TD & 16v Clutch Change

Frequently asked technical questions and common modifications/improvements
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TD & 16v Clutch Change

Post by mat_fenwick »


Axle stands, Trolley jack (optional: engine support beam, engine hoist)
35mm socket. Normal handtools. Balljoint splitter.

Method (assuming DIY, not using ramp etc)

1) Before jacking up car, remove driveshaft split pins, and undo 35mm driveshaft nut at hub each side.
Jack up front of car, and support on 2 axle stands which should be placed securely under the front subframe. Place height lever in the LOW position.Remove both front wheels.
Drain gearbox oil (21mm spanner required)
Undo bottom balljoint nuts (18mm socket), using balljoint splitter remove balljoint from arm. Pull n/s hub out of the way, then pull out n/s driveshaft. For the o/s shaft (optional, but makes it easier on reassembly), get under car and undo the 2 11mm nuts that secure the shaft where it runs through the lower engine mounting. Retract securing bolts, leave in place. Then remove o/s driveshaft.
Remove metal splash plate between engine and gearbox (3x 10mm bolts)
Turn 12mm bleed on regulator ½ turn to release any system pressure, then remove accumulator. Then undo the 4x 11mm bolts that secure the pressure reg and the flow valve to the bellhousing. Move these parts towards the radiator, taking great care not to damage rad, and place bucket on floor to catch any leaking LHM.
Undo 17mm headed bolts and allen key bolts securing gearbox to engine that are accessible whilst you are still working under the car.
Undo 3x13mm bolts securing RH diff housing to g/box, (the bit where the speedo drive is) and carefully withdraw housing, taking care not to lose seal and plastic cog.
Finally, slide trolley jack under sump (using block of wood) to support engine.

2) Now its time to work from on top

Disconnect and remove the battery. Undo the speedo cable where it goes through the bulkhead, and pull up lower cable/diff housing and put them somewhere safe!
At this point you should support the gearbox in someway, ideally via an engine hoist or a further jack.
Undo the gearbox mounting (18 or 19mm nut), then the 2x13mm nuts that secure the rubber housing.
At this point it’s a good idea to remove the metal mounting stud that bolts into the top of the gearbox, stilsons or molegrips seem to be the only way to grip it, its VERY tight.
Remove the air intake pipe that goes from the front panel to the air filter, plus any other air pipes that will get in the way. Remove water header tank (1 10mm nut, 1 x 10mm bolt) plus 2 hose clips.
Remove wiring plug to reverse light switch.
Loosen the 2 adjuster bolts for the HP pump, and remove the pump belt. Undo the 12mm HP pipe nut from the pump Remove the pump rubber supply pipe, plug end with old sparkplug to avoid losing LHM, and tie out of the way. Remove the HP pump complete with its housing to the gearbox (3x13mm bolts).
Loosen the clutch cable (10mm and 13mm spanner), remove cable from arm, and unclip cable from gearbox.
Unclip the 2 gearbox selector rods from the back of the gearbox. Undo the 3 allen key bolts that secure the starter motor to the bellhousing, plus the remaining 17mm bolts that secure gearbox to engine.
Very carefully bend HP pipe that runs from pump to flow valve out of the way, and cable tie it clear to avoid it being trapped when you come to refit the gearbox.
Gearbox should now be ready to come out, have a final check around and ensure that nothing can get in the way, or is still connected.

3) Back underneath

Lower jack or beam supporting engine so that gearbox drops past steering rack.
Ensure that weight of gearbox is supported, ideally from on top using engine crane and rope. Waggle gearbox free of engine and lower to ground.

You will now be able to undo the clutch from the flywheel, and replace. The new release bearing clips onto the input shaft. If there is any doubt in your mind at this stage about the state of the input shaft seal or clutch arm bearings, replace them! Whilst the box is on the ground, replace LH driveshaft seal. (RH one gets done when you replace the diff housing).
VERY IMPORTANT With release bearing refitted, pull clutch arm back and secure it to suitable hole on gearbox casing using a cable tie. Otherwise, the bearing is likely to fall off when you try and put the gearbox back on!!!!!!
Dab of copper slip on the input shaft splines, and the box is ready to be hoisted up. Be very careful that the weight of the box is not hanging on the input shaft, get the box to just the right height before attempting to slide it back on. At this point a handy tip is to have a couple of long spare bolts handy (we used some 2cv axle tube bolts), and try and get them in a few turns, you should then be able to locate the box precisely and slide it home.
Fit all other engine to box mounting bolts, and remove the extended ones. Refit the gearbox support stud, make sure its very tight. Raise gearbox and ensure stud goes through the hole under the battery area.Refit rubber gearbox mounting (2x 13mm nuts) and fit 18mm nut and tighten gearbox mount!
Its back in!

I have to say that “refitting is a reverse of the removal procedure” from now on, but a few points:
The first thing to do at this stage is to cut the cable tie from the clutch arm, and refit the cable. Adjust it so that the clutch pedal sits slightly higher than the brake pedal. Before putting everything back together, press the clutch pedal, make sure it works!
DON’T FORGET to put in 2 litres of transmission oil after you’ve done the diff seals and refitted the shafts!
VERY IMPORTANT things to do once everything is back together.

1)Prime the HP Pump by pouring in clean LHM using a funnel direct to the pump. With the bleed valve open on the pressure reg, spin the engine a few times whilst more LHM is poured into the pump body, then refit the rubber supply pipe to the pump using a new hose clip. It’s a good idea to follow this pipe back to the LHM tank, undo it, and further prime pump by pouring LHM down this pipe. Refit pipe, start the car in high and purge air from the system by opening and closing the 12mm bleed on the pressure reg.(Car in high position!)
2)Check LHM level with the car in high, you’ve probably lost quite a bit.
3)Don’t forget to top up, then bleed the coolant!!!

Thanks to Jon Wood for the write up.

1993 1.9 TZD Turbo Estate
1996 3.9 V8 Discovery
1993 VW LT35 campervan
1985 Hyundai Stellar V8
2016 Hyundai iLoad
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Re: TD & 16v Clutch Change

Post by Vanny »

Is it not it 1.8 litres of gear box oil? Not that it really matters if there is a little extra!
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Matt H
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Re: TD & 16v Clutch Change

Post by Matt H »

Silly question, but I am right in saying this is virtually the same for a Peugeot 205... Minus the high-pressure piping to worry about? Can't imagine it is much different.
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Joined: Tue May 17, 2005 11:48 pm
Location: BXProject
My Cars: BX 16v Ph2 - Jazz
BX 16v Ph2 - XPO
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Re: TD & 16v Clutch Change

Post by Vanny »

If it's anything like the 405, then the instructions are much the same however you have to include two buckets of extra swear words. I'm not sure who designed the subframes on the 405, but i'm pretty sure they had no idea that an engine would be going into the engine bay!