Wanted: rear anti roll bar bolts.

[CGATCX25GTITURBO]

I have two brand new NOS 27mm versions available

[Defender110]

Must admit i was thinking DIAM 12X150-27 meant diameter 12mm, bolt 150mm long, with 27mm without thread. But that would be stupid wouldn't it

But i guess its 12mm diameter by 150 pitch? Stupid boy pike.

Yes it is 12mm diameter by a 1.50 pitch and either 27mm or 29mm long depending which roll bar you are fitting, which as you said is slightly oddball being a metric fine thread where standard 12mm bolts would normally be 1.75 pitch. The ones in my ebay link with 30mm lemgth should do fine as I doubt the extra 3mm will bottom out.

[RobC]

Thanks for the enlightening discussion folks - hopefully the 27mm ones will fit. I will update...

Anyone fancy my chances at drilling out the currently sheared-off bolt? Or do you reckon it's a rear-arm-off-and-heat job...

[mat_fenwick]

You might be able to get it out by placing a nut over the remains of the bolt and welding to it. Access isn't ideal though, and you need to crank up the current to get really good penetration before the nut just fills with weld. But the heat may break the grip of rust holding it in place.

[Birotor]

Must admit i was thinking DIAM 12X150-27 meant diameter 12mm, bolt 150mm long, with 27mm without thread. But that would be stupid wouldn't it

But i guess its 12mm diameter by 150 pitch? Stupid boy pike.

Yes it is 12mm diameter by a 1.50 pitch and either 27mm or 29mm long depending which roll bar you are fitting, which as you said is slightly oddball being a metric fine thread where standard 12mm bolts would normally be 1.75 pitch. The ones in my ebay link with 30mm lemgth should do fine as I doubt the extra 3mm will bottom out.

By ES
In certain sizes there are different pitch variations. This stems from the history of metric threads and there was once a complete Metric Fine and a Metric Coarse Thread series. This is very much the case with early Velo Solex and I have an extensive set of early small diameter taps both RH and LH
There is also Japanese Metric which is used in motor cycles eg Kawasaki rear wheel axle bolts.

[RobC]

Just an update to this. To cut a long story short:

- it's much more complicated than just swopping the antiroll bars. As well as the different ARB, the entire rear subframe is different on a 16v to that of a regular bx. Even with the correct bolts, a 16v ARB will never fit.
- The 16v ARB is thicker (as we know) but also has the clamp integrated on it. Other ARBs have the clamp separate.

I'm pretty peed off that I was sold this car under the impression that all that was needed was to put the 16v ARB on. As it happens I've now had to spend a lot of money to put right the previous owner's bodged efforts - the nearside arm had to come off to have the sheared bolt removed, and the other hole needed retapping. So I will have to stick with a GTi rear end instead of a 16v, unless I fit a 16v subframe (which I don't feel like doing).

Nothing's ever as simple as it seems

[MULLEY]

Typical, was it a forum member that you bought the car off?

[RobC]

A gentleman no longer in the BX sphere (pardon the pun). I won't say any more than that!

Time to take a deep breath and move on