I put a reconned engine in my turbo hatch last year. Not used it much since but when I do I notice two things - 1. The performance is better than before and better than my turbo estate, and 2. the fuel consumption has increased to 9 miles per litre compared with over 10 that I used to get.
So what has caused the 10%+ increase in fuel consumption.
I don't have any info on adjusting bosch pumps but looking at it I notice that the temperature controlled advance lever on the front of the pump has very little (2mm) movement from cold to hot. Should it move more than this ? The other temperature device for idle speed on the back of the pump has a much larger movement range.
Also in the same area the mechanical engine stop lever has no adjusting screw for the resting position, only an empty threaded hole. Is this normal ?
Anyone know a link for a Bosch service manual and anything else to check. I dont think at the moment that it is timed wrongly because the performance is so good.
Bosch Diesel Pump
- Jaba
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Bosch Diesel Pump
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- jonathan_dyane
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It's a long time since I've had much to do with a Bosch pump, but what I can say is that it is rare for the pump to need adjusting *unless* either someone has been messing with it, or a locknut has vibrated loose.
Assuming that your air filter is clean and you have checked for brakes binding, my first port of call would be to check the pump (and cam) timing, first that the belt isn't out a tooth, and failing that set the pump properly with a DTI; you'll get one cheap from machine mart, and the procedure is reasonably well discussed in Haynes...
Assuming that your air filter is clean and you have checked for brakes binding, my first port of call would be to check the pump (and cam) timing, first that the belt isn't out a tooth, and failing that set the pump properly with a DTI; you'll get one cheap from machine mart, and the procedure is reasonably well discussed in Haynes...
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- jonathan_dyane
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PS, the waxstat should hold the lever on the pump tightly when the engine is cold, and release it against the other stop when hot. The waxstat's do fail however, in which case in this weather I would just slacken the cable and do without. The waxstat on my 205 has been dead since I got it, and even sub zero it only needed a dab of throttle to start and would idle ok after a few moments running.
Last time I bought a waxstat it was ITRO 20 quid from GSF...
Last time I bought a waxstat it was ITRO 20 quid from GSF...
"Boring damned people. All over the earth. Propagating more boring damned people. What a horror show. The earth swarmed with them." -Charles Bukowski
Re: Bosch Diesel Pump
Note that this is the cold start injection TIMING advancer, meaning the timing is not spot on as you think.Jaba wrote: I don't have any info on adjusting bosch pumps but looking at it I notice that the temperature controlled advance lever on the front of the pump has very little (2mm) movement from cold to hot. Should it move more than this ?
The released cable with a hot waxstat should be 6mm movement minimum. So you have a problem.
The timing is relatively easy to optimise using the dead simple approach of fine adjusting the pump position in its mounting bracket.
With hot engine and cold start timing advance lever fully relaxed - then try turning the pump a wee bit in its mounting bracket with running engine.
(there are 3 bolts in slotted holes to slacken at sprocket end).
If you get a more distinct diesel knocking - then you are advancing too much. If the diesel knocking disappears and the engine runs quiet - you are retarding too much. The optimum is where you just precisely have the distinct but not too heavy diesel clatter.
It can only be done correct with a hot engine !
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