Clutch?

toddao · Post by **toddao** » Fri Sep 05, 2008 6:38 pm

Recently it's become increasingly hard to engage reverse gear and today it took the next step - it's become a grinding, noisy experience, along with all the other gears. They all 'stick' in place now and need to be forced out and into the next one.
It's too late to look today but I was hoping for some pointers with this one. When my foot was down on the clutch for reverse just now it was making a slight whining sound.
I haven't checked the pedal adjustment or whether the cable is stretched etc.
Any ideas/experience appreciated. Cheers!

Way2go · Post by **Way2go** » Fri Sep 05, 2008 6:47 pm

It definitely sounds to be a clutch on the way out or related components.

Kitch · Post by **Kitch** » Fri Sep 05, 2008 6:51 pm

Sounsd like the clutch is worn, although our estate had a similar issue and I removed some sound proofing form under the carpet to give it more travel

I've also heard that the arms fracture and distort, giving a lack of clutch effort, but thats only obvious if your pedal has dropped in height.

We resorted to turning it off, selecting reverse and switching it back on again with the clutch engaged

toddao · Post by **toddao** » Sat Sep 06, 2008 1:45 pm

Thanks for replies. I'm bracing myself for the inevitable..

Does anyone know if there was a variation in Clutch and cable design between the first and second series of 1.9D BX? And is the clutch exclusive to the diesel variant or the same as the 19 petrol models?

Also, what tooling will I need apart from a device for centring the clutch? Once I start I won't be mobile, so want to make sure I'm tooled up for removing the gearbox/ ancilleries.

And is it advisable to change the Octopus once the gear-box is out? Anything else? Questions, questions..

Cheers

Ian_Fearn · Post by **Ian_Fearn** » Mon Sep 08, 2008 9:57 pm

Todd, having just finished changing the clutch and octopus on the TD i'd say the only special tool you could do with is a clutch alignment tool. If you buy a Valeo clutch they come with a tool

You dont need the gearbox out by any means to change the Octopus but access is better with the drivers side (RHD car) driveshaft removed so in your case the passenger side.

The Octopus is a swine of a job but the clutch change is easy. I lifted the box out and back in on my own with the aid of a trolley jack. 2 jacks help, one to drop the engine down on and the other to support the box.

ken newbold · Post by **ken newbold** » Mon Sep 08, 2008 11:53 pm

Mmm, afraid I 'd have to disagree with you there Ian, give me the Octopus to do over a clutch change any day.

Kevin B · Post by **Kevin B** » Tue Sep 09, 2008 10:07 am

If you do end up needing a clutch, you might like to consider replacing the rear main bearing oil seal on the engine, and also the clutch input shaft oil seal.
Also as your vehicle has the pivot type of release fork (instead of the cross shaft version fitted to 16v and TD versions), srutinise the condition of the lever where it pivots on the ball, as this wears if the grease has dried out (however be uber careful if you remove the operating fork as you can break the plastic cup away from the fork very easily, I know I've done it myself).
Also the output shaft oil seals are easy to replace when the gear box is out.
Also if your feeling adventurous remove the end cover on the gearbox prior to making a start, as the nuts on the ends of the main and layshaft are known to be suseptable to working loose (admitedly more common to see this on 16v and TD versions). Replacement nuts are cheap, but if loose nuts have caused fretting you will have spline wear, the most economical solution will be to replace with s/h parts if its bad spline wear.

Ian_Fearn · Post by **Ian_Fearn** » Tue Sep 09, 2008 4:34 pm

ken newbold wrote:Mmm, afraid I 'd have to disagree with you there Ian, give me the Octopus to do over a clutch change any day.

NO WAY KEN!!!!

The Octopus is horrible

Maybe we need to do a skills sharing exercise

mountainmanUK · Post by **mountainmanUK** » Tue Sep 09, 2008 4:50 pm

I think I've got to agree with Ken here. Doing a clutch, especially on a Turbodeisel, is guaranteed to be hard work, even if everything goes reasonably smooth! Even using an engine crane/hoist, there is still a fair amount of "hutching & thrutching" to be done!

In comparison, swapping an Octopus is much less physically taxing, especially if the underside of the car is pretty clean! Lying flattish on your back is infinitely preferable to leaning over a wing into an engine bay!!

Ask anyone with a bad back which job they would prefer!

Dave

ken newbold · Post by **ken newbold** » Tue Sep 09, 2008 8:57 pm

How did you know I have a bad back

mountainmanUK · Post by **mountainmanUK** » Tue Sep 09, 2008 11:47 pm

ken newbold wrote:How did you know I have a bad back

Just a good guess, Ken......and a fair assumption for anyone who has done their own repair work on a BX for any longish period of time!

toddao · Post by **toddao** » Thu Sep 11, 2008 2:31 pm

Well, thanks everyone. And apologies for delayed response but I went sniffing around the French scrappers with two other members of the club ( needs a separate thread ).

I'm particularly overwhelmed by that kind offer Jon - cheers mate! What is there so terrible lurking down your local pub? Is it like that place in Withnail & I or American Werewolf?

Good news is that it's not the clutch, or the cable but as El Pres suggested

look at the lever arm to see if it's bending. If it is, fit a new lever arm 96134964, or reinforce the old one by way of welding.

Not so easy to find these lever arms. It's been ordered from France and will come tomorrow..

When it is the dreaded Clutch, I will come slipping gears across the continent to your door Jon!

ken newbold · Post by **ken newbold** » Thu Sep 11, 2008 4:16 pm

Wish you'd have said about the arm, they're growing wild round here!