Yeah, but I've done all the engines in different (smaller) engine bays, so still stand by my commentkiwi wrote:Oh great you inspired such confidence in me when you told me in the past on this very forum doing a cambelt is so easy.
Bloody hate diesel engines!!
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Re: Bloody hate diesel engines!!
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Re: Bloody hate diesel engines!!
With new belt on and the tensioner not tensioned, it is possible to get one tooth off despite all the locking pins being in. The flywheel lock is a pita, you need to be Mr Tickle to rotate the engine and push the locking pin in. If you can be arsed, dropping the starter motor makes access ALOT easier and is only 3 x 8mm Allen key bolts.Kitch wrote:Not sure which is out, but the cam and pump were locked by the bolts I put in. The crank is the iffy one, as you lock it blind anyway. In my head the only thing that can be out is the crank, but in relation to the cam and pump I didn't know how much of an impact it would have. On a petrol car, it'll still run, just lumpily!BX Bandit wrote:Work from the crankshaft, to the water pump, round the tensioner to the camshaft and then the pump sprocket. Keep the tension in the belt working in the above direction. Once fitted You should rotate the engine at least once and check for alignment before attempting to start. You shouldn't have problems, the biggy is the camshaft and crank being out.
P.s. xud is easier
And no, a 16v is definitely easier! Might not look it, but it's much more logical in design.
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Re: Bloody hate diesel engines!!
i use a bit of 6mm steel dowel about 12inches long, you can get this in the hole behind the starter without the need to remove it and just to be sure i also use a flywheel locking tool which bolts into one of the cover plate holes.
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Re: Bloody hate diesel engines!!
I must admit I drop the starter to access the hole for the flywheel pin.
I also found that you had to be very careful when fitting the new belt to get it properly tensioned between the different pulleys before tensioning - following the haynes instructions I kept finding the belt slipping off or jumping a tooth on the crank pulley. I found not having the tensioner backed completely off helped.
I also found that you had to be very careful when fitting the new belt to get it properly tensioned between the different pulleys before tensioning - following the haynes instructions I kept finding the belt slipping off or jumping a tooth on the crank pulley. I found not having the tensioner backed completely off helped.
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Re: Bloody hate diesel engines!!
I did the first belt on Timex - the only time I've done a belt on a BX. Access is absolutely horrible, but I got the job done (minus the tensioner - gave up entirely on that. Glad you got it done this time Mike!). The flywheel pin was tricky, but not impossible.
Cambelt is meant to be very easy on my new Golf, but sadly I've got to replace the front subframe as Volkswagens don't leak as much anti-corrosion juice as BXs and Minis...
Cambelt is meant to be very easy on my new Golf, but sadly I've got to replace the front subframe as Volkswagens don't leak as much anti-corrosion juice as BXs and Minis...
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Re: Bloody hate diesel engines!!
yes as above i think everyone has their own way of doing them, its a bit trial and error until you've done a few and get it timed up correctly first time.
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Re: Bloody hate diesel engines!!
did you peg the crank/flywheel,
if you look just above the crank sprocket there is a raised square block in the casting,
line the rear face of the crank woodruf key up with front face of the raised block,
this will get the crank as near as dam it to engage the locking pin into the flywheel, through the hole behind the starter,
i use a length of 3/16th copper brake pipe, then if you crank the engine before removing the pun you can still yank it out,
you must fit ALL the timing pins/pegs,
i always route the new belt starting at the cam working forward to pump then crank an so on,
as the top and front run of belt have to have no slack in, all the slack must be between the crank and cam,
( back run of belt )
regards malcolm
if you look just above the crank sprocket there is a raised square block in the casting,
line the rear face of the crank woodruf key up with front face of the raised block,
this will get the crank as near as dam it to engage the locking pin into the flywheel, through the hole behind the starter,
i use a length of 3/16th copper brake pipe, then if you crank the engine before removing the pun you can still yank it out,
you must fit ALL the timing pins/pegs,
i always route the new belt starting at the cam working forward to pump then crank an so on,
as the top and front run of belt have to have no slack in, all the slack must be between the crank and cam,
( back run of belt )
regards malcolm
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Re: Bloody hate diesel engines!!
I was thinking of a 1.6 TU from a paxo or Bertie-lingo dropped in and bobs your mothers brother right?Still like the idea of a hot 1.4 BX, that engine is just so willing!
