Wanted: Radiator switch

[merlyn]

Although my BX passed its MOT with very little to be done, I have been advised that I need a radiator switch ASAP as mine no longer works.
I don't know if they are model specific but if they are I need one for a Txi petrol auto. If anyone can help me out I'd be very grateful.

Thanks, Jane

[David]

Hi, Which radiator switch is it? The one that controls the fan or the one that turns the low water level light on?

If its the former your best looking for a new one as they tend to break with age.
If its the latter then why has it failed? as these are normally very reliable & normally any trouble is corrosion on the contacts.

I don't think ether switch is model specific.

[merlyn]

I'm not sure which one it is, didn't realise that there was more than one. I'll ask at the garage, I think that it will be the one that controls the fan from what they said at the garage but they seemed to think that it would be a real struggle to find a new one which is why I'm asking on here.

[citronut]

the usual one that shows up at the MOT is the fan switch, as they normally have the engine running with the car stationary for a period of time, which if the fan is not kicking in the cooling system will over heat,
then the tester usually ends up with hot coolant dripping on there head


quite often it can be sorted by just cleaning the terminals on the fan switch/sender

here is price and part No.'s from citroen for the level sensor and fan switch

Part Number Description Quantity Price excl. VAT Price incl. VAT Total incl. VAT Selection
0000130647 LEVEL DETECTOR 11.33 GBP 13.60 GBP 13.60 GBP

0000126417 TEMPERAT SWITCH 27.54 GBP 33.05 GBP 33.05 GBP

you can either do a goooogly search with thise No.'s or aim them at the likes of GSF, ignore the zeros at the beginning of each part No.,

here is one goooogly result

http://www.niparts.com/OEM/C3C188/CITROEN/126417.html

they still show as available from citroen


regards malcolm

[merlyn]

Thanks for that.

[Jaba]

The radiator temperature switch almost never fails. Its the connections to it which play up and need cleaning and remaking. I do have a new switch though if you want one at a non stealer price.

[merlyn]

The radiator temperature switch almost never fails. Its the connections to it which play up and need cleaning and remaking. I do have a new switch though if you want one at a non stealer price.

I'll speak to the guys at the garage and see if they can do it by doing the connections. If they insist that I need a new switch I will be in touch. Thanks.

[Mothman]

Also plenty on feebay but at a price.

Andy

[Tinkley]

The radiator temperature switch almost never fails. Its the connections to it which play up and need cleaning and remaking. I do have a new switch though if you want one at a non stealer price.

Well maybe, but I have had two switches fail NOT the wiring or connections. The killer was the one with seized fan, blown fuse, and switch, engine was OK and warning lights worked fine. The easy test is short the switch with a loop of wire with a couple of spade ends. I have one made for this very purpose....

Not sure if related but no problems with old 1.4 (150C), both failures with 171 B2C 1.6 units.

[citronut]

Well maybe, but I have had two switches fail NOT the wiring or connections.

yes i agree the switch's can an do fail

short the switch

me thinks this should be short the plug terminals, not the switch

regards malcolm

[Tinkley]

Oops, thanks Malcolm, exactly that. There are three spade females in the connector and the 'loop' (test wire) with 2 male ends needs to bypass the switch (temperature thermostat) and make the circuit. Dead easy to test as when you have the circuit 'live' the fan starts when you turn the ignition switch to initial 'live' position ie warning lights on, visible on dash. If you don't get it to work with one set of possibles at the three way connector, just try the other positions - just make sure you turn the ignition off first!. Unless the circuit is itself dead, one combination will work. If I remember right, one terminal position is a no brainer from the connections but the other is harder to work out, but an either or jobbie.

[citronut]

also mind what you short the pins with, if the likes of locking wire, this can glow like an electric heater element, and yoou will burn your fingers

regards malcolm

[rutter123]

You can just cut the 3pin plug off and replace with 3 6mm insulated terminals, the plug terminals were very corroded on my tzd causing no cooling fan due to no rubber boot, simple job take 5 mins gives you a chance to clean the pins on the switch too.