that old starting problem again !!

[cacaolat]

Hello everyone,
Today I started the car to park it in another very close parking spot. I managed to let the engine die and after that the car would not start again.
This problem has last happened last August and I thought it was down to the amplifier plug, which just needed to be cleaned. Before that it has happened another 2-3 times. Since that the car has been used all the time and worked a treat.
Today I took Marks advice and downed the accelerator first, then I tried to start it.
I also removed the plug to the amplifier and put it back on. Last time I had the problem we thought that was it.
I removed the air filter and checked if the choke flap was closed, and It was.
I used the spark tester (only on one sparkplug) and the spark was there.
Now I am just waiting until the problem is fixing itself again ? any other suggestion of how it could be solved for good !

[M]

any other suggestion of how it could be solved for good !

Repeatedly cranking it over shouting "start ya bastard" till it works

[cacaolat]

The first time this happened I have done exactly that (without the shouting), but the starter motor went up in smoke.

[AndersDK]

A carby fitted BX -

Then it would also have the ignition module fitted on the side of the dizzy body. This is the 5pin (2 + 3) plug type and fits a large range of car makes & models of the same era. Should be very to obtain from aftermarket dealers at some £25.

This module is known to notoriusly tease the guts out of you over a long period of time, until it finally no warning goes dead for good.

Problem is that the pellet inside the module containing the electronics, is connected to the exterior connetor pins by very fine and sensitive bonded wires. Despite the cavity inside filled up with a silicone mass, the wires can take so much vibrations, then they snap off - at random - after years of service.

Warning : this module may be priced stupidly as genuine OEM part - more than 100quids

[cacaolat]

Is this the ignition module ?

[tim leech]

My 19TRS auto soon to be billies can be a bit of a pain when its cold, I find crank it over for a bit then if it doenst then I floor the throttle, its starts then and then the autocchock takes over

[cacaolat]

I just went out there to try again. The car starts nearly. If I fully press the accelerator whilst turning the ignition key the engine starts picking up but then it dies again as it was just not enough.
I will try tomorrow again.
Should I test the spark tester on all 4 sparkplugs ? could this symtoms mean that only half of them have enough spark ?

[AndersDK]

Yep - its the ignition modul on the photo allright.

I'd take the route you depict : first check the plugs, next : check if fuel is admitted to the carb, simply by cranking engine while fuel hose is lead into a jar.

Make sure you test it down to either ignition or fuel missing. Cant be both missing, as that woul be highly unlikely.

PS : you dont need any special plug tester. Simply unplug one of the plug leads and stick into the cable plug a round shaft screwdriver. Then arrange for some 10-12mm distance from screwdriver shaft to nearby engine earth, by use of some dry & clean rags. You should get a solid 10-12mm blue spark loudly ticking, if your ignition system is up to par.
If you only get a red-yellowish short spark by narrowing the screwdriver shaft distance to engine earth, then you know its NOT right.
Its the best test immediately telling you if the ignition system has got the beef intended to have from factory.

[ellevie]

You might as well test it on all 4 plugs because it's so easy to do, but I suspect that you will get a flash on all of them.

It's good that you have the spark tester, but it would have been better if you got no flash --- at least then you would know for sure that it was a spark problem.

For completeness you should try and test the strength of the spark --- the spark tester doesn't do that; it only tells you that the spark is present --- not how strong it is. What you need to do is see how far you can make the spark jump to earth --- any metal part of the engine for example. Use one of the spark leads with the cap pulled back to expose the metal connector, or use an old plug or a suitable screw or piece of wire, etc to "extend" the connector. Either get an assistant to hold the connector close to earth or use some string to rig it up. A good spark should jump at least 1cm. If it turns out that the spark is weak then it will be time to test the coil and/or amplifier depending on what is available and cost.

[cacaolat]

How about this ? it sounds like a small project well worth it
http://www.bxclub.co.uk/forum/viewtopic ... ight=relay

[ellevie]

But you don't have any reason to suspect that your starter is weak do you ? You would be able to hear it if it was struggling. I have two 19TRSes and they both start without any problem without the need for a starter mod.

[cacaolat]

I may have got the wrong message from that post. I thought it may make the whole car a more reliable quick starter. Sometimes I have to turn the ignition for a few seconds until the engine starts. I thought it may be because the starter motor is turning a bit too slow, but I have no way of comparing it.

[AndersDK]

I may have got the wrong message from that post. I thought it may make the whole car a more reliable quick starter. Sometimes I have to turn the ignition for a few seconds until the engine starts. I thought it may be because the starter motor is turning a bit too slow, but I have no way of comparing it.

Please dont.

You know the car is a reluctant starter, but worse : it runs like a pig WHEN its started.
Dont loose focus on your problem. Most important when chasing car problems !
Go track down IF its ignition OR its a fuel problem. Then you are 2/3 your way thru the problems, I promise

[ellevie]

When both of mine are cold and haven't been used for a few days it will normally take a good few "chugs" of the starter before they fire up, as much as 10 or even more, but I know that as long as the battery is sound that they will eventually fire up. For years I had a starting problem on the older of the two and I eventually traced it to a weak/intermittent spark. The ignition circuit on yours is quite a bit different so that you don't have the exact bit that was at fault in mine, but I could still see that you might have a weak spark problem. The spark strength test is a bit fiddly at first but it's well worth trying --- it will probably take you a while to get the "feel" for it.

[mnde]

My first Meteor had this really bad. It hated short journeys and one time even after being left several hours it still wouldn't start. The only way the AA man could get it going was by holding the choke flap open slightly while I operated the starter. So whenever it happened again, I was able to get it going by sticking a screwdriver into the throat to keep the flap artificially open, then turning the ignition key. Once going, the engine was always rough for the first minute or two (keep the revs at 1500-2000) then it settled down and I could get out and remove the screwdriver and replace the air filter duct.

Similarly, the current Meteor used to have the same issue - God help me if I let it stall when still cold! But, since cleaning up and lubing all the carb autochoke linkage mechanism, and resetting the ignition timing it's been a lot better. Still difficult to start after a very short journey in this weather - but - it *will* start! I'm told the initial rough running (chugging) at cold is caused by the autochoke not backing off quickly enough (i.e. too rich), and that this can be adjusted.

One other thought: when you turn the ignition key, does the rev counter show signs of life while the starter is turning? I'm just saying because last year I was stranded with a failed COIL and had to be trailered home at great cost

Good luck!

P.S. Where are you in London again?