Coolant leak

jwthwaites96 · Post by **jwthwaites96** » Sat Nov 01, 2008 1:35 pm

hi guy's,
this is on a 1.9D TZD, the pipe returning from the oil cooler to the radiator has a large hole in it, not a crack but a circular hole in it caused by a bolt off another part. this pipe though, does not go directly to the radiator it connects to a T junction that then goes to the rad and a thick pipe goes behind the engine. to change the pipe with the hole do i have to change the whole thing including the T junction and pipe behind engine or does it just come out of the T junction?
If it is not able to come out of the T junction what does everone think to cutting it off and getting a internal connector to connect a new pipe to the old pipe. Does anyone know where I could get one of these connectors from or how i could make one? Would have to be jubileed on as it is under radiator pressure.
If anyone has encountered this before or has any suggestions it would be much appreciated.
thankyou.
J

jonathan_dyane · Post by **jonathan_dyane** » Sat Nov 01, 2008 2:03 pm

For this type of situation, I usually use a couple of inches of domestic copper piping of suitable diameter

Post by **mat_fenwick** » Sat Nov 01, 2008 3:27 pm

I've done the same...it may help the rubber pipe to grip if you get hold of a solder ring fitting used to join 2 pipes togther (like the one at the top of this link). Then cut one in half and solder one half to each end of the copper pipe.

DavidRutherford · Post by **DavidRutherford** » Sat Nov 01, 2008 3:48 pm

Alternatively, just about any motor factor I've known keeps a collection of plastic pipe fittings from about washer-hose size up to main radiator hose size. Usually these include a straight connector in them, so you could just cut the hose at the damage and then re-join it.

Way2go · Post by **Way2go** » Sat Nov 01, 2008 3:58 pm

mat_fenwick wrote:I've done the same...it may help the rubber pipe to grip if you get hold of a solder ring fitting used to join 2 pipes togther (like the one at the top of this link). Then cut one in half and solder one half to each end of the copper pipe.

True, but probably easier, cleaner & cheaper to solder 'compression olives' just after each end of the pipe for the same benefit. (You need to use separate flux & solder after cleaning) This is then more secure because it is still all the same pipe.

Post by **docchevron** » Sat Nov 01, 2008 6:46 pm

Or, you could just get a new bottom hose with T piece pipe attached.
I do believe GSF still stock them Part No. N17912
I think they're about £20.

Post by **mat_fenwick** » Sat Nov 01, 2008 11:25 pm

Way2go wrote:True, but probably easier, cleaner & cheaper to solder compression olives

Ah, I hadn't thought of that! But, at the moment I am too

to even type properly so I don't care that your idea is better!

Way2go · Post by **Way2go** » Sat Nov 01, 2008 11:36 pm

mat_fenwick wrote: Ah, I hadn't thought of that! But, at the moment I am too to even type properly so I don't care that your idea is better!

Team effort mate!

It's a case of one idea leading to another showing the benefits of forum 'discussion' .

maxgreenwood · Post by **maxgreenwood** » Sun Nov 02, 2008 8:29 pm

they're 17.50 from gsf.

N17912 RAD HOSE BOTTOM BX DIESEL (WITH T PIECE) BOTTOM 17.50

I got one by mistake for my TD TZD, sitting here in a cupboard..
i could get a quote on postage for you?

jwthwaites96 · Post by **jwthwaites96** » Thu Nov 06, 2008 8:51 am

PM sent to maxgreenwood,
cheers for the help