URGENT!!! Clutch release lever & pivot shaft! SOLVED!
After further investigation, I have come up with a theory regarding these partially threaded pins!
Having now removed the one I was trying to get off, with an angle-grinder, the secret of the threaded bit is revealed!
The pin itself is smooth for the length which fills the hole in the shaft and lever collar. When gently tapped home the tip of the pin protrudes just the correct amount to avoid fouling on the bellhousing outer web, when the clutch lever is moved. The threaded part only starts from the "fully fitted" position to the outer end of the pin.
My assumption is that the threaded portion has been added, to facilitate removal by using a nut and spacer on the threaded bit. As the nut is tightened...the pin will be drawn back out of the hole! Magic, eh?
Does this make sense to you, David??
Having now removed the one I was trying to get off, with an angle-grinder, the secret of the threaded bit is revealed!
The pin itself is smooth for the length which fills the hole in the shaft and lever collar. When gently tapped home the tip of the pin protrudes just the correct amount to avoid fouling on the bellhousing outer web, when the clutch lever is moved. The threaded part only starts from the "fully fitted" position to the outer end of the pin.
My assumption is that the threaded portion has been added, to facilitate removal by using a nut and spacer on the threaded bit. As the nut is tightened...the pin will be drawn back out of the hole! Magic, eh?
Does this make sense to you, David??
- DavidRutherford
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Ah! I did wonder if I was going mad... I was sure that I'd seen plain pins on 1.7TD push-type BE gearboxes.... and evidently I had.mountainmanUK wrote:The pin itself is smooth for the length which fills the hole in the shaft and lever collar. When gently tapped home the tip of the pin protrudes just the correct amount to avoid fouling on the bellhousing outer web, when the clutch lever is moved. The threaded part only starts from the "fully fitted" position to the outer end of the pin.
The one in my garage is still being a pain, but being as it's on a scrap bellhousing, I'm going to shatter the aluminium casting so that I can get the arm and lever in the vice to beat seven shades of $hit out of the pin.
Dave.... I will get it to you as soon as I can. Next day postage won't be too expensive I'm sure.
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- docchevron
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Your a scholar of the hammer sir!DavidRutherford wrote: I'm going to shatter the aluminium casting so that I can get the arm and lever in the vice to beat seven shades of $hit out of the pin.
I'm merely an amatuer! I just like hitting stuff with hammers!
Smokes lots, because enough's enough already!
Far too many BX's, a bus, an ambulance a few trucks, not enough time and never enough cash...
Far too many BX's, a bus, an ambulance a few trucks, not enough time and never enough cash...
DavidRutherford wrote
Have you tried doing some 'selective' removal of the bellhousing web. to allow you to gain access to the TIP of the pin? I have a feeling that it will probably knock out OK.....IF access can be gained to the 'back' end of the pin.
The trouble is that in normal position it is virtually impossible to gain access to that end, so you can't hit it with anything! I reckon that's the reason Citroen came up with the threaded end modification, to allow removal!
David!
There is now no need for any rush!
Thanks to our fine Scouse "Fettler of the 16v", Vanny, I now have a suitable shaft / lever / gearbox combination, which I will be refitting to Monica today!!
Cheers Vanny!
(Incidentally, but importantly, the release bearing forks on the ex-Xantia box are wider and shaped differently from the BX forks! To fit correctly it would be necessary to use a Xantia release bearing!! )
Cheers guys. Hopefully this information discovered whilst carrying out this job will help others in the future.
David!The one in my garage is still being a pain, but being as it's on a scrap bellhousing, I'm going to shatter the aluminium casting so that I can get the arm and lever in the vice to beat seven shades of $hit out of the pin.
Have you tried doing some 'selective' removal of the bellhousing web. to allow you to gain access to the TIP of the pin? I have a feeling that it will probably knock out OK.....IF access can be gained to the 'back' end of the pin.
The trouble is that in normal position it is virtually impossible to gain access to that end, so you can't hit it with anything! I reckon that's the reason Citroen came up with the threaded end modification, to allow removal!
David!
There is now no need for any rush!
Thanks to our fine Scouse "Fettler of the 16v", Vanny, I now have a suitable shaft / lever / gearbox combination, which I will be refitting to Monica today!!
Cheers Vanny!
(Incidentally, but importantly, the release bearing forks on the ex-Xantia box are wider and shaped differently from the BX forks! To fit correctly it would be necessary to use a Xantia release bearing!! )
Cheers guys. Hopefully this information discovered whilst carrying out this job will help others in the future.
I really don't understand those 'kin pins... had the same trouble on my mates 306 HDi (uses the BE3 box with push clutch) when we changed the clutch - I can confirm that if you try to pull the pin out using the threaded section all that happens is it shears off. Stupid design means that if you want to change the input shaft bearing you have to take the release arm out, which means getting that pin out. We did manage to drill it a bit, then applied large hammer to driveit out (easier when teh punch is down a hole and doesn't fly off all the time ). The new one though has some grooves on the edge to make sure it a) doesn't fall out in operation and b) is impossible to get out in the future . I wonder what the offical PSA advice is - cut the arm off and charge customer for new one? You can buy the pin cheaply though
PS: You need to remove the release arm from a pull clutch 'box in order to remove the 'box (assuming the clutch has not self destructed and the release bearing is still attached ) as the shaft rotates when you pull the 'box back - and it can't rotate enough with the release arm on. It's not unknown however for the (supposedly easily removable) pin in those to be corroded in, necessitating removal (on car) with an angle grinder....
