If you can get an impact (hexagonal) socket, then 35 or 36 is no longer an issue.
Preferrably 3/4" drive and a sturdy breaker bar and short extension. Take a trip to the local scrap metal dealer or plumber and get a 6 foot length of 1 1/2" diameter water pipe. A spare axle stand to support the end of the extension at the breaker bar and the end result should look like this.
http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/attach ... 1100260730
Note:- This is sitting 180 degrees out for display purposes only. If holding the rotor is an issue, then a piece of flat steel with 2 holes drilled for wheel studs and long enough to jam on the floor is the accepted method.
Alan S
Front hub nut
- ken newbold
- Over 2k
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- Joined: Sun Aug 14, 2005 10:53 pm
- x 5
- ken newbold
- Over 2k
- Posts: 4408
- Joined: Sun Aug 14, 2005 10:53 pm
- x 5
Twas a pity really, as it had a good engine and nice box, really good interior but I'm affraid the rest of it just wasn't worth the effort.
It also caused a bit of grief at home, as were almost ready to move house and couldn't be starting to strip it down right now. so it's gone
Now back on topic.
I could also loan you my specially fashioned chiesel for knocking out the outer race of rear arm bearings.
It's a very long chiesel which is slightly bent over at one end and ground to a curve that perfectly matches the rear arm bearing outer race. One good smack with a suitable hammer and out they come.
It also caused a bit of grief at home, as were almost ready to move house and couldn't be starting to strip it down right now. so it's gone
Now back on topic.
I could also loan you my specially fashioned chiesel for knocking out the outer race of rear arm bearings.
It's a very long chiesel which is slightly bent over at one end and ground to a curve that perfectly matches the rear arm bearing outer race. One good smack with a suitable hammer and out they come.
They think it's all over, it is now!
- ken newbold
- Over 2k
- Posts: 4408
- Joined: Sun Aug 14, 2005 10:53 pm
- x 5
I have a 3/4" drive socket set with a 35 mm socket - also made up a piece of 2" x 1/2" flat bar about 4' long to hold the wheel from moving. Drilled two holes in it to line up with wheel bolts, ground out a bit of relief for the hub circle, bolted it on to the brake disk, and with a 6' piece of pipe on the 3/4" breaker bar, it was literally a two finger job to loosen the hub nuts. Because the brake rotor interferes with the flat bar on the nearside front, I bolt it up so when I crack the nut, the bar rises up under the car and stops when it contacts the body (I put a small piece of wood between them to prevent damage), on the offside, no problem as the nut loosens the same direction as the flat stock it bolted on (toward the rear). I had to do it this was as the car was up on block, no hydraulics or handbrake to use (I'm stripping the car), and no way to prevent the wheels from turning. It worked so well that I'll use it on my TZD when I need to pull the front hubs off as well - only takes a minute or so to bolt the flat stock on.
cheers,
Roscoe
1991 TZD
2004 Peugeot 307
1990 Mitsubishi Express Van - Alpaca Transporter
Roscoe
1991 TZD
2004 Peugeot 307
1990 Mitsubishi Express Van - Alpaca Transporter