Mk1 BX 19RD Estate RHD! A new home

Dollywobbler · Post by **Dollywobbler** » Fri Aug 19, 2011 12:06 pm

Thanks Richard. PM replied.

I want the seatbelts to be there really. 1986 is the cut-off as my 2CV is the same age, and must have the belts.

messerschmitt owner · Fri Aug 19, 2011 12:14 pm

Dollywobbler wrote:Thanks Richard. PM replied.

I want the seatbelts to be there really. 1986 is the cut-off as my 2CV is the same age, and must have the belts.

Ian, I couldn't agree more, but to get it to an MOT state, you could forgo them and refit them later. I certainly wouldn't advocate breaking of the law when carrying passengers, but it is a neat trick to get it MOT'd, when you can find belts at your leisure.

Dollywobbler · Post by **Dollywobbler** » Fri Aug 19, 2011 1:19 pm

We'll see. If I can get belts, I'll fit belts.

Just had it running as I wanted to run it up to temperature - though I'm having to use my thermo-equipped multimeter to tell me how hot things are. Worrying at first as the engine was hot, but rad and heater were both cold - easily sorted by removing the huge nut on the thermostat and letting all of the air out! Not had it hot enough to get the fans running (surprisingly difficult on a 19 diesel, even with a knackered rad) but certainly able to get it warm - temp reading of about 75 degrees through the bleed hole (if that's what it is) and cooler than that in the rad - as you'd hope.

Heater got nice and hot - which is nice - but the ol' resistor pack issue is clearly present. Fan only works on position 3.

Still need a battery. The one fitted to it won't hold any charge at all. Roll on pay day!

Post by **mat_fenwick** » Fri Aug 19, 2011 1:28 pm

Dollywobbler wrote:resistor pack issue is clearly present.

Does the Mk1 have a resistor pack rather than transistor control? I have a spare board from a Mk2 you can have if you like - if that's any use.

Dollywobbler · Post by **Dollywobbler** » Fri Aug 19, 2011 4:52 pm

Ah, no idea Mat. Just said resistor pack because that's what I've also got to replace on the Range Rover. That also has a heater that only works on the fastest setting...

ken newbold · Post by **ken newbold** » Fri Aug 19, 2011 5:27 pm

No resistor pack in the Mk1

however, depending on date of manufacture, it could have a completely different fan on board

Some of the early Mk1's have a fan that sits well down inside the car, behind everything else

the good news is that it might just be stuck and it can be seen and prodded (just) from the scuttle under the windscreen.

Dollywobbler · Post by **Dollywobbler** » Fri Aug 19, 2011 5:29 pm

It definitely works on the top setting - not exactly fierce, but then nor is the blower on a Mk2 BX...

Not a massive issue I guess - a working heater with just one setting is better than no heater! The heat control at least works very nicely...

Dollywobbler · Post by **Dollywobbler** » Sat Aug 20, 2011 5:59 pm

I've just had the tailgate fully open for the first time, and re-fitted the gas strut on the RH side. Then discovered why it had been removed - the RH hinge is completely busted! Then had to try and remove the strut while holding the very heavy tailgate open. Phew.

It would be very useful at this stage if someone could post up some pics of what the hinge SHOULD look like. At the moment, I'm not sure if the damage is to the tailgate itself or the body. Bit of a set-back this, as I think a non-opening tailgate is a reason to refuse a test from the tester's point of view.

citsncycles · Post by **citsncycles** » Sat Aug 20, 2011 8:41 pm

I'm quite happy to be corrected, but I don't think a non opening tailgate is an MOT failure, as it's not required for passenger exit. On the other hand, a broken hinge would probably be classed as unsecure bodywork if the tester noticed it.

Dollywobbler · Post by **Dollywobbler** » Sat Aug 20, 2011 9:26 pm

We'll see if the resident MOT tester on Autoshite can confirm! It's certainly a set-back. I know this thing's got bodywork issues, but I was hoping I could get it on the road before sorting them. The other issue is the rear bumper sticking out from the dented rear wing. Was going to see if the test station (who do a lot of rally car prep) could try and pull the wing out a bit...

Dollywobbler · Post by **Dollywobbler** » Sun Aug 21, 2011 7:16 pm

Tailgate does need to open for an MOT. However, on the positive side, catsinthewelder of this parish kindly send me some pics of the hinges on his estate, which has enabled me to confirm that it's the tailgate that's broken, not the body part of the hinge (RH, LH is still out of alignment). I class that as good news.

Dollywobbler · Post by **Dollywobbler** » Tue Aug 30, 2011 1:32 pm

New radiator has been fitted today. An easy job, though I've got no coolant knocking about, so job completion is on hold! Also, got a nice digital temp gauge, but the 'universal' sensor is certainly not going to fit the BX. Presume having it screwed into the 'stat' housing would be the most ideal solution? Diagram that came with it suggested hacking into the top hose - but surely that'll only show a reading once the 'stat is open? Not what I want.

I guess I could try and replace the gauge sensor - do I really need an overheat sensor if I've got a gauge showing the reading? I see there are two sensors just behind the 'stat housing. Guess one of those is for low coolant?

Still need a battery, but still waiting for pay day...

Dollywobbler · Post by **Dollywobbler** » Tue Aug 30, 2011 2:12 pm

Pics of progress.
Old rad was really pretty well knackered!

New one fitted.

mds141 · Post by **mds141** » Tue Aug 30, 2011 5:25 pm

That radiator looks like the sink from my 1st flat.

Dollywobbler · Post by **Dollywobbler** » Tue Aug 30, 2011 5:27 pm

I've just been discovering all the bits I forgot to swap from one rad to the other...

Aside from getting wet feet, all's well though I think. Just need to see if I can get it running on just the jump pack so I can make sure there are no airlocks... (heater tap is open).