PS: You need to remove the release arm from a pull clutch 'box in order to remove the 'box (assuming the clutch has not self destructed and the release bearing is still attached ) as the shaft rotates when you pull the 'box back - and it can't rotate enough with the release arm on. It's not unknown however for the (supposedly easily removable) pin in those to be corroded in, necessitating removal (on car) with an angle grinder....
I NEED a BX TD.
Righty-ho!! The car is now back running again....well, just about!
New clutch, replacement gearbox (Pug 306TD variety!), new clutch cable.
Everything done except the octopus, as I decided not to remove the full engine & box, due to time and family constraints!
Even managed to not damage any pipework during the job, although I came damned close to snapping that litle plastic return pipe that runs over the top of the box!
I still need to replace a couple of jubilee clips and properly bleed the cooling system (I took out the rad for better access), and just need to tweak the front height corrector a touch, as I finally got around to lowering the front end a bit, but overdid it!!
Half an hour in the morning should see her right!!
Thanks to everyone who helped, in some way, large or small, me to get these jobs done. In no particular order....... Billy (Cavmad), Vanny, David Rutherford (good advice), Stewart (Oily!), and anyone else I've forgotten! You are all stars!
Oh, nearly forgot to mention....I now have a new instrument pod with proper gauges....just need to wire in the oil pressure and level. Water temp gauge is working fine, a heck of a lot better than the yellow/red "death" light!
Monica should now be OK for a little trip down to Stratford at the end of the month!!
New clutch, replacement gearbox (Pug 306TD variety!), new clutch cable.
Everything done except the octopus, as I decided not to remove the full engine & box, due to time and family constraints!
Even managed to not damage any pipework during the job, although I came damned close to snapping that litle plastic return pipe that runs over the top of the box!
I still need to replace a couple of jubilee clips and properly bleed the cooling system (I took out the rad for better access), and just need to tweak the front height corrector a touch, as I finally got around to lowering the front end a bit, but overdid it!!
Half an hour in the morning should see her right!!
Thanks to everyone who helped, in some way, large or small, me to get these jobs done. In no particular order....... Billy (Cavmad), Vanny, David Rutherford (good advice), Stewart (Oily!), and anyone else I've forgotten! You are all stars!
Oh, nearly forgot to mention....I now have a new instrument pod with proper gauges....just need to wire in the oil pressure and level. Water temp gauge is working fine, a heck of a lot better than the yellow/red "death" light!
Monica should now be OK for a little trip down to Stratford at the end of the month!!
- DavidRutherford
- BX Digit man!
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- Joined: Wed May 18, 2005 5:07 pm
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Glad you've sorted it.
Out of sheer interest, I went and twatted the bellhousing I have anyway. 3 fairly hefty clouts with a 4lb clubhammer saw a large chunk missing and the release lever in my hand.
The pin moved on the first belt too. Came apart in seconds. Had I used a punch on the back of the pin it would have come out anyway. Never mind.
*Available if anyone needs them. Clutch release lever, shaft and pin. Cheap-to-free*
Out of sheer interest, I went and twatted the bellhousing I have anyway. 3 fairly hefty clouts with a 4lb clubhammer saw a large chunk missing and the release lever in my hand.
The pin moved on the first belt too. Came apart in seconds. Had I used a punch on the back of the pin it would have come out anyway. Never mind.
*Available if anyone needs them. Clutch release lever, shaft and pin. Cheap-to-free*
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Yep, that was my findings too!Had I used a punch on the back of the pin it would have come out anyway. Never mind.
Trouble is, with it all still attached to the bellhousing, it's darn near impossible to get a punch on to the back end of that pin.
Methinks my theory concerning the addition of the threaded portion, to 'draw' the pin out from the front, seems to be holding water!
Bet you had fun smashing that bellhousing David? Very therapeutic....hammer wielding with little regard to final result!
BTW......you can still order the Lever/Shaft/Pin Assembly from Citroen main stealers!! P/number: RP2115 25. Price: £44-61 + VAT
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Threaded pin.
Sorry gents have just caught up with this. I have come across this before with a box, there is a special tool (Citroen of course) which is like a slide hammer and is threaded to fit the pin. The pin was bl++dy tight , a 4lb lumpy and a punch sorted it eventually.
Cheers.
Geoff.
Cheers.
Geoff.
1991 BX 1-7 td Auto.
I MAY NOT BE ALWAYS RIGHT BUT I AM
NEVER WRONG.
I MAY NOT BE ALWAYS RIGHT BUT I AM
NEVER WRONG.
- docchevron
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Re: Threaded pin.
only 4lbGeoffrey Gould wrote:a 4lb lumpy
Good god man, if your going to hit something, hit it with something worth swinging!!
Smokes lots, because enough's enough already!
Far too many BX's, a bus, an ambulance a few trucks, not enough time and never enough cash...
Far too many BX's, a bus, an ambulance a few trucks, not enough time and never enough cash...