Hi all ok first question
Why wont my car start lol its not kicking over it sounds like its got a flat but yet its got a new 1 week old batt on it any ideas? (and Alt is under 2 years old)
Question 2
Is it safe to jack car up in low hight?? its on the lowest setting and am keen to replace front wheel and underseal under the boot as i can see rust starting to apear
Would like to do this before AA man comes out to look at car this morning as ive got nothing to do for 1-2 hrs untill cars started
Couple off Q's
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Couple off Q's
Jon MISSING hes BX 17 TZD
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I might be a bad earth connection stopping the starter from taking enough current to turn it over properly, or perhaps the starter motor itself is worn out. When my starter motor went it just took a few attempts before it would engage with the engine and was quite slow to turn.
I am sure someone will correct me if I am wrong. But I can't see any reason why you can not jack the car up with it on the lowest setting. the main problem would probably be getting a jack under it when it is low down
I guess the only thing to watch is that if it is low as you jack it up there may be more sideways force on the jack so I would be careful the jack doesn't slip out from under the side of the car.
Rob
I am sure someone will correct me if I am wrong. But I can't see any reason why you can not jack the car up with it on the lowest setting. the main problem would probably be getting a jack under it when it is low down
I guess the only thing to watch is that if it is low as you jack it up there may be more sideways force on the jack so I would be careful the jack doesn't slip out from under the side of the car.
Rob
BX19 GTi 8v 89 227k
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I feel so silly the car was part in gear but not enough for it to jump forward
I normaly check am not in gear and today i did not (in a rush) and now i wish i did lol AA man thought it was funny thou
Just done wheel put car in high and jacked it up seemed ok
I normaly check am not in gear and today i did not (in a rush) and now i wish i did lol AA man thought it was funny thou
Just done wheel put car in high and jacked it up seemed ok
Jon MISSING hes BX 17 TZD
and the Smasshed up Escort est
and the Smasshed up Escort est
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It was either in gear or it wasn't. Sounds like it was actually in gear. The car won't jump forward as the handbrake works on the front wheels on a BX, hence you lock the driveshafts directly, and as you were in gear, the gearbox too.surrey_man wrote:I feel so silly the car was part in gear but not enough for it to jump forward
this might be a signature
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The handbrake cables are adjust on the front calipers. Given that thats where they go!
They rarely need adjusting though.
If the lever is coming up along way then release the handbrake and with the engine running stand very hard on the foot brake. That will adjust the handbrake for you!
They rarely need adjusting though.
If the lever is coming up along way then release the handbrake and with the engine running stand very hard on the foot brake. That will adjust the handbrake for you!
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Far too many BX's, a bus, an ambulance a few trucks, not enough time and never enough cash...
Far too many BX's, a bus, an ambulance a few trucks, not enough time and never enough cash...
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Better still :
with engine running, car secure not to roll off, then pump the brake pedal slowly but hard against the bottom stop. You will notice the pedal can move approx ½ an inch further down, when pressed hard enough. This is the handbrake adjusting pressure.
Alternatively press and hold the pedal hard, then work out the handbrake lever.
You will notice how the lever gets harder and harder to move up.
If this does not happen, then the cables are adjusted too tight at the caliper lever arms, preventing the auto adjust mechanism to move (inside the caliper piston). The cables should just barely start to take up the springforce on the caliper lever arms, when handbrake is released. This ensures the cables are just exactly NOT slack.
NOTE : the function (onset) of the handbrake must never be adjusted by the cables to compensate brake pads wear. This must only be done as pr the above description.
with engine running, car secure not to roll off, then pump the brake pedal slowly but hard against the bottom stop. You will notice the pedal can move approx ½ an inch further down, when pressed hard enough. This is the handbrake adjusting pressure.
Alternatively press and hold the pedal hard, then work out the handbrake lever.
You will notice how the lever gets harder and harder to move up.
If this does not happen, then the cables are adjusted too tight at the caliper lever arms, preventing the auto adjust mechanism to move (inside the caliper piston). The cables should just barely start to take up the springforce on the caliper lever arms, when handbrake is released. This ensures the cables are just exactly NOT slack.
NOTE : the function (onset) of the handbrake must never be adjusted by the cables to compensate brake pads wear. This must only be done as pr the above description.
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dead cars : '89white 16RS - '89antrasitTRDturboEst - '90white19triBreak
dead cars : '89white 16RS - '89antrasitTRDturboEst - '90white19triBreak