4X4 Driveline

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cxprestigeauto
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4X4 Driveline

Post by cxprestigeauto »

I am about to renew the O/S CV gaiter and am after some advice on the lubricants in the transfer box.

Am I right in assuming the front driveshafts come off the transfer box or do they come out of the 'normal' gearbox?

According to the handbook the transfer box uses Total Transmission X4. This seems to be standard 80/90 GL gearbox oil?

The gearbox is standard 75/80 gearbox oil.

I assume there is nothing special about extracting the driveshaft? I onlt need to do the O/S since all the other gaiters are good. I will be changing the pads and discs at the same time and giving the old gal a GOOD service. The LHM is very low and sludgy! I will be treating her to a good hydraflush. Despite this she pumps up VERY quickly from cold.

All advice welcome.

Rob
CX 25 IE Pallas auto 1985
Banham Sprint Kit Car (Frogeye Sprite)
Renault Modus 1.5 106 dci (Company Car)
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Post by docchevron »

I'm sure that the front shafts do indeed fit the gearbox in the usual fashion a la 2WD versions.
Although why remove the shaft to do the CV gaitor?
I never do...

Just undo the 35mm hub nut, split the BJ, pull the hub off the shaft, hold the shaft and hit the CV joint off with a copper faced hammer.
Job done!
Smokes lots, because enough's enough already!

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cxprestigeauto
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Post by cxprestigeauto »

Well CV and discs/pads all done. Oil filter was welded on (OK slight exageration but you know what I mean). Pulled the driveshaft out but no oil followed :? Need to find the level plug and see if there is any in the 'box!!!

Took for a quick spin to warm the oil up and the oil filler looked a little white........................

Hadn't quite planned on doing the head gasket :cry: I will look again when I am feeling brave!

Next job is to weld up small hole in exhause and fit a set of legal tyres! Then remove the sludge pretending to be LHM and give it a good Hyadraflush. Then off to see the nice MoT tester for a ticket.

Must also change the cam belt (suddenly realised last night that it had one :oops: ) since heaven only know when (if?) it was last done.
CX 25 IE Pallas auto 1985
Banham Sprint Kit Car (Frogeye Sprite)
Renault Modus 1.5 106 dci (Company Car)
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Post by AndersDK »

Will you please stop gutting out yourself - just because of some mayonnaise on the oil filler plug !

I have never ever trusted the old school of saying that white mayonnaise in the oil filler is a blown HG.
But I have learned (the hard way !) that XU engines spits out the water (from overpressure) WHEN the HG is blown for good.

PS : even a fresh oil may still collect some mayonnaise from a long neglected engine - because of moisture all over in the strangest places of the engine.
Next time you have a go with the engine, try the simple thermostat test with your hand to check that the large radiator top hose stays cool for several minutes after engine start - and then SUDDENLY increases rapidly in temperature when the thermostat opens as it should.
If the top hose sloooowly gets hotter, then you ned a new thermostat.
A cool running engine will for certain develop mayonnaise in the oil filler ...
C U / Anders - '90red16riBreak - '91GrisDolment16meteor - Project'88red19trsBreak
dead cars : '89white 16RS - '89antrasitTRDturboEst - '90white19triBreak
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Post by docchevron »

Spot on.
Even my valver has a tendency to collect some mayo in the filler neck, especially in the winter months if used for a lot of short journeys.
Longer use, getting thething good and hot and using it often sorts it out.
And in no way shape or form is it anywhere near needing a HG.

Change the oil check the stat etc as Anders says, then go drive it and enjoy it.

Even in the absolute worst case senario, doing a HG on one of those is easy as, well, doing a HG can be!

But I very much doubt the HG is on it's way if the only sign is mayo, it's rare to come across an XU that doesn't have some. Although if it has a garlic taste about it, you should probably worry!

EDIT: ER, if you pulled the shaft out and no oil came out at all, I'd be worried about that. IIRC the filler / level plug is on the side of the box in much the same place as a 2WD unit, although it's been years since I've actually seen one in the metal.... so dont quote me on that.
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Far too many BX's, a bus, an ambulance a few trucks, not enough time and never enough cash...
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Post by cxprestigeauto »

Thanks for the reassurance.

I was not getting too worried just yet but the bloke who gave me the car said it used a bit of water (as witnessed by low level in radiator).

Still no rush for that yet. Will get the car legal and then do some trial runs before jumping to too many conclusions.

What is the cam belt like? Can I trust the HBOL?

This week will be the exhaust and the gearbox oil. The dipstick in the transfer box reads nice and high and clean :D but I have suspicions about the gearbox and rear diff.

