i started the head gasket change today but i have a few questions about the way haynes is guiding me
i have got to the stage where you remove the valve cover and haynes now says to completely remove all the fuel injector lines and returns. do i need to do this or can i get away with just disconecting the injectors?
do people remove the turbo with the head and manifold or leave it in situ?
haynes say to reuse the cylinder head bolts, as they are stretch bolts should i get new ones?
will valve clearances need reset after the head has been skimmed or will the use of a repair gasket suffice?
thanks
procedure question for head gasket experts
I took the fuel injector lines away but left the returns there. I was advised to use new bolts as they're not a huge investment - I paid €25.
Also get new cam oil seals and get the head pressure tested. It might not have over-heated but I neglected this stage to my cost. Don't know about turbo ancilleries or best procedure with valve clearances. I didn't check mine as I didn't disturb them - other fellas will know better.
Good that you've cracked into it straight away - I take it that you've got some inside work area, either that or it's a bit warmer on the tropical island! Good luck
Also get new cam oil seals and get the head pressure tested. It might not have over-heated but I neglected this stage to my cost. Don't know about turbo ancilleries or best procedure with valve clearances. I didn't check mine as I didn't disturb them - other fellas will know better.
Good that you've cracked into it straight away - I take it that you've got some inside work area, either that or it's a bit warmer on the tropical island! Good luck
Todd
this yellow writing is really hard to read
this yellow writing is really hard to read
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DLM
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I've only ever removed a non-turbo head and not replaced one, but - until your expert comes along - you do need a new set of bolts. Old stretch bolts are fit for the bin only. I'm assuming you're talking about a TD turbo here, though you don't say it anywhere?
Nearly everything in Haynes is based around procedures for Mk 1and early mark 2 BXs - hence their reuse-the-bolts advice.
Nearly everything in Haynes is based around procedures for Mk 1and early mark 2 BXs - hence their reuse-the-bolts advice.
Back on two wheels and pedal power for the moment.
street work ftw, it was a balmy 6 degrees outside newcastle today.
the car is a 1.7 td.
my hope that as the valves wont be disturbed then all should be ok.
i think i will remove and flush the rad while i'm on the job, then i can be sure the cooling system is all ok as i replaced all the other essentials in april.
thanks
the car is a 1.7 td.
my hope that as the valves wont be disturbed then all should be ok.
i think i will remove and flush the rad while i'm on the job, then i can be sure the cooling system is all ok as i replaced all the other essentials in april.
thanks
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docchevron
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Ok, you can leave the injectors in the head, and leave the return pipes on, but the metal HP pipes will need to be removed complete.
Stretch bolts stretch by definition, they need to, once they've been torqued I'd never re-use one, although I know people that have.
There actually is a measurment for the bolt, if it's within tolerance you can re-use it, but for the sake of £15 or less for new ones why take the risk of having to do the job again soon?
Personally, if you've gone to the trouble of taking the head off, I'd get it pressure tested, skimmed and have the valve seats re-cut and shimmed at the same time.
Any half decent machine shop wont charge much on top for doing said.
Yes, the head will come off with the manifolds attached, but it makes it heavy to lift. But it's personal preference really.
I usually leave the manifolds on when removing a head, and refit them before plonking the head back on the block.
One other point, clean the face of the block before the head goes back on. A light rub with emery paper will do the job nicely.
Stretch bolts stretch by definition, they need to, once they've been torqued I'd never re-use one, although I know people that have.
There actually is a measurment for the bolt, if it's within tolerance you can re-use it, but for the sake of £15 or less for new ones why take the risk of having to do the job again soon?
Personally, if you've gone to the trouble of taking the head off, I'd get it pressure tested, skimmed and have the valve seats re-cut and shimmed at the same time.
Any half decent machine shop wont charge much on top for doing said.
Yes, the head will come off with the manifolds attached, but it makes it heavy to lift. But it's personal preference really.
I usually leave the manifolds on when removing a head, and refit them before plonking the head back on the block.
One other point, clean the face of the block before the head goes back on. A light rub with emery paper will do the job nicely.
