tzi ignition fault

Post by **docchevron** » Mon Jan 19, 2009 12:23 am

Nah, it changes to top at about 40 with a light throttle IIRC.
It's been a while since I drove it.

It's not hard to adjust the upchange points to almost any roadspeed really, but it's a tad pointless lowering the upchange too much in a TD as it changes up out of the torque band. Up changing and keeping a bit of boost on gives the thing quite a turn of pace without having to rag it like.

Dads set it the way he likes it, and it makes it a nice lazy drive when your pottering about and quite a weapon when the go pedal is provoked into anger!

Way2go · Post by **Way2go** » Mon Jan 19, 2009 12:36 am

docchevron1472 wrote: It's not hard to adjust the upchange points to almost any roadspeed really

How do you do that?

velosolex50 · Post by **velosolex50** » Mon Jan 19, 2009 8:23 pm

Just read the Phoenix thread..Gasp!
Chapeau!!!!!!!!
Huw

Post by **docchevron** » Tue Jan 20, 2009 2:39 am

Way2go wrote:
docchevron1472 wrote: It's not hard to adjust the upchange points to almost any roadspeed really
How do you do that?

Well, you can arse around with the kick down cable, and how it operates on it's cam, that has a huge effect, but it's a bodge since it just screws arouns with the line pressure in the box.

The proper way to do it would involve dropping the sump, removing the valve chest and getting friendly with a local spring manufacturer!

Post by **docchevron** » Tue Jan 20, 2009 2:40 am

velosolex50 wrote:Just read the Phoenix thread..Gasp!

Yes, it was a rather long thread wasn't it!
9 pages of some piccies and lots of waffle!

Way2go · Post by **Way2go** » Tue Jan 20, 2009 2:47 am

docchevron1472 wrote:
Way2go wrote:
docchevron1472 wrote: It's not hard to adjust the upchange points to almost any roadspeed really
How do you do that?
Well, you can arse around with the kick down cable, and how it operates on it's cam, that has a huge effect, but it's a bodge since it just screws arouns with the line pressure in the box.

The proper way to do it would involve dropping the sump, removing the valve chest and getting friendly with a local spring manufacturer!

There's a fine line between complicated and hard then?

Post by **docchevron** » Tue Jan 20, 2009 2:53 am

T'aint complicated or hard to drop the valve chest out of a 4HP, they're REALLY DIY friendly.

velosolex50 · Post by **velosolex50** » Tue Jan 20, 2009 7:18 pm

Previous bad experience after faffing around with a triumph stag auto box has deterred me from fiddling with the kickdown cable....backing it right off caused the clutches & bands to wear out due to reduced pressure in the operating mechanism (I was assured of this by the auto specialist who fixed it afterwards!) If there is knowledge out there about what extent of adjustment is safe, I'd be very interested to try it. It seems very difficult to get much info on the citroen autobox.

Post by **docchevron** » Wed Jan 21, 2009 1:39 am

In short, theres VERY little scope for the kickdown cable, it has to be right.
Dad has the relevant settings I'm sure. I did have them, but like everything else I've long since lost them!

I'll post 'em up when I get hold of them, unless dad see's this first in which case I'm sure he'll oblige.

Geoffrey Gould · Post by **Geoffrey Gould** » Sat Jan 24, 2009 12:40 pm

Hi sorry about the delay I had all the information written down in a safe place, so of course couldn't find it.
These are for the Bosch pump.
First of all there is a measurement that is important because if it is wrong it will upset All the others. It is not unknown for the ferule on the kick down cable to be in the wrong place, as supplied from Z/F. So pull the cable out past the kick down point as far as it will go and measure the distance from the end of the outer (threaded bit) to the ferule it should be 54mm, a Very small allowance for cable stretch is OK.(1mm). If it is wrong then either de-crimp it and move it or remove it and replace it, a piece of brake pipe slotted to go over the cable then crimped works.
Injection pump timing.
0.57mm BTDC or 8 degrees. pump piston lift 0.30mm.

Idling speed (if it will.) 800/850.rpm.
Fast idle 1150/1250.

Anti stall 50rpm above idling.

Max governed speed (no load) 5100/5200.

