- BX Digit man!
- Posts: 2706
- Joined: Wed May 18, 2005 5:07 pm
- Location: Placing comments on YouTube.
The spring will be from the switch itself - not the barrel.
My BX had new locks throughout shortly before I got it in 1999 and has the later type with a spine on the key.
I recently had to change the lock on our ZX and wondered about keeping the old barrel. The new lock (Valeo) had a key with a spine in it and on inspection it was an entirely different component - even fastening in alternative holes in the mounting. Fitted perfectly once I worked out what was going on - but I have 2 keys for that car now.
You might be able to revive the lock but they do fail with age and pouring lubricants like WD40 into them is forbidden by the manufacturers as presumably there is a risk of fire.
I think all the after market locks are Valeo. If you can get the type with the flat key then you may be able to keep your old barrel.
An alternative would be to fit a 'Start' button
http://www.speeding.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000 ... 4133#a4133
My BX had new locks throughout shortly before I got it in 1999 and has the later type with a spine on the key.
I recently had to change the lock on our ZX and wondered about keeping the old barrel. The new lock (Valeo) had a key with a spine in it and on inspection it was an entirely different component - even fastening in alternative holes in the mounting. Fitted perfectly once I worked out what was going on - but I have 2 keys for that car now.
You might be able to revive the lock but they do fail with age and pouring lubricants like WD40 into them is forbidden by the manufacturers as presumably there is a risk of fire.
I think all the after market locks are Valeo. If you can get the type with the flat key then you may be able to keep your old barrel.
An alternative would be to fit a 'Start' button
http://www.speeding.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000 ... 4133#a4133
-
tim leech
Tim - must be the "C" spring then ?
This is located just under the chrome cap on top of the barrel, and is the return spring for the starter position.
Because of your RHD layout it might proove difficult to look how it fits as your drivers door limits access.
But on my RHD layout it was a matter of grooving a bit with a tiny 1mm drill bit on the barrel top, then slightly re-shaping the spring - and voilá.
This is located just under the chrome cap on top of the barrel, and is the return spring for the starter position.
Because of your RHD layout it might proove difficult to look how it fits as your drivers door limits access.
But on my RHD layout it was a matter of grooving a bit with a tiny 1mm drill bit on the barrel top, then slightly re-shaping the spring - and voilá.
C U / Anders - '90red16riBreak - '91GrisDolment16meteor - Project'88red19trsBreak
dead cars : '89white 16RS - '89antrasitTRDturboEst - '90white19triBreak
dead cars : '89white 16RS - '89antrasitTRDturboEst - '90white19triBreak
-
tim leech
One of the leads coming from the existing switch will be the switched ignition feed. Another will be the starter solenoid feed from the ignition switch. Connect the switched ignition feed to one side of the starter switch and the starter feed to the other. You will need to tap into the feed wire so that it still goes to the ignition switch - the starter feed can be disconnected from the switch.
Where you put the switch is up to your imagination!
The starter switch must be wired so its still impossible to start the engine with the steering lock engaged and/or the auxillary lights (ie brake and indicators etc) turned off.
Where you put the switch is up to your imagination!
The starter switch must be wired so its still impossible to start the engine with the steering lock engaged and/or the auxillary lights (ie brake and indicators etc) turned off.
Not quite - if your problem is a burnt out ignition switch contact set for the starter solonoid. A known problem on our BX'es.Kingswell wrote:It seems to me that whilst hooking up the switch is easy but it would still need the key to operate the steering lock and lights.
It sort of defeats the point of the button in the first place.
My personal experience is however, that the BX igintion lock barrel wears out before the contact sets in the switch section. The dreaded "key will no longer get in" syndrome
C U / Anders - '90red16riBreak - '91GrisDolment16meteor - Project'88red19trsBreak
dead cars : '89white 16RS - '89antrasitTRDturboEst - '90white19triBreak
dead cars : '89white 16RS - '89antrasitTRDturboEst - '90white19triBreak
My 16V had a push button fitted to the under side of the shroud prior to me buying it. I suspect it was put there so the starter could be spun without having the ignition on as in when doing compression tests etc, but I have used it as a handy by pass of the switch on starting, so all I do is turn the switch to "on" and then push this button (which we now have a relay also wired into) and I get fast starts every time, no chance of switch failure due to load and in your case, it means that the return spring then becomes irrelevant. 
I think this was what Jeremy was trying to link to above.
Alan S
I think this was what Jeremy was trying to link to above.
Alan S
By the time you're old enough to know it all, you can't remember why you were learning.
-
Geoffrey Gould
- BXpert
- Posts: 546
- Joined: Sat Jun 25, 2005 7:26 pm
- Location: Bristol.UK.
Switch.
Hello Tim. My penny's worth is that if the switch is begining to fail then the best thing is to replace it. With the flat key type there is a pin that wears and tilts, locks up solid and stops the key from entering the barrel, I have got round this by removing this pin. In my experiance this seems to happen more than the contacts wearing out, this would be in the original lock which is getting quite old now so I doubt that there are many left.
The replacement Valeo switches seem to wear the contacts out before anything else.
What happened to me recently was that the key was tight to turn to the start position and had to be turned back and sometimes did not contact, this progressed to the starter being engaged ' All the time!!' You really do not want this to happen.
A complete lock set was £63 or something like that from GSF, after Christmas when things are a little more solvent I am going to get another set then will have peace of mind and a spare key for each car.
Depends on what you are going to do with the car ie. keep it or not.
Cheers.
Geoff.
The replacement Valeo switches seem to wear the contacts out before anything else.
What happened to me recently was that the key was tight to turn to the start position and had to be turned back and sometimes did not contact, this progressed to the starter being engaged ' All the time!!' You really do not want this to happen.
A complete lock set was £63 or something like that from GSF, after Christmas when things are a little more solvent I am going to get another set then will have peace of mind and a spare key for each car.
Depends on what you are going to do with the car ie. keep it or not.
Cheers.
Geoff.
1991 BX 1-7 td Auto.
I MAY NOT BE ALWAYS RIGHT BUT I AM
NEVER WRONG.
I MAY NOT BE ALWAYS RIGHT BUT I AM
NEVER WRONG.
-
tim leech
Cheers Geoff, I will take the lockapart and have a look this weekend, I cant justify £63 on a new lock set to be honest on that paricular car as sadly its just not worth it. The lock itself is free and easy to use , just that it doesnt spring back from the "engage starter" position.
If it starts to give trouble I will locate a used lock and key anc change it, fortunatly as the remote locking works I ionly use the key for the petrol flap and of course the ignition.
Ta!
If it starts to give trouble I will locate a used lock and key anc change it, fortunatly as the remote locking works I ionly use the key for the petrol flap and of course the ignition.
Ta!