Starter motor confusion

AdrianO · Post by **AdrianO** » Mon Jul 14, 2008 8:42 pm

Starter motor on my 1.6 Meteor no longer responding to the hammer-tap tip. Decided to replace the starter motor.

I have a Bosch recon job from GSF down the road. It's labeled 0.85kW, which I make 1.14HP. According to Anders' post here http://www.bxclub.co.uk/forum/viewtopic ... motor+type on motor ratings, 1.1HP min is required for diesels and 0.8HP (0.67kW) for petrols. So maybe it seems I have been given a diesel starter?

Presumably a higher rated starter would pull more current, which could affect starting ability (if the battery is not fully charged), and perhaps the life of the battery?

The GSF chap said "Bring it back if it doesn't fit". OK, I thought, let's suck it and see. Haynes says 5 bolts to undo. For the life of me I can only see 4 = 3 biggish hexbit bolts + 1 standard bolt at the front connecting thru the starter and the metal hydraulic spaghetti thingy. Should I be looking for #5 at all?

The replacement part in any case has only 3 holes - odd. How to refasten the hydraulic component?

I have 2 hex bolts off. The 3rd has temporarily stopped the show. There is only about 1-2cm clearance away from the clutch mechanism. OK, off with the quadrant, I guess. But I am wondering - can the 3rd motor bolt be removed without taking off the clutch quadrant?

jeremy · Post by **jeremy** » Mon Jul 14, 2008 9:24 pm

The current consumed by a motor is dependant on the load on that motor.

As you probably know motors and dynamo's have much in common - and once the thing is turning it generates current (the back EMF - electro-motive force). This partially balances the input current - so that faster the motor rotates - the less current it consumes. This is why motors often fail when operated with an almost discharged battery - especially if they can't rotate the engine continuously.

stuart_hedges · Post by **stuart_hedges** » Mon Jul 14, 2008 10:28 pm

Awesome - you have my tent as your avatar!

May I suggest "Stays up all night long" as a custom title?

Post by **docchevron** » Tue Jul 15, 2008 2:51 am

Indeed, just how many times did Jon rub that in over the weekend!!!

Ok, yes, remove the quadrant.
Three bolts....check..

Where to put the HP pipe tag? Easy, move the clip along the pipe so you can shove the starter bolt nearest the block through it and into the starter.

It matters not whether it's a diesel / petrol motor, they are all (fit wise) interchangable and all do the same job.

AdrianO · Post by **AdrianO** » Tue Jul 15, 2008 10:21 pm

Thnx for that. Things went better after chucking out all the ducting and rubber. Mr Haynes - that's THREE bolts ONLY

Made me think how a deteriorating starter motor might also help finish off an old battery if winter runs aren't long enough to recharge it.

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » Tue Jul 15, 2008 11:40 pm

Most models have in fact a bracket located on front of the starter. This bracket is fixed on the engine block with 2ea 8mm (13mm head) bolts.
The bracket is fixed on the starter motor by the longbolts through the starter body and their end nuts.

This bracket is NOT included on new or recon starter units. Therefore it was missing on your old unit, which also is most likely a replacement unit - by the age of the car.

If you look carefully - you will find the 2 8mm threaded holes in the engine block at end of the starter motor. They are spaced approx 100mm apart on a vertical line.
The bracket is intended to minimise vibration in the starter motor, thus preventing stress to the mounting flange.

Post by **docchevron** » Wed Jul 16, 2008 4:14 am

Interesting.
I've only ever seen this bracket on D6C's..

Diesels dont have the castings in the block for the extra bracket, but I guess al the alloy petrol blocks do?

So, all petrol starters had the pesky bracket?