Front anti roll bar drop links.

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Aerodynamica
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Front anti roll bar drop links.

Post by Aerodynamica »

These rattled

So I found a pair on ebay from a seller but each had a different part number. I asked the seller about this and about postage to be combined (each was a seperate listing)

In the mean time I'd tried Euro car parts - not in stock but next day - they wanted £18 + vat, Next tried GSF - £15 + vat, better and they had them in stock. Went down and picked them up - best bit I asked for my discount and lo, off it comes! £13 + the vodka+tonic. Pretty chuffed at that!

Fitting yesterday evening: Was this exciting job going to be a time consuming pain in the ass?
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RH link out - 20 mins

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old and new - seem to match!

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fitting the new RH

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DONE! - another 25 mins or so

One side done in less than an hour!

I had planned to just do one side given the time and usual problems encountered- but the RH one was so quick to do that I thought I'd crock on with the LH

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Even quicker - the whole task in around 35 mins..

Even had time to go for a quick spin to try them out - sweet as a nut.

Even had time to adjust the auto choke that was stopping the second carb choke from opening - done and dusted.
Graeme M

CX 2400 Pallas LPG
2CV6 dolly (SORNed)
Mk1 Xantia 1.9TD SX

'c'est hydropneumatique'
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mnde
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Post by mnde »

Damn you Graeme, that's a job well done & nice pics too! You're doing well with the new acquisition - if only I had the workshop, tools and spare time...

Alas I'm going to have to give in and book the BX in at my local friendly specialist to have the wheel bearing done, as the G really ought to be retired for the rest of the winter...

Cheers,

Mark.
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Aerodynamica
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Post by Aerodynamica »

Just remember Mark, the BX isn't rust proof! it won't like the winter too much more than the G would! I'm keeping a close watch on the BX through winter.

I'm lucky in that I have access to a garage and have collected a fair amount of tools over the years but the only time I get to work on the cars is the odd evening - I just can't bring myself to pay for jobs at garage rates when it's something I feel I can do myself!

I also need to replace the inner track rod joints after getting the pair cheap, trouble is that having briefly looked at the BX steering rack, I wasn't too sure that the inner joints were readily accessible. On the CX they can be reached from above and from either side easily but the BX looks harder.

Anyone done the inner joints on the BX to say how much of a job it is?
Graeme M

CX 2400 Pallas LPG
2CV6 dolly (SORNed)
Mk1 Xantia 1.9TD SX

'c'est hydropneumatique'
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docchevron
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Post by docchevron »

The N/S axial joint's pretty easy as you can get to it from underneath from behind the subframe, the O/S one is a bit more fiddly, but if you get the rack in just the right place you can attack quite well again from beneath and behind the subframe.

It's ALOT easier with the rack out of the car, but it's a faff to get the rack out of a PAS BX...
Smokes lots, because enough's enough already!

Far too many BX's, a bus, an ambulance a few trucks, not enough time and never enough cash...
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mnde
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Post by mnde »

Aerodynamica wrote:Just remember Mark, the BX isn't rust proof! it won't like the winter too much more than the G would! I'm keeping a close watch on the BX through winter.
Oh don't I know it, but it 's all I've got. The BX is my modern :lol: and worth nowhere near as much as the restored G.

I've kind of missed the window of opportunity for waxoyling and attending to the underseal - it wouldn't be fun outdoors in these freezing conditions - and garages charge £300!! - so that'll have to wait for the spring or something. I'll just have to wash the underneath periodically to remove any crud and salty deposits...

Mark.
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DLM
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Post by DLM »

Looks like you were lucky with those droplinks - I've had to hacksaw a couple off before now.
Back on two wheels and pedal power for the moment.
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Post by DavidRutherford »

DLM wrote:Looks like you were lucky with those droplinks - I've had to hacksaw a couple off before now.
Likewise, although I tend to take a grinder to the nut on the top as I've yet to have one come off easily yet.
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Aerodynamica
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Post by Aerodynamica »

Looks like you were lucky with those droplinks - I've had to hacksaw a couple off before now.
-magic touch :wink:
Graeme M

CX 2400 Pallas LPG
2CV6 dolly (SORNed)
Mk1 Xantia 1.9TD SX

'c'est hydropneumatique'
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jonathan_dyane
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Post by jonathan_dyane »

mnde wrote:Damn you Graeme, that's a job well done & nice pics too! You're doing well with the new acquisition - if only I had the workshop, tools and spare time...

Alas I'm going to have to give in and book the BX in at my local friendly specialist to have the wheel bearing done, as the G really ought to be retired for the rest of the winter...

Cheers,

Mark.
Y'know Mark, if you have a balljoint splitter and socket/braker bar for the driveshaft nut, removing the hub is a straightforward undertaking. You can then take the hub assy to a local garage with a new bearing to press in; I did this the other week, which cost a princely £5...
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mnde
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1982 Citroen GSA Spécial Estate - gone to a new home
1991 Citroen BX16 TGS Meteor - still out there somewhere!

Post by mnde »

jonathan_dyane wrote:
mnde wrote:Damn you Graeme, that's a job well done & nice pics too! You're doing well with the new acquisition - if only I had the workshop, tools and spare time...

Alas I'm going to have to give in and book the BX in at my local friendly specialist to have the wheel bearing done, as the G really ought to be retired for the rest of the winter...

Cheers,

Mark.
Y'know Mark, if you have a balljoint splitter and socket/braker bar for the driveshaft nut, removing the hub is a straightforward undertaking. You can then take the hub assy to a local garage with a new bearing to press in; I did this the other week, which cost a princely £5...
Hi Jonathan, I don't have a splitter.... and spare time and good weather are at a premium at the moment, that's the prob.

Cheers,

Mark.
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