Driveshaft woes

[DomRobinson]

I've owned an H reg TZD for a year, and its generally beyond reproach; however, with a 100 mile a day commute, thought I'd treat her to a new cambelt (done without incident or tears), and a new N/S driveshaft as the outer CV joint is tired, and that's where the trouble started. Got a remanufactured one which was 69mm from the diff-end tip to the shoulder - odd, as the old one was about 73mm. The new one leaked profusely, so got a new outer oil seal, which unlike the old one, looked like a motorcycle fork seal, replaced everything and it still leaked, so took it back to the factors and put the old one back in, which is holding oil, but still has the knackered CV joint on the end. Has anyone else had this problem or can recommend a solution?

Problem 2, the lower ball joint - the old one's not too bad, and MOT testers usually miss them anyway, but for the sake of good order, thought I'd replace the old one - How do they come out? - The brutality I've employed on this to unscrew it knows no bounds, but I cannot shift it. What's the trick? - any help, suggestions or moral support gratefully accepted.

[rmattila]

Problem 2, the lower ball joint - the old one's not too bad, and MOT testers usually miss them anyway, but for the sake of good order, thought I'd replace the old one - How do they come out? - The brutality I've employed on this to unscrew it knows no bounds, but I cannot shift it. What's the trick? - any help, suggestions or moral support gratefully accepted.

I usually do it that way to save the special socket.

[DomRobinson]

Thanks for that. Brilliant pictures, and extreme brutality!! I am inspired..

[philhod]

I made a Y shaped tool for removing btm joints, but you have to make sure you COMPLETELY un peened the locking collar. it's usually peened in 2 places

[Defender110]

I usually do it that way to save the special socket.

Excellent pictorial rmattila, thank you. I hope you have them for all the problems we may encounter on our BX's

[toddao]

What Philhod says about the locking tabs/collar is most important and often overlooked. Bend them out of the way and get the whole hub in a vice with a breaker bar on the socket drive and it turns quite easily and there's no need for 'violence' at all.

[philhod]

The shaped tool I made is like about 2ft long 1/2" x 3/4" bar, then another piece of 1/2" x 3/8" bent into a U the hard way, the internal dims of which are 1/2" wider than the joint.
The open ends are drilled about 3/8" in from the end, 1/4" dia at one side and 4.5 mm at the other to tap 6mm.
Once done the long bit is welded to the btm of the U and the shank of a broken 1/4 drill tapped in protruding 3/16" inside and welded.
A hard 6mm screw (the ones with a square head) can then be screwed into the other side.
Again once the tabs are unpeened this tool can locate into the slots and easily unscrew in situ, making it a stress free 25 minute job.
T is easier to actually burn the whole shape from a piece of 1/2" plate as I did, if you have the gear.