hey all, a couple o questions before i finish the waterpump replacement on my turbo d.
i dont now if i'm just dumb or maybe the cold has turned my brain numb but i cant get the bleed ontop of the radiator to open, the book of lies shows a thumb screw type effort but mine seems to only turn 90 degrees and then no more, but it turns quite freely during those 90 deg, i have tried pushing,pulling,swearing all to no avail, someone please tell me the secret, the rad drain plug is the same but i got round that buy removing the bottom hose.
the other question is that the bol shows 2 bleeds on the thermostat but my car only has one, does this mean i'm more likely to have to pressurise the system whilst bleeding it?
cheers fellas
bleeding a turbo d
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ken newbold
- Over 2k
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The bleed and drain plugs are the same. You need to pull and twist at the same time. You may need a pair of pliers to get better grip. But don't go mad and just twist, pull at the same time.
Mine only has one bleed screw on, some have a bleed on one of the hoses, so I undid the hose at one end to assist bleeding.
Mine only has one bleed screw on, some have a bleed on one of the hoses, so I undid the hose at one end to assist bleeding.
They think it's all over, it is now!
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jonathan_dyane
- BXpert
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- Joined: Sat Feb 09, 2008 7:15 pm
- Location: Liverpool
I think, from your description, that the way your bleed works is turn 90 degrees then *pull* upon which it will withdraw by about 1/2 an inch. It may need a firm tug with pliers...
Some cars have a bleed on or by the thermostat housing, my turbo did not; having the expansion tank the turbo's aren't quite as tricky to bleed as the NA models.
Heater on hot, fill expansion tank until bubble free-air floods from the rad bleed, then fill expansion tank to the very top! I then would again open the bleed briefly to confirm no trapped air.
Start engine and run until thermostat opens, adding water if and as required, then go for a run and it will find it's own level.
Some cars have a bleed on or by the thermostat housing, my turbo did not; having the expansion tank the turbo's aren't quite as tricky to bleed as the NA models.
Heater on hot, fill expansion tank until bubble free-air floods from the rad bleed, then fill expansion tank to the very top! I then would again open the bleed briefly to confirm no trapped air.
Start engine and run until thermostat opens, adding water if and as required, then go for a run and it will find it's own level.
"Boring damned people. All over the earth. Propagating more boring damned people. What a horror show. The earth swarmed with them." -Charles Bukowski
cheers for the sanity saving advise, although i had a few moments of doubt as the new water pump that had been torqued to specified settings proceeded to leak water past the gasket in a fairly vigorous manner. fortunately a little tighter on the bolts and the cooling system up to temp seemed to sort the job.
roll on the next challange.
roll on the next challange.