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Re: Bloody hate diesel engines!!
Cheers Malcolm. I think I had the slack between the pump and the crank on the forward run of the belt. Better go and have another go at it!citronut wrote:did you peg the crank/flywheel,
if you look just above the crank sprocket there is a raised square block in the casting,
line the rear face of the crank woodruf key up with front face of the raised block,
this will get the crank as near as dam it to engage the locking pin into the flywheel, through the hole behind the starter,
i use a length of 3/16th copper brake pipe, then if you crank the engine before removing the pun you can still yank it out,
you must fit ALL the timing pins/pegs,
i always route the new belt starting at the cam working forward to pump then crank an so on,
as the top and front run of belt have to have no slack in, all the slack must be between the crank and cam,
( back run of belt )
regards malcolm
One third of a three-spoke BX columnist team for the Citroenian magazine.
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Re: Bloody hate diesel engines!!
Thats what it sounds like to me too, I now have made a piece of threaded M8 bar in a weird shape that goes into the flywheel hole without taking the starter off, though this might be my technique improvingKitch wrote:Cheers Malcolm. I think I had the slack between the pump and the crank on the forward run of the belt. Better go and have another go at it!citronut wrote:did you peg the crank/flywheel,
if you look just above the crank sprocket there is a raised square block in the casting,
line the rear face of the crank woodruf key up with front face of the raised block,
this will get the crank as near as dam it to engage the locking pin into the flywheel, through the hole behind the starter,
i use a length of 3/16th copper brake pipe, then if you crank the engine before removing the pun you can still yank it out,
you must fit ALL the timing pins/pegs,
i always route the new belt starting at the cam working forward to pump then crank an so on,
as the top and front run of belt have to have no slack in, all the slack must be between the crank and cam,
( back run of belt )
regards malcolm
The beatings will continue until morale improves
Re: Bloody hate diesel engines!!
yes but when you threaded bar bends over behind the flywheel, after you crank the engine before taking the bar outOilyspanner wrote:Thats what it sounds like to me too, I now have made a piece of threaded M8 bar in a weird shape that goes into the flywheel hole without taking the starter off, though this might be my technique improvingKitch wrote:Cheers Malcolm. I think I had the slack between the pump and the crank on the forward run of the belt. Better go and have another go at it!citronut wrote:did you peg the crank/flywheel,
if you look just above the crank sprocket there is a raised square block in the casting,
line the rear face of the crank woodruf key up with front face of the raised block,
this will get the crank as near as dam it to engage the locking pin into the flywheel, through the hole behind the starter,
i use a length of 3/16th copper brake pipe, then if you crank the engine before removing the pun you can still yank it out,
you must fit ALL the timing pins/pegs,
i always route the new belt starting at the cam working forward to pump then crank an so on,
as the top and front run of belt have to have no slack in, all the slack must be between the crank and cam,
( back run of belt )
regards malcolm
regards malcolm
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Re: Bloody hate diesel engines!!
I will tackle many jobs on cars but the Cam Belt on the BX Turbo (or VWLT) were both not on the list for being nasty jobs. The other advantage in ducking is if it does go wrong you have someone to moan at for a period afterwards. However it is not a cheap job to buy in as the mechanics also know its a cow. I decided to budget for out work and having read this thread I am quite pleased I did. . Blame Hans Glas, he was the first to fit rubber belts to production cars. BMW were so impressed they merged with Glas.
Is the Golf forum called Rabbit? Enjoy your NSU (No Sodding Use). Had lots before the started badging them as VW.
Is the Golf forum called Rabbit? Enjoy your NSU (No Sodding Use). Had lots before the started badging them as VW.
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Re: Bloody hate diesel engines!!
TWO teeth out on the crank. Don't think I was paying attention Friday!
I could probably do one in the 2.1hrs Autodata quotes now
I could probably do one in the 2.1hrs Autodata quotes now
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Re: Bloody hate diesel engines!!
its all easy when you know how
regards malcolm
regards malcolm
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Re: Bloody hate diesel engines!!
I also took the starter out (and the bloody clutch arm so I could get to one of the bolts!) and used an M8 bolt to lock it. Happily it runs as sweet as it did before as I was worried I'd ruin it.
One third of a three-spoke BX columnist team for the Citroenian magazine.
CCC BX registrar: The national BX register - click to submit a car!
1983(A) 16TRS (Rouge Valleunga)
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