I FOUND IT !!!!!!!!

[Roger]

Thanks fellas, it was good to get some feedback on where citron hides things. ( I have two )
They are both up the creek, so I have to replace them, so I shall do the easy way cut off the harness and reposition the horn in a place where they can be got at, in the future,( thanks for that idea, its a good one. )
as we live in the middle of nowhere, and
constantlt have to swerve around rabbits, deer, phesants etc, they seem to haver a death wish up here, I think I might fit some rather loud air horns.
Do any of you have any diagrams showing the known rust spots, please please dont sent a picture of the whole car, at the moment I cant find any rust anywhere, so I am planning to wax oil all the known areas.
Also has anyone got any suggertions as to what is the best oil to use, bearing in mind that she is a diesal. As oils have improved since my days in the trade.
Thanks again for all your help with suggestions for the squeeks, ten stopped, 6 to follow.
Roger

[Philip Chidlow]

I don't know about diagrams but there's been quite a bit of stuff on this forum over the years about rust.

I'll suggest some 'well-known' spots:

Inner wings, front, near the VIN plate/paint code area... depending on which model it is, it will either be apparent of obscured. But they nearly all go there.

Rear boot floor.

Rearmost exhaust hanger.

Rear part of sills where they meet the rear arch.

The inner rear wing... difficult to get to (anyone got a best method suggestion?)

Around the filler cap.

'A' pillars - especially if the windscreen's been replaced by monkeys. (Well, glass is better - you know what I mean!)

Foot of the 'B' Pillar.

Front part of inner sunroof. (Open it up and have a look - sometimes it's a rusty mess)...

And that's all I can think of for now...

Oh, hang on. Pipework - fuel line as well as hydraulics.

Front subframe.

Rear suspension generally... (help me out here: specifics? I've been lucky in this department)...

[jonathan_dyane]

Also has anyone got any suggertions as to what is the best oil to use, bearing in mind that she is a diesal. As oils have improved since my days in the trade.
Roger

Although some favour synthetic oils, I personally stick by any Diesel-specific 15/40 or 10/40 mineral oil. Millers XFE is excellent.

[DLM]

If it's an estate: forget the boot floor and rear boot floor lip tests for rust (unless you've been very unlucky), but DO check the underside and inner sides of the sills NOW, particularly from the middle to the rear end of the sills. If you can't get to look at the inner area around the end of the sills and into the rear wheelarch, stick a digital camera underneath and flash away.

A specific estate rust point is inside the passenger-side inner rear wing, behind the rear wheel arch and just where the rear bumper has its forward attachment. Rust'through is possible here, and should be sorted out, but is not structural unless very severe.

Look all around the hinges for the rear tailgate, and clear out any muck in the water drainage channels while doing so.

The boot floor, though dismissed above, can be seen from underneath, and by removing the boot carpet.

Look at the inner wing seams under the bonnet all the way up, and don't be surprised to find some rust in them. Get them sorted ASAP.

Oil - if a diesel, straightforward mineral 15w/40 and I wouldn't personally worry too much if it's fairly cheap (e.g. Carplan) - XUD engines just need to be fed with something of this spec regularly to keep them happy. Use the Purflu/Lautrette oil filters if at all poss as I've been told they hold oil better so there's no oil starvation or flow delay on startup.

[Terry]

So pleased you've had a complete recovery.

Does Sheila know?

[Jayboy]

A couple more that spring instantly to mind are the bulkhead trough where the washer bottles sit (more common on the right than the left), you'll need to remove the bottles to check.

Also another common spot can only be found by removing the bumpers. There is a hollow crossmember across the width of the car which the bumper bolts to from the top. This applies to the front of all models, and the rear of saloons. This can be seriously rotten even iif the rest of the car appears mint as I recenty discovered on one of my fleet!

Good luck!

[mat_fenwick]

Apologies if this has already been mentioned and I've missed it (I'm knackered!) but the A pillar seam above the front door hinges is common. Also the front seam of the rear wings, inside the rear door shuts at the bottom. Is that enough to be going on with? Hopefully your work will just be preventative...