FRONT SPHERE CHANGE
- Tim Leech
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FRONT SPHERE CHANGE
Am i right in thinking that I can remove the front spheres on the TZD (i am borrowing Ians removal tool) safetly as the car hasnt been run for a couple of days and the the system has depressurised (car is sat on the deck) I put the suspenion in its lowest setting 2 days ago when I turned it off.
Jon W's how too guide makes no mention of undoing the pressure relief screw on the HP pump.
Just making sure as I dont want to impale myself on a flying sphere!
Thanks.
Jon W's how too guide makes no mention of undoing the pressure relief screw on the HP pump.
Just making sure as I dont want to impale myself on a flying sphere!
Thanks.
Lots of Motors, mostly semi broken....
- BX Bandit
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Don't know if you have to but I always have done. It's a 12mm spanner you need and easy to get to from the top on a TZD. Be prepared for oil spillage. When you fit new ones don't graunch them up tight with the removal tool, a good hand tight is enough.
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1960 Morris Minor Clarondon Grey
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- ken newbold
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If the spheres are completely flat, you may find a "back pressure" in them. Even undoing the 12mm pressure bolt will not help. Have some rags ready, loosen the spheres untill the LHM starts to ouse out, then wait! Once the pressure has dropped you will be able to unscrew them by hand.
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I've never touched the pressure relief screw when doing the fronts, as long as the car is on low for a few mins its been fine. I normally put a rag underneath the sphere as it does spew some lhm out. Am i living on borrowed time
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I wouldn't rely on the car being low to have releasedall the pressure. 1400psi.....do you wanna risk it? Won't kill you but if you breathe it in you'll wish you hadn't...atomised LHM doesn't cure what ails ya like you think it would!
Worth pointing out the screw is actually on the pressure reg Tim, and not the pump!
Release the pressure about half a turn, then prepare as you undo them....they'll probably be stiff all the way and then suddenly blow off! The LHM will probably look like Limade that's been shaken in a bottle....thats all the gas that's escaped from the sphere and created tiny bubbles in the LHM!
As Ken said, have a rag ready! Then clean the aperture, fit the new seal inside and caerfully place the sphere in and start turning. Be careful not to nick the seal! Do it up as tight as you can by hand, then I always nip them just a touch with the tool.
Fire it back up, top the LHM up and then tighten the screw and wait. Once it's raised, let it idle on high for about 10-15mins.
Thats how I always do it anyway!
Worth pointing out the screw is actually on the pressure reg Tim, and not the pump!
Release the pressure about half a turn, then prepare as you undo them....they'll probably be stiff all the way and then suddenly blow off! The LHM will probably look like Limade that's been shaken in a bottle....thats all the gas that's escaped from the sphere and created tiny bubbles in the LHM!
As Ken said, have a rag ready! Then clean the aperture, fit the new seal inside and caerfully place the sphere in and start turning. Be careful not to nick the seal! Do it up as tight as you can by hand, then I always nip them just a touch with the tool.
Fire it back up, top the LHM up and then tighten the screw and wait. Once it's raised, let it idle on high for about 10-15mins.
Thats how I always do it anyway!
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- jonathan_dyane
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Also, having just changed my LHM and having the inevitable cut to finger due to the radiator core, I feel I should point out that the PR pressure bolt is a tad inaccessable, I usually use the left hand from above, under the air trunking and top hose while sighting down by the air intake to see what I'm doing.
Oh, and do change the LHM too. Mine was like goats piss with added silt...
Oh, and do change the LHM too. Mine was like goats piss with added silt...
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- Tim Leech
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Well that was easy , and Feck me its a different car now, i "cracked" the spheres with the regulator done up but they were only handtight so I slowly undid them, there was no resistance and no drama,
Fitted the new ones, got the seal wonky on one first time so it pissed LHM everywhere but thats all sorted now. Stop light keeps coming on due to the amount I lose so will limp it into work tomrorow and put a litre in, the fluid itself is nice and clean.
Quite chuffed!
Fitted the new ones, got the seal wonky on one first time so it pissed LHM everywhere but thats all sorted now. Stop light keeps coming on due to the amount I lose so will limp it into work tomrorow and put a litre in, the fluid itself is nice and clean.
Quite chuffed!
Lots of Motors, mostly semi broken....
How can you all work on your cars at this time of the year?!
It's -8° Celsius here, I won't do one step outside unless I absolutely have to...
It's -8° Celsius here, I won't do one step outside unless I absolutely have to...
Carl
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---
Parts needed:
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Please contact me through PN if you have any of this.
1989 TRD "Entreprise" Turbo Diesel
1989 16 Valve
---
Parts needed:
- One black leather headrest.
- FDV overhaul kit (95.669.034)
Please contact me through PN if you have any of this.
- Tim Leech
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It was quite mild last night, my garage is long enough for me to have the SD1 in it and just get the front end of the BX in to shield me from the rain.
Drove her to work today and im very pleased, it rides very well, although it sounds like theres a worn bush or droplink on big potholes you can here a slight "thud" Having an oil change and fitting my good part worn 185/s today.
Drove her to work today and im very pleased, it rides very well, although it sounds like theres a worn bush or droplink on big potholes you can here a slight "thud" Having an oil change and fitting my good part worn 185/s today.
Lots of Motors, mostly semi broken....
- Aerodynamica
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Just for future reference folks, you don't need to release the 12mm screw to do a sphere job - just put the height lever on low. Only for the accumulator do you need to release the pressure.
There's a good practice you can do for rears if you can be bothered - have the rear end on axle stands with the wheels hanging, crack the spheres in high suspension, put it on low and when the pressure's all gone unwind the spheres. New seal and with a bucket under each side you have an assistant move the height lever from low to normal or intermediate and the LHM starts to fill the rear cylinders and piss out the hole. As this is going on you wind the new spheres in and the leaking LHM self primes and purges all trapped air (a rear change always traps air that bleeding the brakes will not remove due to the height of the trapped bubble). Under pressure the bubble will reduce to a tiny little dot but it's nice to have a way that totally eliminates trapped air. Obviously, have a litre or so of new LHM to top up after - this also renews the LHM in the rear pipes.
^this only works if your accumulator is good though ^
There's a good practice you can do for rears if you can be bothered - have the rear end on axle stands with the wheels hanging, crack the spheres in high suspension, put it on low and when the pressure's all gone unwind the spheres. New seal and with a bucket under each side you have an assistant move the height lever from low to normal or intermediate and the LHM starts to fill the rear cylinders and piss out the hole. As this is going on you wind the new spheres in and the leaking LHM self primes and purges all trapped air (a rear change always traps air that bleeding the brakes will not remove due to the height of the trapped bubble). Under pressure the bubble will reduce to a tiny little dot but it's nice to have a way that totally eliminates trapped air. Obviously, have a litre or so of new LHM to top up after - this also renews the LHM in the rear pipes.
^this only works if your accumulator is good though ^
Graeme M
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'c'est hydropneumatique'
CX 2400 Pallas LPG
2CV6 dolly (SORNed)
Mk1 Xantia 1.9TD SX
'c'est hydropneumatique'