Smokes lots, because enough's enough already!
Far too many BX's, a bus, an ambulance a few trucks, not enough time and never enough cash...
Far too many BX's, a bus, an ambulance a few trucks, not enough time and never enough cash...
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mat_fenwick
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One more tip...keep one of the old head bolts, cut the Torx head off it and cut a screwdriver slot in the end. Now you have a second locating 'dowel' to stop the head sliding back on the face of the block.
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DavidRutherford
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My "standard" work when I take a TD head off:
Head off, leave the turbo and manifolds behind.
Skim head (should be under £30 "for cash")
Wash head thoroughly.
Valves out, Grind back in.
Shim valve clearances (often they are in tolerance)
Glowplugs out, check, replace as necessary.
Clean all mating faces. Clean face of block with a sharp wood chisel, and then with very fine emery paper.
Fit turbo & both manifolds to head. (do NOT lose the turbo line filter!)
Head back on.
Put everything else back, including a new cambelt & water pump. New gaskets everywhere (especially the cam cover).
I usually fire the engine up on the oil that was in the sump, and run it on just water for half an hour or so, and then change the oil & filter, and put fresh coolant mix in after a thorough flush.
I often do re-use head bolts, but only where I know the engine has not been overheated. If the head has been heavily overheated, then the aluminum expanding more than the steel head bolts can stretch them massively (so much in one case they were actually loose afterwards!) If you know the engine has not been overheated, then you're most likely OK to re-use the bolts. That said, as Doc mentions above, for £15 you do get peace of mind. Either way, you must be sure that the threads in the block are completely clean, and that the bolts are not only clean, but also the threads and under the head of the bolt are lightly greased. Doing so means you will get a better reading on the initial torque setting, and it will be easier to wind them the 220 further degrees needed. (IIRC)
It may also be worth doing the piston protrusion test as mentioned in Haynes. In general, most people just fit the thickest gasket, but I've had a couple of engines that needed a thinner one, and I've no doubt ran better for having the correct one in there. Some motor factors tell you that the thickest one is the only one available. Not true: All thicknesses are available if you ask the supplier for it!
Most difficult part of the job is fart-arsing around behind the engine trying to get the manifolds off, and then reconnecting everything back there afterwards. The actual head work is quite easy.
Head off, leave the turbo and manifolds behind.
Skim head (should be under £30 "for cash")
Wash head thoroughly.
Valves out, Grind back in.
Shim valve clearances (often they are in tolerance)
Glowplugs out, check, replace as necessary.
Clean all mating faces. Clean face of block with a sharp wood chisel, and then with very fine emery paper.
Fit turbo & both manifolds to head. (do NOT lose the turbo line filter!)
Head back on.
Put everything else back, including a new cambelt & water pump. New gaskets everywhere (especially the cam cover).
I usually fire the engine up on the oil that was in the sump, and run it on just water for half an hour or so, and then change the oil & filter, and put fresh coolant mix in after a thorough flush.
I often do re-use head bolts, but only where I know the engine has not been overheated. If the head has been heavily overheated, then the aluminum expanding more than the steel head bolts can stretch them massively (so much in one case they were actually loose afterwards!) If you know the engine has not been overheated, then you're most likely OK to re-use the bolts. That said, as Doc mentions above, for £15 you do get peace of mind. Either way, you must be sure that the threads in the block are completely clean, and that the bolts are not only clean, but also the threads and under the head of the bolt are lightly greased. Doing so means you will get a better reading on the initial torque setting, and it will be easier to wind them the 220 further degrees needed. (IIRC)
It may also be worth doing the piston protrusion test as mentioned in Haynes. In general, most people just fit the thickest gasket, but I've had a couple of engines that needed a thinner one, and I've no doubt ran better for having the correct one in there. Some motor factors tell you that the thickest one is the only one available. Not true: All thicknesses are available if you ask the supplier for it!
Most difficult part of the job is fart-arsing around behind the engine trying to get the manifolds off, and then reconnecting everything back there afterwards. The actual head work is quite easy.
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