Fuel gauge and handbrake

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Dollywobbler
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Fuel gauge and handbrake

Post by Dollywobbler »

Two seemingly unlinked issues, but they both involve a dashboard, so I've bunged them into one thread.

The fuel gauge doesn't work on the Mk1. Well, occasionally, it sort of bounces up to where it should be. Briefly. My guess is that the sender is borked. So, how do I go about solving that issue? Do I have to drop the tank?

Secondly, the handbrake warning light only seems to illuminate when the handbrake is off rather than on. Well, it once lit up when the handbrake was on but generally, it'll flicker on and off while I'm driving. Presume there's a switch on the lever that I can have a fiddle with? Or disconnect... The handbrake does seem to release cleanly.
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rmattila
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Re: Fuel gauge and handbrake

Post by rmattila »

Dollywobbler wrote:The fuel gauge doesn't work on the Mk1. Well, occasionally, it sort of bounces up to where it should be. Briefly. My guess is that the sender is borked. So, how do I go about solving that issue? Do I have to drop the tank?
Just lift the rear seat. The sender unit is below the round plastic cover in the foreground of the picture:

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Post by Dollywobbler »

Perfect! Thanks. Can they be ungunked and made to work or do I just need to buy a new one?
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rmattila
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Post by rmattila »

Depends on the failure mode. I keep one two spare ones that I can quickly fix in position in case of troubles, and then take my time off the critical path to go through the removed one. Usually they can be fixed.
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Post by kiwi »

The problem with the fuel sender may well not be where the connector plugs it but in the actual fuel tank unit.

It is a simple job of unscrewing and remoing the metal cylinder that drops into the fuel tank.......However most likely you need to replace that unit if you can source one.

*********BEWARE OF PETROL VAPOURS AND EXECRCISE SAFETY IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA WITH FIRE PROTECTION ON HAND***********

That means no smoking, naked flames (including women) or sources of ignition (disconect battery).
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Post by mat_fenwick »

We might be able to have a look at it on Tuesday, I have a spare. IIRC it wasn't working perfectly, a bit jerky but usable.

That's assuming we have time inbetween collecting the tailgate, changing the accumulator sphere etc.... :lol:
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Post by Discoil »

Our car had been in for some welding on the sills and the tank needed removing . From then on the fuel gauge was working like a yo-yo. Finally got around to looking at the problem and found the electrical connector was barely fitted on the tank.
A few months later and the gauge did not work again . I knew what to do this time :?

I know, I know.
Any way if it happens again , I'll cable tie it on !!!!!
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rmattila
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Post by rmattila »

kiwi wrote:*********BEWARE OF PETROL VAPOURS AND EXECRCISE SAFETY IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA WITH FIRE PROTECTION ON HAND***********
In my experience, that's usually not a big issue with an RD.
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Post by philhod »

What he said :lol: :lol: diesel is a bit hard to light.

The handbrake switch is under the center console.
There are only 2 10mm nuts/bolt holding that in place.
Bolt front (under plastic cap) nut rear
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Post by kiwi »

philhod wrote:What he said :lol: :lol: diesel is a bit hard to light.
Wanna bet :wink:

And yes my reply was overly cautious as I failed to see the RD in the signature.

Which brings up the thought that the fault could be related to fungus growth in the fuel.
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Post by docchevron »

nearly always is on a diesel, especially if it's been sat around with a low tank for a while...

Diesel's pretty hard to ignite, compared to petrol anyhow, or the local curry houses vindaloo!
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Dollywobbler
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Post by Dollywobbler »

Thanks. Hoping it isn't all full of fungus but won't know until I look!
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Post by Dollywobbler »

Just been out to fix these two problems.

Fuel gauge sender - I reckon it was gunked up. Removed by unscrewing the plastic threaded ring and then I could pull the unit out. Bent out the two metal tabs that hold the plastic cover at the bottom off. Quite sludgy inside. Didn't look like fungal sludge thankfully, and the metal cylinder itself was clean bar a covering of diesel. De-gunked it all, squirted some contact cleaner on the connections just for good measure and it seems to be reading properly. Reminding me I need to get some fuel...

Job sorted and on to the handbrake. Took a while to work out that I needed to remove the little oddment tray on the rear of the centre console but with the two bolts removed and the electric windows disconnected, I could access the switch. Which is clearly broken. The plastic tabs that should hold it in place have snapped off. Someone had tried to bodge it with masking tape! FAIL! Now disconnected until I get a new switch. Hardly a priority. 2CV doesn't have a warning lamp for the handbrake and I seem to cope...

Thanks for your input!
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Post by kiwi »

You can always replace the handbrake swith with the bootlight switch :wink:
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1990 BX19 TRS 27/10/89 (Reborn)
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