3 BXs - only one working now

[Jaba]

Damn. I put the suspension on high today and was rewarded with a large leak from the rear suspension cylinder. Its the classic failure. LHM pees out from somewhere and drips off the rear of the housing below the sphere. Only when the suspension is on high.
My other failed BX is the TD which is pumping gas into the coolant from the head gasket or a crack in the head.

So has anyone got an estate rear strut available ?? I know I can fit a standard one or a standard Xantia one but I don't have those either.
These cars know when to play up. I am going on a booze trip to Calais next week and want the estate for its larger payload. If anyone DOES have one then I can reward you with cheap French beer if required.

What is the best approach to removing the sphere ? Do it with a laden boot and height at normal or just take the strut straight out and separate them on the bench if this is an easy thing to do ?

[Way2go]

What is the best approach to removing the sphere ? Do it with a laden boot and height at normal or just take the strut straight out and separate them on the bench if this is an easy thing to do ?

1) Car on high
2) Undo sphere slightly
3) Car on low
4) Depressurise on screw at accumulator
5) Remove sphere, disconnect pipes & remove strut.

*** Observe support and safety procedures***

[AndersDK]

1) Car on high
2) Undo sphere slightly
3) Car on low
4) Depressurise on screw at accumulator
5) Remove sphere, disconnect pipes & remove strut.

The perfect way 2 go - if there are no leaks peeing out the pressure that is
Since its more than likely the strut cylinder itself that has shot a corrosion pinhole - then its nothing better than trash anyway.
1) Undo the gaiter clip
2) pull back the gaiter from the cylinder
3) arm yourself with good Tuborg Lager - and call a friend
4) using Stilsons counterhold on the exposed cylinderneck, while normal jobbie is applied to the sphere by your friend
5) replace cylinder
6) drink beer ...

[mat_fenwick]

Unless you are very lucky it's probably a good idea to buy the short length of HP pipe leading to the strut - they always seem to be very firmly attached.
The cup shaped shrouds that protect the strut from debris also seem to trap water so I have drilled a hole in mine to allow them to drain. Time will tell if this is of any benefit...

[Way2go]

The cup shaped shrouds that protect the strut from debris also seem to trap water

Mmmh............they also hold LHM after you remove the sphere and MOT man said "leaking" at test after work was completed even though it wasn't!:? Liberal dose of brake cleaner twice followed by fast drive and passed on retest.

[Jaba]

So has anyone got an estate rear strut available ??

Anyone ?

[Jaba]

so I have drilled a hole in mine to allow them to drain. Time will tell if this is of any benefit...

That seems a very good idea Mat. Where did you drill - at that lowest point underneath sort of half way along the strut ?

[DLM]

I have a lot of used hatch rear struts, but don't think I have any estate ones. I'll check nonetheless, though the only repair I'd be 100% confident of is a pair of completely matching struts.

New struts tighten up the rear end considerably, so a pair, however expensive, is the best way to go. I know this as I had to fit a new pair to Grolliffe immediately before it came into my ownership.

[Jaba]

Dave at this stage I don't mind if I fit a hatch strut.
As far as new is concerned, this is a tired old BX that I don't really want to throw money at. I am doing that for my Hurricane at the moment so could I pop down and grab one of your old ones if you are not doing the national on Sunday ?

Actually, as far as I can see only Xantia ones are available new from the likes of GSF @ around £75. Do you know if these are really a direct replacement apart from modding the pipe connection - i.e. does the BX gaiter and push rod fit.

[mat_fenwick]

That seems a very good idea Mat. Where did you drill - at that lowest point underneath sort of half way along the strut ?

Yes, you are right. I had a pit at the time so I would guess the job is slightly more difficult without...

My struts had a 'tide mark' where water/mud had been sitting and the aluminium had corroded in preference to the steel of the shroud. Above the mark they were relatively pristine. I also coated the new struts with Dinitrol to give some extra protection.

[ken newbold]

I know I have a virtually brand new one, however, it's problem was, it was passing a fair amount of LHM through the return pipe.

It looks like it had been on a shelf for a very long time and developed a tiny rust spot on the piston, then of course the first time it gets used, the rust spot damages the seals in the cylinder body.

If you could replace the seals it would make a good-un.

If you're really stuck, you could put in on as it is, at least it would get you up and running. I'll have a look at it in the morning and report back.

[DLM]

I'm unfortunately nowhere near the parts pile now for the next week: nor will I be at the national (prior engagement), so can't help on that timescale. Sorry, hope I didn't raise hopes too much.

[Jaba]

I know I have a virtually brand new one.
I'll have a look at it in the morning and report back.

Any update Ken ??

[Jaba]

I have a lot of used hatch rear struts, but don't think I have any estate ones. I'll check nonetheless.

I am happy to fit a hatch strut if you have a useable spare. Let me know if you can still help.

[AndersDK]

Ahhh Jaba, I just noticed

Only when the suspension is on high

Do you mean on really maximum high setting ... ?
- or what DO you actually mean ?
If there is no leak in normal drive position ...
... then its NOT the cylinder that is failing

This is because the complete inner area of the cylinder is constantly under suspension pressure - no matter whic height you have selcted.

Its the piston that moves in the cylinder - and it moves on the fixed seal in the inner cylinder wall.

Then it must be the piston that has an imperfection allowing pressurised leaks at high setting ...

... OR ....

the piston rod has dislodged
- a quite common problem on BX'es.

The rod dislodges, if the balljoint gets dry and is exposed to working pressure.
You can assure the problem by pressing and feeling outside on the bellow.
The rod is the same for hatch & estate cylinders, and can be replaced without removing the complete cylinder.
However you still need to fight with that dreaded S-lock pin that secures the balljoint to the suspension arm.