Kick down cable.
engine hot. etc.
slacken the 2 nuts on the threaded portion of the outer cable.
take up the slack in the cable so that there is 1/2 to 1mm clearance between the ferule and the end of the cable outer..
depress the accelerator pedal to and not past the kick down point . the measurement to the ferule from the cable outer should be 39mm.
full throttle the measurement should be 47mm.
If this is wrong then it can be adjusted by moving the end of the cable inner in the slot in the throttle arm on the pump.
Thats part 1.

Geoff.

Geoffrey Gould · Post by **Geoffrey Gould** » Sat Jan 24, 2009 1:33 pm

Hi all. OK that gives you the general idea, this is just to tidy up a few bits and pieces to try and prevent you from going round in circles.
It can sometimes be difficult to get the tick over where it should be, I have noticed that there can be a rough patch of vibration where the tick over should be and it can be a bit of a compromise , too low and when it is in gear then the revs are only just OK until the lights/heater/and rear screen etc. are on and the extra load makes it a bit 'staggery'. So try to allow for that. The following is looking from the front of the car .
Slacken the throttle cable off and at the rear face of the pump ( the side between the pump and engine block) there is a screw about 2" long with a 10mm locking nut, it lies horizontally ,parallel with the face of the pump. slacken this off so it no longer contacts the throttle arm. This is NOT the maximum RPM screw.
This is the anti-stall screw and is sometimes mistakenly used as a tick over adjustment.
Tick over adjustment.
Same side of the pump not far from the mounting flange there is a small lever shaped like an inverted capital 'T' this controls the tick over and is adjusted by 2 vertical screws locked with 10mm nuts. Going to this lever may be a cable from the cold start waxstat mounted on the thermostat housing. It is rare that this unit works, most have been disconnected.
This lever should be spring loaded to pull the top of the lever to the left, to the tick over stop. but can sometimes be semi seized, a dose of WD40 and a wiggle back and fullwords is called for.
When the (hot) tick over has been set (don't forget the lock nuts.)then it's time for the Anti-stall to be done. Obtain a feeler gauge, piece of plastic or what ever 1mm thick that can be slid in between the end of the screw and the throttle arm, it's the one that you slackened off at the begining and have probably forgotten by now,well I would have. Put the plastic or what ever in place and screw in the screw to open the throttle by 50 RPM above tick over. I usually do this by ear. Stop engine ,lock off screw, make sure it is because the screw will make a bit for freedom if you don't. Remove plastic.
I know I have made a fuss about the adjustments but if you have to re-adjust the tick over this upsets the anti stall adjustment which alters the position of the throttle arm which upsets the kick down cable adjustment.
That is what I meant about going round in circles.
Just trying to cover most things and sorry if it seems if I have been trying to teach people to suck eggs.
If I have managed to confuse you then yell.
Cheers.
Geoff.

Geoffrey Gould · Post by **Geoffrey Gould** » Sat Jan 24, 2009 2:42 pm

Hi I did add a bit of info. but it seems to have disappeared somewhere. I have settings for the Lucas/cav pumps and petrol injection. The brake band setting and valve chest torques require a calibrated torque wrench reading from 5 lbs. upwards. A good one is not cheap.
Cheers.
Geoff.

velosolex50 · Post by **velosolex50** » Sat Jan 24, 2009 6:01 pm

Interesting info on the auto settings, will pursue when the car is running again!
Finally good weather + daylight. Got the coil off, its got several cracks in the casing, so likely to be the culprit, despite resistances measuring up ok. Over £140 from Citroen, so a quick visit to ebay I think. Will let you know if it works.
Huw

velosolex50 · Post by **velosolex50** » Sun Feb 01, 2009 6:53 pm

Got a replacement coil from GSF on ebay..........still no good

. Ordered a new ig module today. Will let you all know.

Geoffrey Gould · Post by **Geoffrey Gould** » Mon Feb 02, 2009 8:18 pm

Hi that's a bit of a sod about the coil but I guess that at least you have taken care of a problem that would have happened if your original coil had cracks in it. It takes a bit of time but all the connectors under and around the battery tray and all the others that you can reach, can give problems because they tend to corrode no matter what you do, take them apart and a good clean with isopropyl alcohol or servisol 10 cleaner. white spirit or meths at a push. Pack with vaseline and secure with a tie clip. This can save many problems. Check the wiring to the coil pack very carefully.
All the best.
Cheers.
Geoff.

BX Club Forum

tzi ignition fault

Adjustments.

Part 2 to above.

Auto box data.