Hi
I realise that I need to do the doseur valve rebuild. Does anyone have a spare that I could have so that the car isn't off the road for too long?
The write-up is awesome by the way, Cauchoiskev
Oscar
Doseur valve rebuild
Doseur valve rebuild
(Red BX 1.7TZD ("Well, it is a style icon" - Tom Sheppard)) "Was", Tom, "was"
- cauchoiskev
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Thanks Oscar,
But I'm afraid I made the mistake of forgetting that not all cars are LHD... so I'm afraid you are going to have to do the job from underneath.
As it happens, I have a spare doseur (3-piston). It has 300000km, although inside it looks as new as the one I had with 100000km. Sending from France is likely to be a bit expensive, but if no other UK based possibilities present themselves, it's yours for the price of the postage.
Kevin
But I'm afraid I made the mistake of forgetting that not all cars are LHD... so I'm afraid you are going to have to do the job from underneath.
As it happens, I have a spare doseur (3-piston). It has 300000km, although inside it looks as new as the one I had with 100000km. Sending from France is likely to be a bit expensive, but if no other UK based possibilities present themselves, it's yours for the price of the postage.
Kevin
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Is yours early enough to have the pre-changover type of doseur, Oscar? I seem to remember the changeover date was 88/89. I do have an untried old-type doseur stripped from a 19RD a few years back if that's of any use. ON a TZD you don't have to attack from below, but I guess Tom may have advised how to make the working-space from above.
While you can fit the new-type doseur, my impression is that the newer type wear more quickly than the older type (though whether this is seal wear or metal-to-metal wear I wouldn't like to say). I've had more doseur-wear problems on recent BXs than older ones, through 2 pre-88s and about 6 post-88 cars, which I appreciate isn't a perfect statistical sample....
While you can fit the new-type doseur, my impression is that the newer type wear more quickly than the older type (though whether this is seal wear or metal-to-metal wear I wouldn't like to say). I've had more doseur-wear problems on recent BXs than older ones, through 2 pre-88s and about 6 post-88 cars, which I appreciate isn't a perfect statistical sample....
Back on two wheels and pedal power for the moment.
I've just had 3 doseurs rebuild : 1 of the early 2 piston type and 2 of the later 3 piston types.
I could not recognise any mechanical/bore/piston wear what so ever.
But despite one doseur came off a car which had been running approx 2400km with hydraflush, all 3 were scaringly mucky inside
It was closer to MUD than MUCK - even the hydraflush one
This is well and truly exactly as I remembered it approx 7years ago when I last did a couple of doseurs.
The only thing that seems to help is to replace the pressure rubber O-ring - which presses the tephlon ring seal against the rearmost piston - in the rear brakes circuit of the doseur valve.
You will damage the tephlone ring when you remove it, so it must be replaced as well, but I've not yet seen a worn out tephlone ring in the doseur valve. Its always because of too little pressure from the rubber O-ring, as it is pressed flat over its service life.
Its very important to press in some LHM in the doseur innards before refitting (bicycle pump or test setup). Also remember to bleed the brakes well after a doseur valve replacing. Any airlocks in the piston circuits will make the doseur leak like it is shot internally.
I could not recognise any mechanical/bore/piston wear what so ever.
But despite one doseur came off a car which had been running approx 2400km with hydraflush, all 3 were scaringly mucky inside
It was closer to MUD than MUCK - even the hydraflush one
This is well and truly exactly as I remembered it approx 7years ago when I last did a couple of doseurs.
The only thing that seems to help is to replace the pressure rubber O-ring - which presses the tephlon ring seal against the rearmost piston - in the rear brakes circuit of the doseur valve.
You will damage the tephlone ring when you remove it, so it must be replaced as well, but I've not yet seen a worn out tephlone ring in the doseur valve. Its always because of too little pressure from the rubber O-ring, as it is pressed flat over its service life.
Its very important to press in some LHM in the doseur innards before refitting (bicycle pump or test setup). Also remember to bleed the brakes well after a doseur valve replacing. Any airlocks in the piston circuits will make the doseur leak like it is shot internally.
C U / Anders - '90red16riBreak - '91GrisDolment16meteor - Project'88red19trsBreak
dead cars : '89white 16RS - '89antrasitTRDturboEst - '90white19triBreak
dead cars : '89white 16RS - '89antrasitTRDturboEst - '90white19triBreak
- cauchoiskev
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I would agree with this. I did a 130000km 1990 one and a 300000km 1991 one and they both looked exactly the same on the inside. They were also leaking about the same amount of LHM.AndersDK wrote: I've not yet seen a worn out tephlone ring in the doseur valve. Its always because of too little pressure from the rubber O-ring, as it is pressed flat over its service life.
In other words, doseur failure is time-related rather than mileage-related, and all existing BX doseurs have already reached or passed their serviceable lifetime.
Buy your joints now !