Rob's 40 valves - can't stop the rock - or do I mean rot...
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Re: Rob's 16v
They do NOT like the wet, not one bit. What is the MIL doing (if its fitted)?
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Re: Rob's 16v
I'm not sure if one is fitted - do you mean the stop light? No lights were lighting up when it last ran, it just got extremely lumpy (running on two, possibly one!) and then stopped...
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Re: Rob's 16v
Did it do that when hot? Mine does that. Great when cold, dies when hot. Coolant temp sensor reads correct resistance too.
Anyways, keep us posted on them non genuine dizzy cap etc. I face the same dilemma
Anyways, keep us posted on them non genuine dizzy cap etc. I face the same dilemma
1990 BX 16V Platinum Grey
1990 BX TGD White
1960 Morris Minor Clarondon Grey
1971 Triumph 2000 Auto Valencia Blue
1990 BX TGD White
1960 Morris Minor Clarondon Grey
1971 Triumph 2000 Auto Valencia Blue
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Re: Rob's 16v
No, it was stone cold - it hasn't been run enough to get properly hot for about 7 years!!!
I'm going to redo the top end and see how things go. Will keep you updated...
I'm going to redo the top end and see how things go. Will keep you updated...
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Re: Rob's 16 valves - now with added phase 1
Minor update, I know, this thread is useless without etc etc etc...
I've replaced the plugs and also fitted some nice Lumenition 8mm HT leads I had stored up.
Still no starting. Unfortunately the non-OE dizzy cap and rotor arm that I ordered seem to have been lost in the post, and I'm waiting for replacements. I'm now considered whether to shell out for a Beru dizzy cap, as I have finally got round to inspecting the one on the car and two of the electrodes are completely corroded. This is probably a very basic question, but when the arm rotates, is it meant to actually contact the electrodes, or simply arc across a very small gap?
Here is the evidence of the old plugs m'lud:
I think that's roughly left to right. All carbonified horribly, as you can see - but I'm a bit worried about 3 and 4. They look oilier than they should be. Could this just be from a lot of turning over and no starting for basically the last 6 years - or is there something more sinister at work? I'm thinking bore wear, rings or valve guides...?
Anyway, dizzy cap is next, and then check the spark plugs out of the block for sparking, then compression test. Further bulletins as events warrant here.
News from other bits of the forum; Synergie set on fire and bought another 16v.
I've replaced the plugs and also fitted some nice Lumenition 8mm HT leads I had stored up.
Still no starting. Unfortunately the non-OE dizzy cap and rotor arm that I ordered seem to have been lost in the post, and I'm waiting for replacements. I'm now considered whether to shell out for a Beru dizzy cap, as I have finally got round to inspecting the one on the car and two of the electrodes are completely corroded. This is probably a very basic question, but when the arm rotates, is it meant to actually contact the electrodes, or simply arc across a very small gap?
Here is the evidence of the old plugs m'lud:
I think that's roughly left to right. All carbonified horribly, as you can see - but I'm a bit worried about 3 and 4. They look oilier than they should be. Could this just be from a lot of turning over and no starting for basically the last 6 years - or is there something more sinister at work? I'm thinking bore wear, rings or valve guides...?
Anyway, dizzy cap is next, and then check the spark plugs out of the block for sparking, then compression test. Further bulletins as events warrant here.
News from other bits of the forum; Synergie set on fire and bought another 16v.
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Re: Rob's 16 valves - now with added phase 1
Oh, and one other bit of news. I'm wondering if some proper buckets would be the way to go for the pink one, in which case those leather 16v front seats may be up for grabs, I think Kitch has first refusal if I do decide to get rid of them...
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Re: Rob's 16 valves - now with added phase 1
Been waiting for them!djoptix wrote:Oh, and one other bit of news. I'm wondering if some proper buckets would be the way to go for the pink one, in which case those leather 16v front seats may be up for grabs, I think Kitch has first refusal if I do decide to get rid of them...
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CCC BX registrar: The national BX register - click to submit a car!
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Re: Rob's 32 valves
In the absence of a working BX to play with I have made a small modification to the daily driver, which has added at least 10bhp!
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Re: Rob's 32 valves
Whats that winder/handle thingy on the other door?
Lots of Motors, mostly semi broken....
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Re: Rob's 32 valves
no idea. I believe it's some kind of peasant option, I will have to find a poor person and ask them.Tim Leech wrote:Whats that winder/handle thingy on the other door?
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Re: Rob's 32 valves
What car is it? I'm guessing a nissan of sorts?
Anyway, the rotor arm is not meant to touch the electrodes in the cap, merely pass close to them.
Anyway, the rotor arm is not meant to touch the electrodes in the cap, merely pass close to them.
1990 BX 16V Platinum Grey
1990 BX TGD White
1960 Morris Minor Clarondon Grey
1971 Triumph 2000 Auto Valencia Blue
1990 BX TGD White
1960 Morris Minor Clarondon Grey
1971 Triumph 2000 Auto Valencia Blue
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Re: Rob's 32 valves
ToyBoata Corolla. Thanks for the info re the dizzy.
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Re: Rob's 32 valves
New dizzy cap arrived, now I can see how completely shot the old one is! I'm hoping this will cure the non-starting...
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BX 16v Ph2 - XPO - x 91
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Re: Rob's 32 valves
Sorry, pics coming at the weekend!