Suspension on highest setting for dismantling
-
- Confirmed BX'er
- Posts: 27
- Joined: Sat Jan 05, 2008 7:39 pm
- Location: sheffield
Suspension on highest setting for dismantling
Evening all. Is it possible to set the suspension on its highest setting and somehow block off the pipes on all 4 corners to allow me to dismantle my written off BX. After running the engine to achieve the maximum hight I am going to start by taking the engine out and hopefully remove all the suspension and brake pipes discs and callipers. Apart from being better to work on it will make life easier for anyone that wants to take away whats left. Regards, Mick.
- docchevron
- The Immoderate half of the admin team
- Posts: 7524
- Joined: Sun Jun 04, 2006 7:03 pm
- Location: A Bucket of Fish
- x 7
- Contact:
You can in fact put the car on high, and remove the engine and gearbox and the car should stay in high.
I'm a bit confused as to how you intend to keep the car in "high" if you are going to remove the suspension and pipes though??
I'm a bit confused as to how you intend to keep the car in "high" if you are going to remove the suspension and pipes though??
Smokes lots, because enough's enough already!
Far too many BX's, a bus, an ambulance a few trucks, not enough time and never enough cash...
Far too many BX's, a bus, an ambulance a few trucks, not enough time and never enough cash...
- stuart_hedges
- 1K Away
- Posts: 1679
- Joined: Mon Oct 03, 2005 10:35 am
- Location: Surrey
-
- Confirmed BX'er
- Posts: 27
- Joined: Sat Jan 05, 2008 7:39 pm
- Location: sheffield
Keeping suspension on high.
Hi All. I just wanted to know if someone else had blocked off the pipes at each strutt when the suspension was on its highest setting to keep the pressure in. Thankyou all for stressing the importance of supporting the vehicle whilst working or even looking under any of our cars. Regards, Mick.
- DavidRutherford
- BX Digit man!
- Posts: 2706
- Joined: Wed May 18, 2005 5:07 pm
- Location: Placing comments on YouTube.
The axle stands will be needed anyway while bodging the suspension to stay up!DavidRutherford wrote:Given that you can buy a pair of axle stands for £7.99, is it really worth messing about with the hydraulics when £15.98 fixes the problem and is significantly safer?
I'm confused though, how are you going to remove the suspension and hubs etc if all the suspension is bodged in their extended positions. It all seems fraught with an unnecessary mess of LHM and you don't want it squirting in your eye either!
1991 BX19GTi Auto
- DavidRutherford
- BX Digit man!
- Posts: 2706
- Joined: Wed May 18, 2005 5:07 pm
- Location: Placing comments on YouTube.
- DLM
- Our Trim Guru
- Posts: 1620
- Joined: Mon May 16, 2005 6:41 pm
- Location: Gosport, Hampshire, UK
- My Cars: Historically, lots of BX hatches/estates in the 90s/00s - 16/19i/17td/19d
Recent scruffy diesel n/a estate - "The Red Shed" - is no longer mine. - x 9
The Baldrick plan is probably about as good as one I had recently when repairing a BX recently with a broken front strut return pipe. I had a spare strut (sans sphere mount but with good return pipe attached ) and thought:
"I'll do that thing where you replace the strut in situ by unscrewing the 36 mm bolt on the strut top to release the strut from the mount + then release from the pinchbolt at the bottom as usual. It'll save me groping around in the grime trying to fit the pipe behind the strut and the pain of doing the return pipe clip.
NOTE - car on stands - pressure released.
After loosening juicing, bringing out out the 36mm nut and some hefty leverage I spent the next 30 mins failing to shift the nut at all. Time for Plan B.
With the usual pair of pincers for the clip (essential for removal and fitting) I had the old one and the replacement off off in a few seconds, and then refitted it securely in a few more. Total time - about 30 seconds.
I'll remember this the next time I have a "clever" idea or plan.
"I'll do that thing where you replace the strut in situ by unscrewing the 36 mm bolt on the strut top to release the strut from the mount + then release from the pinchbolt at the bottom as usual. It'll save me groping around in the grime trying to fit the pipe behind the strut and the pain of doing the return pipe clip.
NOTE - car on stands - pressure released.
After loosening juicing, bringing out out the 36mm nut and some hefty leverage I spent the next 30 mins failing to shift the nut at all. Time for Plan B.
With the usual pair of pincers for the clip (essential for removal and fitting) I had the old one and the replacement off off in a few seconds, and then refitted it securely in a few more. Total time - about 30 seconds.
I'll remember this the next time I have a "clever" idea or plan.
Back on two wheels and pedal power for the moment.
-
- Confirmed BX'er
- Posts: 27
- Joined: Sat Jan 05, 2008 7:39 pm
- Location: sheffield
suspension on high
Hi All. Its all in bits now, thanks for the safety advice. Regards, Mick.