need to fix my heater blower motor

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ellevie
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Post by ellevie »

I assume that you have a 12 inch plumbers chain wrench and not just an oil filter wrench --- I broke one of those trying to remove an accumulator. I now have a decent 12 inch wrench but to get extra leverage, I attach a 2 foot length of roof batten to the handle by winding a few yards of rope around the batten and the handle. A length of scaffold pole would be even better. Accumulator spheres can be very difficult to remove. I had to jamb my feet against the cross member and use all my strength to shift two of them.
David

BX19TRS 118K E Reg 1992-2008
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maxgreenwood
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acc sphere

Post by maxgreenwood »

well i tried for the third time today to remove the acc sphere... no luck.
i even borrowed a tool from my local citroen dealer he sweared would work but broke it! and had to pay for replacement. tried the baton attached also.

driving via ferry to nottingham in the bx on 24th for xmas should be able to hook up with my uncle who is an ex citroen mechanic in notts to help and also do the heater motor.

just thought i'd let you know how i'm getting on!

at least i'm become a bit more familair with the internals of my beloved.

will report back...
'92 16TXS (m), Dark metallic green, 74k
'90 16TZS (m), White, 86k
'89 19TRS auto, Olympic Blue, 133k
'88 Saab 900 8v Turbo (auto) 107k Red with Tan leather, lovely drive and well maintained.
'07 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.2 CRDi 85k (m). Practical family wagon
ellevie
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Post by ellevie »

If you trawl this forum you'll find innumerable anecdotes of broken tools which have proved inadequate for loosening stubborn spheres. As well as the oil filter chain wrench that I broke, I also broke a socket chain wrench.

I can recommend the Silverline 427590 12" chain wrench available in the UK for less than £15.
www.mdonnelly.ie in Glasnevin are Silverline stockists in Dublin but I suspect that they would have to order it for you.
Why not give them a ring to see if it's in stock and what they charge.

Also try Googling "sphere removal tool" for a couple of homemade tools costing about £20.
These are supplied by somebody in the West Midlands but I don't know exactly where.

There is also the Pleiades tool costing closer to £40 in Sawtry, Cambridgeshire, 01487 831239

As a matter of interest, what type of tool was it that you broke and how much were you charged for its replacement ?
Your dealer's oath can't be worth much if he charged you after swearing that it would work.!
David

BX19TRS 118K E Reg 1992-2008
BX19TRS auto abs 96k F Reg
BX19TXD 150k K Reg
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AndersDK
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Post by AndersDK »

1 ea. 0.5m 3/4" waterpiping
1 ea. "T" 3/4" waterpiping
1 ea. bolt 8mmx60mm
1 ea. nut 8mm
1 ea. dished washer 8mm large diameter
1 ea. 1m of discarded S-belt with the mounting eye one end

Assemble pipes, drill 8mm hole through pipe 100mm from T, fit S-belt with bolt. Let S-belt loop over T then back through the mounting eye for self locking.
Fit loop around cleaned sphere, adjust belt for tight fit and pipe lever location, lever with the pipe.
The S-belt will withstand some 5ton of leverage.
Use a piece of bike tyre tube under the S-belt to increase friction in really stubborn cases.
Use the tool as you would use an oil filter sling/chain tool to ensure the self locking action during use : the harder you lever the harder the S-belt sling will grip around the sphere.

You cannot break the S-belt, no matter how violent you are. But you can in fact bend the 3/4" pipe if the sphere is one of those rare cases ... (I have yet to see or get feedback on this ... 8)

REMEMBER : the sphere is standard right oriented thread like any other usual bolt thread. Must be removed CCW.
C U / Anders - '90red16riBreak - '91GrisDolment16meteor - Project'88red19trsBreak
dead cars : '89white 16RS - '89antrasitTRDturboEst - '90white19triBreak
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Way2go
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Post by Way2go »

AndersDK wrote: Assemble pipes, drill 8mm hole through pipe 100mm from T, fit S-belt with bolt. Let S-belt loop over T then back through the mounting eye for self locking.
Fit loop around cleaned sphere, adjust belt for tight fit and pipe lever location, lever with the pipe.
:?: Need pictures to show orientation of T, method of looping etc. :?
1991 BX19GTi Auto
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maxgreenwood
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Post by maxgreenwood »

success!

