FREE BX DIESEL

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kermit the frog
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Post by kermit the frog » Mon Dec 03, 2007 9:03 pm

Yep

me i did that when i did my rear arm bearing's about three years ago.
absolutely the best thing i ever did.

Regards Kermit :)
ALAN S an oracle of knowledge sadly missed by us all RIP Mate
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Blue Streak 1996(P) XANTIA VSX TD (130K.)

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MULLEY
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Post by MULLEY » Mon Dec 03, 2007 9:08 pm

Dont suppose you could kindly explain how to go about doing this, i've only got 3 cars which need rear arm bearings doing :lol:

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docchevron
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Post by docchevron » Tue Dec 04, 2007 12:02 am

Plug holes in the wheel baring end of the arm.
When fitting new bearings cut a small slot in the plastic spacer tube that sits between the two inner bearing faces.
Drill hole in bottom of arm tube. Tap hole. Screw grease nipple in.
Fit arm to car, have a good pump with a grease gun.
Grease / heavy oil mix works best.
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Post by MULLEY » Tue Dec 04, 2007 12:08 am

Cheers for the info Doc.

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Post by Brian » Tue Dec 04, 2007 3:22 pm

Hi Doc,
Interested in the method of plugging the void, what material have you used, and how was it held in place?. Expandafoam springs to mind.

There is a method of luricating the rear arm bearings in-situ, and it is worth doing if they are in good condition. I think it was Bob Smith who produced the thread, but I can't seem to locate it at the moment.

Anyway, this is one that has the grease nipple fitted, waiting for the bearings etc.

The distance from the edge of the arm to the nipple should be 30mm +/- 1mm.

Image

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kermit the frog
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Post by kermit the frog » Tue Dec 04, 2007 5:52 pm

Yes thats the place.
i was going to post a reply to your post Mulley but my computer desided of it's own accord to crash just as i was about to post my reply
:?
But I think the DOC and Brian Have more than covered it. 8)
Fill it full of grease as the doc say's and a couple of pumps every few months and" Roberts your mothers brother".
The removal and refitting proceedure is covered in the haynes manual section 10
If you haven't got one the ISBN No is 1 85010 905 2.
The Citroen Diesel engine haynes manual is ISBN 1 85010 379 8
Very usefull.
Most good book shops should be able to get you one.

good luck and sorry i didnt answer last night BL***Y C**p***RS
AAAAAAAAHHHHH!
Regards Kermit :)
ALAN S an oracle of knowledge sadly missed by us all RIP Mate
Green Hornet well I don't really know.GS project gone to pastures new
Blue Streak 1996(P) XANTIA VSX TD (130K.)

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docchevron
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Post by docchevron » Wed Dec 05, 2007 2:21 am

Brian wrote:Hi Doc,
Interested in the method of plugging the void, what material have you used, and how was it held in place?. Expandafoam springs to mind.
Slightley confuserised so I am!

Er, there's two machining holes in wheel bearing end of the arm, one top, one bottom.
I use grommits in said holes, fitted with some silicone to plug the holes.

The plastic sleeve does a wonderful job of sealing the bearings, so with a slot cut in it, it allows grease / oil to fully penetrate the bearings.
Hence the whole arm is filled with grease / oil.

Thats how I do it anyhow.
Plaiedes do something very similar, but they fill the arms with heavy oil.
IMHO heavy oil is better than grease since it's now well known how grease tends to draw moisture into the bearings.

Just fitting the nipple will undoubtedly be enough though, anything with nipples is good! :lol: :wink:
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DavidRutherford
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Post by DavidRutherford » Wed Dec 05, 2007 2:09 pm

Ah! there is a different approach being taken by two different people here.

The plastic tube separates the bearings from the rest of the void of the trailing arm. You can either cut a hole in this plastic, and fill the entire arm with grease/oil, or if you fit the grease nipple where shown in the photo above, you can introduce grease/oil directly into the bearings, with the plastic tube intact and preventing the grease from filling the void.

In theory, if you were to pump enough grease into one end bearing, it would travel along between the plastic tube and the steel spacer tube, and eventually end up in the other end bearing, but I would think it's easier just to fit another grease nipple for the other bearing.

Either way, it's got to be far better than the original setup where once the bearing goes dry it's scrap.
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Post by Brian » Wed Dec 05, 2007 5:17 pm

Aha...

Right. I have just had a good look at my spare rear arm, can only find one hole into the void to the outside world, and that is on the underside where the wheel spindle is fitted. I guess there are some differences in the castings from various manufacturers.

Gosh that would be a lot of oil/grease to inject, before it got to the place required. Would also add to the unsprung weight - Ho hum..

So filling the void with some expandafoam, then drilling a hole in the middle of the arm, through the foam and into the plastic tube, tapping the hole fitting a nipple could also be carried out insitu.

So that is 2 methods now, the 3rd was to drill a hole right through the centre of the long bolt, another at right angles in the middle of the bolt, fit a nipple at the outer end...bingo...but this method could not be carried out insitu..

Choices...

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Post by DavidRutherford » Wed Dec 05, 2007 5:56 pm

Brian wrote:the 3rd was to drill a hole right through the centre of the long bolt, another at right angles in the middle of the bolt, fit a nipple at the outer end...bingo.
All that will achieve is introducing grease between the bolt and the steel spacing sleeve. For this to work you would need to drill a hole in the spacer sleeve too, and then accurately line the hole in the bolt and the hole in the sleeve up when you assemble it all. Not easy at all. Plus there's the issue of weakening the bolt somewhat.

IMO the ideal solution is the picture that you posted above, with the grease nipple introducing grease between the outer race of the bearing and the oil seal. That way you need minimum grease for maximum effect, especially if there is one grease nipple at each end. Plus you should be able to install these in situ (although I have to say I'd rather remove the arm, fit new bearings and then grease them, as you may simply be greasing knackered bearings.)

Edit: Actually, the more I look at the picture you've posted, the more I wonder where it is introducing grease to. I would expect it to be more like 10-12mm from the end, so that you introduce grease just behind the oil seal, directly into the bearing race.....
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Post by Brian » Wed Dec 05, 2007 7:41 pm

David Wrote:
Edit: Actually, the more I look at the picture you've posted, the more I wonder where it is introducing grease to. I would expect it to be more like 10-12mm from the end, so that you introduce grease just behind the oil seal, directly into the bearing race.....

Options are open to where you drill to introduce the oil/grease. One at each end would be preferable, but you have to be carefull to ensure you can get the grease gun to nipple.

30mm from the edge is bang in the middle of the smallest diameter section that the plastic tube is located.

I have used this position, as it was in the original thread, also you only need to install one nipple, as the oil/grease mix used is very fluid, and will then run to the inner bearing during use.

Found the thread:

I've just fitted grease nipples in-situ into the rear swing arms of the suspension on the BX.
Although they show the fitting to a BX, they would also apply to CX and GS as well as possibly other hydraulic type Cits and possibly Pugs.
Can't speak for sure about Pugs as I don't know for sure the type of rear suspension they have fitted but possibly it could incorporate something similar.
Cits with this type of system on them require the bearings and spacers to be fitted as a kit every few years particularly in a wet or snowy climate.
This almost eliminates the job provided that the owner gives thewm a bit of a pump of grease every year or so.
The dimension for fitting the grease nipples is approx 30 - 35mm from the outer edge of the arm and central in the area using the bolt which passes
through as the "target" in determining the central location.

Alan S.