As I currently have a permanent ABS warning lamp caused by a broken cable to one of the sensors, and an upcoming MOT test, I guess I really ought to fix it.
I've got the kit to test each sensor and its associated cabling, but can anyone tell me where the computer is located? I've not got my Haynes BOL with me, and I'm hoping to sort it tonight.
Muchos Grassy Arse.
Another Bloody Safety-feature (ABS) Now with added MOT pass.
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DavidRutherford
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Another Bloody Safety-feature (ABS) Now with added MOT pass.
Last edited by DavidRutherford on Mon Dec 15, 2008 9:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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ken newbold
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It sure is, there's some info somewhere on the site that explains which pin numbers go to which sensor. it usually seems to be the o/s front, although I recently came across a N/S rear.
The fronts are easily accessed from the engine compartment, the rears from under the rear seat.
Set your test meter on Ohms and the reading should be between 800-1200 ohms if memory serves.
The fronts are easily accessed from the engine compartment, the rears from under the rear seat.
Set your test meter on Ohms and the reading should be between 800-1200 ohms if memory serves.
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Jaba
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The ABS fault finding guide is in the DIY section here : http://bxclub.co.uk/diy/abs/ all the pin outs are listed.
I find it easier to just split the four coax connectors, rears under the back seat and fronts along the bulkhead and measure them directly from the individual plug, you are looking for around 1K. You can just solder in a new piece of screened cable, not necessarily coax, to bypass the open circuit section, unless of course the actual sensor has failed.
As an aside and with reference to the ccc mag debate. A very similar and comprehensive ABS fault finding guide appeared in that very mag when Dave Woollard was running the column around 2002/3.
I find it easier to just split the four coax connectors, rears under the back seat and fronts along the bulkhead and measure them directly from the individual plug, you are looking for around 1K. You can just solder in a new piece of screened cable, not necessarily coax, to bypass the open circuit section, unless of course the actual sensor has failed.
As an aside and with reference to the ccc mag debate. A very similar and comprehensive ABS fault finding guide appeared in that very mag when Dave Woollard was running the column around 2002/3.
The Joy of BX with just one Citroën BX to my name now. Will I sing Bye Bye to my GTI or will it be Till death us do part.
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DavidRutherford
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Firstly. Thanks to Marty for the PDF, which included all the pinouts. That was brilliant, as it meant I could test all the wheel sensors from one location.
Bizzarely, both front ones were perfect at 1K each, the NSR was showing about 8K, and the OSR open circuit.
The OSR fix was easy.. splice a section of screened cable in sorted. The NSR was a bit wierd. Cut the cable as close to the sensor as I could, and measured open circuit. Que? Test it again, but with a tester that dumps 200mA into the circuit to test, and I get open circuit. Right... Test it again with something nearer an amp, and I get somewhere between 2K and 3K. Hmm... Sod it, sellotape it all back together (OK, heat shrink really) and the computer can see the wheel sensor, and all is well.
Clearly the current used through these sensors is fairly heavy, as the corrosion in the sensor cable was fairly serious, and low voltages seem to get a bit "lost" in all the high resistances.
Bizzarely, both front ones were perfect at 1K each, the NSR was showing about 8K, and the OSR open circuit.
The OSR fix was easy.. splice a section of screened cable in sorted. The NSR was a bit wierd. Cut the cable as close to the sensor as I could, and measured open circuit. Que? Test it again, but with a tester that dumps 200mA into the circuit to test, and I get open circuit. Right... Test it again with something nearer an amp, and I get somewhere between 2K and 3K. Hmm... Sod it, sellotape it all back together (OK, heat shrink really) and the computer can see the wheel sensor, and all is well.
Clearly the current used through these sensors is fairly heavy, as the corrosion in the sensor cable was fairly serious, and low voltages seem to get a bit "lost" in all the high resistances.
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DavidRutherford
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Definitely worth fixing it, as today (amazingly) I got an MOT Pass.
Possibly the tattyest roadworthy BX. No mechanical issues at all. Fast-pass on the emissions, and a comment from the tester that the brakes "almost work too well"
Damnit. That means I have to drive it for another year now.
Possibly the tattyest roadworthy BX. No mechanical issues at all. Fast-pass on the emissions, and a comment from the tester that the brakes "almost work too well"
Damnit. That means I have to drive it for another year now.
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jonathan_dyane
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