Handbrake?

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Way2go
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Handbrake?

Post by Way2go »

Way2go wrote:Am I missing something here? :?

Handbrake adjustment is the last job before MOT Re-test. Currently the pull is 14 clicks and it's not being taken up on the auto adjusters.

So trying to adjust a cable that has not been re-adjusted before initial fitting back a bit, according to Haynes BOL. Can undo locknut, can unscrew what Haynes say is the adjusting nut but can't screw it up to pull the cable back. :? Have used penetrating oil but so called adjusting nut just acts as a locknut on both caliper bodies.

What is the proper procedure? :? :? :?
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stuart_hedges
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Post by stuart_hedges »

jonkw wrote:Um, Ok, so first of all, with the car running, in High, hit the brake pedal with your foot a few times like you hate it, and pull the handbrake on and off. Take foot off brake, and see if the lever travel has reduced as a result of this vicious self adjustment.
Disturbingly, you've brought back a childhood memory of my Dad doing this to the GT at red traffic lights. It used to give my mum the right shits - I have a feeling that was half the reason he did it so often :twisted:
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Way2go
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Post by Way2go »

Thanks for reply, but what is bugging me at the moment is the screwed end of the cable seems solid in the caliper (both sides) despite todays application of penetrating oil. Both nuts are free on both sides but screwed bit cannot be pulled out further with adjusting nut nor does it go in when adjusting nut is loosened? I take it that where the screwed end goes into the caliper that is a clearance hole to the end of the thread and that the screw is not screwed into the caliper itself? :?

I will annotate questions/info on your reply so you can see where I am with this.

[quote="jonkw"]Um, Ok, so first of all, with the car running, in High, hit the brake pedal with your foot a few times like you hate it, and pull the handbrake on and off. Take foot off brake, and see if the lever travel has reduced as a result of this vicious self adjustment.

Have done this but it gave no joy, that's why I'm trying now to adjust the cables to lower the number of 'clicks'

Release handbrake fully, jack car up and remove front wheels, adhering to normal safety checks. OK

As regards the adjustment on the cables, use a 19mm spanner to hold the main adjuster nut, then a 17mm spanner on the smaller locknut. Loosen the locknut. (Done this.) If there is any adjustment to be gained, check by pulling back the cable by hand, if there is adjustment, then the 19mm nut will move back from the caliper body. Do up 19mm nut to take up the slack, Adjusting nut moves against casting like a lock nut, it doesnt pull the thread out nor does it rotate it, nor does the thread move in when the adjusting nut is unscrewed. then bring up 17mm locknut. If the 19mm nut just moves the cable Both nuts move but screw thread is I think stuck despite the penetrating oil so far (assuming casting is clearance hole and not screwed into this) and does not move in, then spray with penetrating lube, then grip cable outer (back of threaded part) with mole grips, and then try and move the 19mm nut again. It should then shift. Do both sides. Again whack your foot on the brake as described, and see if the handbrake travel has reduced.

If it has not:

1) One of the handbrake mechanisms in the caliper has seized or broken
Both cables are of equal length by looking at the equaliser on handbrake lever so I do't have situation of one adjusting and not the other :?
2) One of the handbrake cables has stetched or broken.
I guess that there has been some equal stretch which is the reason to adjust. These cables have not had this adjustment performed since original installation.
3) The front pads and or discs are just so thin there is no adjustment left.
(Discs were replaced previously when these pads started their life) I have taken the pads out, removed brake dust cement that was jamming the sliders and had resulted in the offside pads wearing 2 to 3 times faster than the nearside which I believe gave me the 26% out of balance reading on the front brakes. Had to hammer out the retaining channel, very tough. (Pistons and sliders free to move) offside pads probably have 3mm left to the wear indicator lights. Scraped the black cement like material off the ear channels, copperslipped and then was able to insert retaining channel by hand.

It's frustrating that this silly (what should be quick) adjustment is keeping me from the retest and getting back on the road.
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Rob_e (UK)
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Post by Rob_e (UK) »

I think the Haynes manual mentions, when fitting new pads, to wind the piston back into the caliper enough to leave about 1mm or so clearance between the pad and the disc when the new pads are in place to allow the handbrake adjuster enough room to work.
So you could try winding the pistons back in a bit more and then putting the pads back in with a bit of clearance; then try the stamping on the brake pedal thing again and see if that gets the adjusters to work.

Rob
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Post by jeremy »

I'm curious - as the cables on my TD have always (for the last 9 years) been relatively loose in the fittings on the caliper - so that I can quite easily pull them back, leaving the adjusting nuts free.

If the cables are adjusted too tight they will not allow the self adjusters to work.

I'd back off the adjusters fully and start again. - ie slacken off, try and adjust on the pedal/lever then see what happens when trying to adjust according to Haynes.

As you'll have seen from a search of this site the usual problem is with the cable, the outer cover fracturing on the supporting loop. I take it your cables are in good condition?
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Way2go
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Post by Way2go »

Done It! Bloody Hell that was hard! :evil:
~ale~
Nutted it, shook it with mole grips, levered it, tapped it with a hammer, Penetrating Oiled it many times, levered it, shook it, wd40'd it a few times, nutted it a few times more in between more fluid application and FINALLY after literally several hours they started to pull under the extreme nut pressure out of the casting.
Have adjusted it but now at least later when the cables need to be replaced they can be removed from the casting as even replacement wasn't an option previously with the old ferrules resisting all force. :D

I'll have to see what the MOT man says tomorrow!
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prm
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Post by prm »

Jeremy

I know exactly what you mean, some can appear very slack.

One point to check, which no doubt you’ve done, is remove the rubber boot on the calliper hand brake mechanism and to see if the actuating shaft attached to the main arm, top and bottom swivel points are not dry and the return springs are ok.
Ounce a year, I normally give this mechanism a very short blast of spray grease, with the thin spray nozzle extension tube inserted through the boot alongside the shaft.

I wonder if you may have 16V actuating arms fitted to your callipers making adjustment difficult??.

With the hand brake cables, spiral electrical cable wrap works well around the steel guides to reduce outer covering wearing. Also, applied any thick black paint to seal the plastic outer sheath where if joins the ferrule/stop, and adjuster stem, to avoid any water getting in around this area.
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Post by docchevron »

prm wrote: I wonder if you may have 16V actuating arms fitted to your callipers making adjustment difficult??.
:?: :?: :?:

Erm, 16v calipers are no different at all to any other BX caliper.
The only difference is the width of the jaw.
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Post by prm »

Thanks Doc.

I was always under the impression that that the wider 16V calliper and hand brake mechanism shaft were paired.

Should have kept some old std. units as spares. :oops:
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Way2go
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Post by Way2go »

Yippee! \:D/ MOT man said YES and gave me the green one with no advisories! :D
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