Hi,
Have recently purchased a BX19TXD estate, having been without a cit for a few years it feels great to be back in the fold.
What i am after is a rear wing front edge protector for the nearside if anybody out there has one at all in white!!
bx wing edge
bx wing edge
Scott Blackman, BX19TXD Break, JAGUAR XJS V12
BX WING EDGE
Yeah, that sounds great thanks, nearside one.
Look forward to hearing from you.
Look forward to hearing from you.
Scott Blackman, BX19TXD Break, JAGUAR XJS V12
-
DLM
- Our Trim Guru
- Posts: 1620
- Joined: Mon May 16, 2005 6:41 pm
- Location: Gosport, Hampshire, UK
- My Cars: Historically, lots of BX hatches/estates in the 90s/00s - 16/19i/17td/19d
Recent scruffy diesel n/a estate - "The Red Shed" - is no longer mine. - x 9
Sadly, it's from the offside. Sorry to have got your hopes up.
There is a pair of grey ones somewhere from a TGD hatch, but they're pitted and quite worn, one is cracked, and they're overall larger in size so may not match . The estate one is marked "Heuliez" inside, the others not.
In the unlikely event that you come across a suitable one in a scrapyard, the removal method I've used a couple of times now is below. Hot water will probably help loosen the adhesive pads holding the protector in place, but it's unlikely to be close at hand (unless you can return armed with a large thermos flask!).
(i) g-e-n-t-l-y insert something thin but blunt and as broad-bladed as will fit under the gap at the rear end of the protector ( blade horizontal, insert under the vertical trailing edge). A butter-spreader or round-bladed table knife comes to mind...
(ii) You may feel a spongy resistance, which is the double-sided adhesive pad holding the protector in place. From now on it's suck-it-and-see. Most likely you can start to insert the blade between protector and pad, (though the other side may prove better), and the next stage gets risky.
(iii) Once you've inserted the blade as far as a to-and-fro motion allows, then v-e-r-y g-e-n-t-l-y lever away from the car body, applying sustained but light pressure. This is the time you'll find if the thing wants to move at all. If it doesn't, then damage may well ensue.
(iv) Assuming the protector/pad does want to unstick, progressively move the blade further under and continue, but make sure you're only levering from a point close-in to the bit that's still adhering. It might be the case you could get a slim cable tie or similar underneath and start a side-to-side sawing motion against the still-stuck pad, but I haven't tried that method yet.
(v) Continue until you achieve success, or you fail! You may find that the upper edge of the protector starts to pull away, which gives extra opportunity for careful leverage from different directions. The lower edge, being lipped, will probably break if you lever vertically upwards, so avoid this (didn't think of this when mentioning the cable tie..).
Some come easily, others just won't unstick at all. The same general principles apply for removing body trim trips and badges, should you really want to.
There is a pair of grey ones somewhere from a TGD hatch, but they're pitted and quite worn, one is cracked, and they're overall larger in size so may not match . The estate one is marked "Heuliez" inside, the others not.
In the unlikely event that you come across a suitable one in a scrapyard, the removal method I've used a couple of times now is below. Hot water will probably help loosen the adhesive pads holding the protector in place, but it's unlikely to be close at hand (unless you can return armed with a large thermos flask!).
(i) g-e-n-t-l-y insert something thin but blunt and as broad-bladed as will fit under the gap at the rear end of the protector ( blade horizontal, insert under the vertical trailing edge). A butter-spreader or round-bladed table knife comes to mind...
(ii) You may feel a spongy resistance, which is the double-sided adhesive pad holding the protector in place. From now on it's suck-it-and-see. Most likely you can start to insert the blade between protector and pad, (though the other side may prove better), and the next stage gets risky.
(iii) Once you've inserted the blade as far as a to-and-fro motion allows, then v-e-r-y g-e-n-t-l-y lever away from the car body, applying sustained but light pressure. This is the time you'll find if the thing wants to move at all. If it doesn't, then damage may well ensue.
(iv) Assuming the protector/pad does want to unstick, progressively move the blade further under and continue, but make sure you're only levering from a point close-in to the bit that's still adhering. It might be the case you could get a slim cable tie or similar underneath and start a side-to-side sawing motion against the still-stuck pad, but I haven't tried that method yet.
(v) Continue until you achieve success, or you fail! You may find that the upper edge of the protector starts to pull away, which gives extra opportunity for careful leverage from different directions. The lower edge, being lipped, will probably break if you lever vertically upwards, so avoid this (didn't think of this when mentioning the cable tie..).
Some come easily, others just won't unstick at all. The same general principles apply for removing body trim trips and badges, should you really want to.
Back on two wheels and pedal power for the moment.