Still progress is being made.

Rob
Last edited by cxprestigeauto on Mon Jun 16, 2008 9:41 pm, edited 1 time in total.
CX 25 IE Pallas auto 1985
Banham Sprint Kit Car (Frogeye Sprite)
Renault Modus 1.5 106 dci (Company Car)
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Post by docchevron »

Cambelts are pretty easy on these, the Haynes book of myths, legends and other well known fairy tales is actually not a bad guide for cambelt's. The only real issue is slightly finnicky access to the tensioner lock nut, other than that, piss easy.
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Post by AndersDK »

As it is a 4x4 you will have an extra mess of the octopus lying around at the RHS front suspension sphere ...

Otherwise there is no difference doing the cambelt to the 2x2 variants.
Note that it is not necessary to remove the crank pulley bolt and pulley.
Simply lock both axles, then remove the plastic covers and replace belt.
If & when the belt is close to impossible to fit when tight on its long front run - you have got it just right - as all belt slack must be on the rear run where the tensioner is located.

You may "cheat" by unlocking the cam and turn it a wee bit forward to accept the belt, but the belt should be a tight fit when both axles are locked again.

NOTE : the arrow(s) on the belt has NOTHING to do with the running direction of the belt - EXCEPT if you use the belt index markers to match the engine index markers. The belt is in no way constructed for directional use.
C U / Anders - '90red16riBreak - '91GrisDolment16meteor - Project'88red19trsBreak
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Post by cxprestigeauto »

Cheers for the belt advice. Not sure whether I will do it this week. Priority is the MoT stuff and the LHM which is just HORRIBLE!

Rob
CX 25 IE Pallas auto 1985
Banham Sprint Kit Car (Frogeye Sprite)
Renault Modus 1.5 106 dci (Company Car)
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Post by cxprestigeauto »

Well, Monday is the day. Off to put four new tyres on the beast plus get the tracking sorted out, then of to see the nice MoT man :?

Hoping for a pass :!:

Still not done the belt (been building a custom trailer for a mates large inflatable Avon boat) but as soon as it is MoTed I will need to put the belt on.

My main concern for the MOT is the emissions since it is a while since the car ran any distance and the petrol is pants. I have put some fresh in and the MoT station is about 8 miles from the car so a good thrash should see her right!!!
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Renault Modus 1.5 106 dci (Company Car)
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Post by docchevron »

Best of luck mate, hope it all goes well.

Holding it in a low gear and working the engine hard for a time usually clears out a lot of crap and goes some way to lowering the emissions, as does an oil change.
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Post by cxprestigeauto »

Failed!

The rear fog light refused to work even with a new bulb! This was a bit of a surprise since I had checked all the lights a week ago and everything was fine.

Looks like a bit on an investigation will be needed (my father checked the fuse and declared it OK). Still apart from a new wiper blade the tester was happy with everything else and no retest fee so I am feeling quietly confident! Other good news was that despite one of the front tyres having a VERY bald inner edge the tracking was fine so I just had to pay for four new tyres.

PS Is the rear wiper on the estate the same as the saloon? Mine is DEAD and there is a slaoon one on Fleabay. Alternatively if anyone has a suplus estate one for sale I could be very interested!
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Renault Modus 1.5 106 dci (Company Car)
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Post by AndersDK »

The Estate wiper is special - not the same as the saloon. Because of different angles on the hatch door.

Usually its a happy litlle job trying to recover a dead rear wiper, as it will only be the axle seized by corrosion. The ohmic resistance from the long cableruns and several connections, protects the motor from burning out when it stalls.
C U / Anders - '90red16riBreak - '91GrisDolment16meteor - Project'88red19trsBreak
dead cars : '89white 16RS - '89antrasitTRDturboEst - '90white19triBreak
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Post by cxprestigeauto »

I have taken the wiper apart and freed up all the linkages etc. The unit will spin by hand but the motor seems to be dead. There is power there but no go. Mind you with the other electrical fault at the back end I will recheck all of this. Ah the joys of auto electrics :cry:

Rob
CX 25 IE Pallas auto 1985
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Renault Modus 1.5 106 dci (Company Car)
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Post by Mike E (uk) »

I thaught my bx was using a bit of water, but I found that the little rubber O-ring under the radiator bleed screw, N/S rad corner- was perished, and just dripping a little out each day.

All my petrol BXs get some mayo in the filler cap and crankcase pipes.

I hose it all out when I do an oil change and it does not cause a problem.

Mike
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