I'm feeling chuffed as i managed to get the acc sphere off today using a friend's chain wrench wedged into a bit of the pole from our old table umbrella i haksawed through this morning! I tell you leverage is underrated. might have been assited by the WD40 i sprayed around the mating face a few hours earlier tho.

so got in there and smartly brass punched the ball bearing. I feel it should have been a bit of a harder knock although i didn't want to try again for fear of making a hash of it. new acc sphere on, and tick time is up to something like 20-25 secs it seems, although this is with a 1 sec long hiss. sometimes, usually when engine is cold the ticks are shorter but more frequent.. i don't know why this is?

the acc shpere seems stronger on the boot test, although i actually think the old one was ok, but been in there since 2001, maybe regassed i don't know but anyway i'm pleased to get my tick frequency down. i'll probably look at the lhm return rates as advised at some point to check other components also.

as for the heater blower motor.. havn't even looked yet, but might have a gander tomorrow. driving via ferry to notts on xmas eve for a week to spend xmas with the folks, be nice to have heat when stationary.

i had a coolant drop the other day, got a new rad cap as a precaution, i saw something similar on the forum.. i had fluid in drivers' footwell area, ....would someone be able to tell me... do i just unbolt the plastic under steering column to check for leaks in hoses in that area? is it going to die on the way acroos wales/uk?!!!

BY THE WAY....A BIG thankyou to all who have imparted words of wisdom, i was beginning to feel like i was out of my depth but a few goes jacking the car up and getting in there and then a result has given me the confidence to maybe tackle some more maintanance jobs.

It was this forum that got me interested in buying a bx , i've always fancied a hydraulic citroen. she's driving beautifully at the moment, new spheres all round, be interested to see what difference a clean of the intercooler would make.
'92 16TXS (m), Dark metallic green, 74k
'90 16TZS (m), White, 86k
'89 19TRS auto, Olympic Blue, 133k
'88 Saab 900 8v Turbo (auto) 107k Red with Tan leather, lovely drive and well maintained.
'07 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.2 CRDi 85k (m). Practical family wagon
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Oscar
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Post by Oscar »

Hello and welcome to the forum

If you've got coolant drop and fluid in the driver's footwell, chances are that your heater matrix has developed a leak. DO NOT drive anywhere without a lot of replacement coolant in the boot, and regular checks (every few miles or so) to top the coolant up. Keep your heating OFF to stop coolant circulating from the engine to the matrix, where the leak is.

The good news is that replacing the heater matrix is easier on a BX than on other Citroens. You'll need to get all the steering cowling off and remove the steering intermediate shaft, but you won't need to take the dash out. Taking the steering wheel out is not necessary but improves access. When you are tightening up the steering mounting nuts afterwards, go very carefully as the studs are weak and can easily be snapped off.

A new matrix should be easy to find at a factors. Don't be tempted to seal it temporarily with Radseal or similar as a) it won't work for long, and b) it can permanently block the cooling channels in your engine, leading to overheating problems later.

While you're replacing the heater matrix, console yourself with the thought that it's an opportunity to flush the cooling system and replace the coolant.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news. Happy Christmas!

Oscar
(Red BX 1.7TZD ("Well, it is a style icon" - Tom Sheppard)) "Was", Tom, "was"
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maxgreenwood
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Post by maxgreenwood »

hi oscar,

when the coolant dropped and the low level indicator came on i topped up the expansion tank and all was well. i looked on the forum and saw someone else had spotted fluid in drivers footwell so had a look myself. all i actually saw was a slimy residue on the mat on left hand side, not any real amount of fluid as such. don't know if its a leak or not. I've been driving the car around since probably 100 miles fine with heater on full (although my fan doesn't work) and engine fully warming up, coolant level not changing.

i'm driving 200 miles tomorrow, going to chance it i think and have a look at it in notts. You'll probably think i'm crazy.. what do you reckon?

Hoping
'92 16TXS (m), Dark metallic green, 74k
'90 16TZS (m), White, 86k
'89 19TRS auto, Olympic Blue, 133k
'88 Saab 900 8v Turbo (auto) 107k Red with Tan leather, lovely drive and well maintained.
'07 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.2 CRDi 85k (m). Practical family wagon
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Oscar
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Post by Oscar »

You're going to fit right in to this forum!

How did it go?

Oscar
(Red BX 1.7TZD ("Well, it is a style icon" - Tom Sheppard)) "Was", Tom, "was"
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maxgreenwood
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it went and it came back

Post by maxgreenwood »

Hi Oscar,

well we did the trip to Notts no probs and i suspect i was being paranoid and thought dampness in footwell was leakage although i did have a coolant level drop.. hoping it was my old rad cap. I do plan to get under there though and have a look at some point.

must get that heater motor working.. steamy windows.
'92 16TXS (m), Dark metallic green, 74k
'90 16TZS (m), White, 86k
'89 19TRS auto, Olympic Blue, 133k
'88 Saab 900 8v Turbo (auto) 107k Red with Tan leather, lovely drive and well maintained.
'07 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.2 CRDi 85k (m). Practical family wagon
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Oscar
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Post by Oscar »

Hi

Glad to hear it, well done.

O
(Red BX 1.7TZD ("Well, it is a style icon" - Tom Sheppard)) "Was", Tom, "was"
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