Afraid I'm running my BX into the ground

DavidRutherford · Post by **DavidRutherford** » Thu Jun 04, 2009 6:23 pm

SamWise wrote:Can a Uselessy match David's quoted consumption for the Sharan?

I suspect it won't, and never will. The reasoning behind that is that in your price range, the Uselessy (and 806/synergy) are XUD powered, so indirect injection. The Galaxy/Sharan has a Direct injection TDI engine, and so has a 15-20% efficiency benefit from the word go.

Yes, the 806/Synergy/Uselessy was available with the later HDi engine, but I still think the TDI will be more economic, and the HDI models are much newer, hence more expensive.

SamWise · Post by **SamWise** » Thu Jun 04, 2009 6:38 pm

Interesting. I'm definitely now feeling that an MPV is going to be the winner in terms of utility (will I ever own a CX? Who knows!), but which will need more investigation.

I also just discovered that the 1.4 AX diesel, the model I owned, holds the record for the most economical production car ever, running at over 100 mpg on a 1000 mile run. This tells me I've had my chips, and am not going to find anything as good, never mind better! However, now that I also know the smaller engined petrol 106s can get over 60mpg, I'm imagining the running cost of one of those with LPG......

MULLEY · Post by **MULLEY** » Thu Jun 04, 2009 8:30 pm

I've got an alternative way of spending £500, instead of replacing the BX, why dont you invest your money into a biodiesel processor & make your own homebrew. With the mileage that you do, you could probably make bio-diesel for 30p/l or less, should pay for itself in short order & you still get to run your bx

jonathan_dyane · Post by **jonathan_dyane** » Thu Jun 04, 2009 8:34 pm

If you can fit in it, the three cylinder Suzuki Swifts are also very economical; a neighbour had one for many years and did about 150 000 miles in it, and it was incredibly reliable. Surprisingly safer than the cardboard AX/106 too...

DavidRutherford · Post by **DavidRutherford** » Thu Jun 04, 2009 8:38 pm

If we're going for absurdly economic cars, look at an early 90's daihatsu charade 3-cylinder 1.0 TD. These will achieve 80mpg with minimal effort.

Don't actually move though.....

MULLEY · Post by **MULLEY** » Thu Jun 04, 2009 9:19 pm

I can't remember the last time i actually saw a charade, probably rarer than the bx

SamWise · Post by **SamWise** » Thu Jun 04, 2009 9:38 pm

In order to process biodiesel, don't you need something to process? I can't believe anyone outside Glasgow uses enough chip fat in their home for my mileage, and there's a limit to how much oilseed rape I can grow in my flower borders.

Performance is a vexed question. The car doesn't need to be as quick as my Bx, but it would be nice if it was a smidgen faster than my AX from 50 onwards that would be no bad thing!

DavidRutherford · Post by **DavidRutherford** » Thu Jun 04, 2009 10:51 pm

True, but your local friendly fast-fooderie probably has a regular supply of the stuff, and would be happy for you to take it away. Only issue is the time involved with processing veg oil into biodiesel.

If you're looking for something mid-sized, which can achieve remarkable fuel consumption without being a slow as a snail, I've often thought a Pug 309D is worth a punt. They can be very economic. Only thing is if you're looking at one of them, a BX D is equally economic, and more comfortable.

In fact, a BX 1.9D might be just the ticket. Generally they are more economic than the TD model, but can still just about hold their own in modern traffic. Get one with a Bosch pump and run a blend of veg oil / diesel fuel, and you could well be looking at a very economic arrangement.

jonathan_dyane · Post by **jonathan_dyane** » Thu Jun 04, 2009 11:00 pm

I've always shied away from making bio, as even with an automated machine you still have to handle extremely poisonous substances which are rather bad for you if you slip up. That said, after making contact with a nice bloke who loves local to me, I have been buying filtered and dewatered WVO for 40p per litre. If you have a bosch pump and make some minor alterations you can run on 100% WVO, however even at 50/50 it's a considerable saving.

cauchoiskev · Post by **cauchoiskev** » Sun Jun 07, 2009 1:33 pm

jonathan_dyane wrote: That said, after making contact with a nice bloke who loves local to me

Sounds like a nice neighbourhood

Way2go · Post by **Way2go** » Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:36 pm

cauchoiskev wrote:
jonathan_dyane wrote: That said, after making contact with a nice bloke who loves local to me

Sounds like a nice neighbourhood

It's Liverpool, "All You Need Is Love!"

jonathan_dyane · Post by **jonathan_dyane** » Sun Jun 07, 2009 9:30 pm

Way2go wrote:
cauchoiskev wrote:
jonathan_dyane wrote: That said, after making contact with a nice bloke who loves local to me

Sounds like a nice neighbourhood
It's Liverpool, "All You Need Is Love!"

Oops

, for all he is nice, he's not *that* nice; I feel that particular slip owes more to dyslexia than Freud...

DavidRutherford · Post by **DavidRutherford** » Sun Jun 07, 2009 9:39 pm

Or even just a typo, with O and I being adjacent to each other on the keyboard?

jonathan_dyane · Post by **jonathan_dyane** » Sun Jun 07, 2009 10:01 pm

DavidRutherford wrote:Or even just a typo, with O and I being adjacent to each other on the keyboard?

Indeed!

On running non-diesel products in a diesel, it is actually perhaps a rather more complicated equation than I inferred.

The Xantia I had, I ran on 100% WVO, or with 10% petrol when ambient temperatures were cold. The car always started, and although a little stumbly when cold, ran very well when warmed up. Accepted wisdom suggests that cold running can be improved by either a touch more advance, or altering the outlet banjo on the pump for one with a different sized hole.

When I scrapped the Xant, I kept the pump and injectors, intending to fit them to the engine I fit to my BX. Issues I have with doing this are as follows.

1) Having removed the Xantia (Bosch) pump, I found that the driveshaft seal is leaking. This could be down to age as much as the use of WVO, and I have manged to buy a new seal set for about 7 quid. The chances of me sucessfully replacing the pump seals are pretty good (particularly with Citrojim having an excellent online tutorial) however I feel that seals will always be on borrowed time when using high concentrations of veg.

2) Hassle. Filling up out of cans is time consuming and messy. Even if you're careful splashes end up on your coachwork, and make for a sticky and horrible build up on the side of your car which are difficult to remove. Stopping at a filling station is rather more convenient...

3) Longevity. Diesel cars can run on all sorts of shite, but they are designed to run on *Diesel*. By running high concentrations of veg, there is a risk of breakdown and excess wear due to unburnt deposits that otherwise just isn't there, And, even the mighty Bosch VE will only put up with 100% WVO for so long. There is the ever-present risk of blockages too.

4) Smell. Despite what people would have you believe, burning veg (at least WVO) does not give a pleasing odour. The smell is a sickly sweet and somewhat rank one, which makes me feel sick when driving in traffic with the roof/window open.

This said, should you have an old beater that you're not particularly arsed about, and don't mind dealing with mess, smell and the odd blockage, I'd say go for it. However, I strongly suspect that when I get my BX back on the road, I shall be fueling it exclusively with DIESEL!

Philip Chidlow · Post by **Philip Chidlow** » Mon Jun 08, 2009 10:14 am

That Peugeot 505 estate went for £1,040!

Have you considered a Renault Savanna 7/8 seater? (Sorry, I'll get me coat...)

Like this one (but maybe one that goes?!)
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/RENAULT-21-SAVANN ... 0429634622