Dreaded octopus questions

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citronut
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Re: Dreaded octopus questions

Post by citronut »

kieran.l wrote:Sorry for the confusion and if I got peoples hopes up, but I just confirmed the price with Citroen and he said €61 + vat = €75 :oops: So the outcome is, I need to get my hearing checked!


sick squid as a or should that read £6 quid :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

regards malcolm
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kieran.l
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Re: Dreaded octopus questions

Post by kieran.l »

Had a look at what is needed to fit the octopus yesterday. Access is really restricted! :( Especially because of the sleeves that keep the pipes located and together. Its difficult to track what pipes go where. Would removing the centre bearing unit and right hand drive shaft give sufficient access? Or would removing the engine be a better option?
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mat_fenwick
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Re: Dreaded octopus questions

Post by mat_fenwick »

You don't need to remove the engine (although it does help :lol:) but removing the driveshaft is a good idea, especially if it's your first time. I reckon you'll save more time than you'd lose by taking the shaft out...but you'd spend more time taking the engine out than you'd save.
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Re: Dreaded octopus questions

Post by MULLEY »

I'm pretty sure that my local indie didn't remove anything, but then again they have got a 4 post lift & have done this type of work before, which probably means its relatively easy for them to do, they still took 4hrs to change both though, so it seems to be quite a time consuming job.
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citronut
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Re: Dreaded octopus questions

Post by citronut »

three long ones come out of one side of the pussy go up and along the chassis rail and terminate at the tank,

the other long one goes across the other side of the front sub frame, through the plastic tube, and connects to the metal stub for one of the leg pipes,

then the very short branch goes to the front height corrector, this one is usually to long so cut it down, ust the cut of section to go on the safety valve behind the N/S/F wheel,

then there are two plastic return pipes come from the back of the car which plug into the two spouts of the pussy which face backwards, these are size related as the plastic pipes are two different diameters,

then there are similar coming across the front sub frame which plug into the two corresponding ports of the pussy,

this should just leave one port into of ot for the short plastic coupling pipe from the O/S strut/leg pipe,


be careful when pulling the small rubber elbow which one off of the tank, as there is a tiny bnall bearing in it,
you need to pull this elbow from the tank as on of the pussy pipes plugs onto it,

regards malcolm
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also own
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Re: Dreaded octopus questions

Post by tim »

I did my first octopus last year and wrote it up with pictures, should be around somewhere! I found that you did not need to remove the driveshaft - extra work. You can still grab hold of the old one perfectly OK. And I mounted my new one on the bulkhead rather than underneath, and can't think why anyone would want to do different, given the choice. I also printed off the colour digram of the octopus layout which is available on this forum, which is invaluable for telling you what goes where. The only problems were getting the new pipes onto the height corrector, as access is so cramped. And one pipe needed a jubilee clip as it blew off as soon as I pumped it up....
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Re: Dreaded octopus questions

Post by tim »

Just looked it up and it's dec 22 2011, you can find it if you search my posts. Didn't realise I'd done so many..... you will obviously need good ramps, as you have to lie on your back to plug in the new pipes to the rearwards-heading ones just aft of the crossmember. But if you haven't got ramps you can't really do anything at all to a BX, can you?
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Re: Dreaded octopus questions

Post by Way2go »

Personally I don't use ramps for the BX as it is more secure to use axle stands under the sill jacking points. After all, the car can still drop some if not fully depressurised when on wheel ramps. In the case of being under the engine it is also preferable to chock the rear wheels as the handbrake acts on the front wheels only.

Also using the axle stands in this way you can achieve more working room with the wheels off. :D
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Re: Dreaded octopus questions

Post by citronut »

/ \

far easier with the O/S/F wheel removed

regards malcolm
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Re: Dreaded octopus questions

Post by tim »

Fair nuff - I must admit that the ramps I use are a bit bigger than yer average ones; the car is so high up there's room for a mate and a picnic hamper. However, if you haven't got dead level ground all round, an axle stand can be pretty unstable unless all three wheels are really firmly on the ground. I suppose it depends on what you are doing down there; in my case I was simply pulling out the old octopod, 80% of the work was done from above.
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kieran.l
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Re: Dreaded octopus questions

Post by kieran.l »

Thanks for the info and help guys. Won't remove the engine :lol: but will take the O/S wheel and shaft off to help. Access is not a problem, we have a handy lifting device :wink:

Image

Tim, interesting alternative to mount it on the bulkhead but I think I'll try route it as originally done.
Hope to do it at the weekend, will let ye know what happens and hopefully take some pics too
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Re: Dreaded octopus questions

Post by Brian »

Tim Wrote:
I also printed off the colour digram of the octopus layout which is available on this forum, which is invaluable for telling you what goes where

Hi Folks
Can someone point me in the direction of this link, can't seem to locate it.

Thanks in advance.
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Re: Dreaded octopus questions

Post by Vantman »

Is this any use?
http://www.mars.dti.ne.jp/~ynar/bxorg_a ... /m15e.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
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Re: Dreaded octopus questions

Post by Brian »

Thanks Brian, just the job.
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Re: Dreaded octopus questions

Post by smith »

Been asked to add my experience to this thread.

Having read every article going on this subject and then confused myself, I just decided to go for it but using the below link as the guide as I liked the pictures.
I ended up using silicon rubber vac hose 3.5 m of 4mm and 1.5m of 5mm dia. This type of pipe is flexible and not too thick as space is very tight. I did check on web if ok to use and could not see anything saying no.
I did not purchase the brass Tee’s as shown in picture as very pricey but decent water jet types worked fine. There is a previous article that lists a supplier. Price looks very good £1 for 10 I think.
I’m not going to do war and peace step by step report but here’s some safety stuff first. Clear a whole day and do not rush. Also put up a do not disturb sign. Pump up suspension if can. Drive up ramps. Chock wheels and axel stand under sills as we all know the car will sink.
Now the actual work stuff. Mark up all your pipes with different coloured tapes etc. as you rip out. No point writing on them. The one’s to watch out for are the front suspension returns as one is an air vent and the other a fluid return. Dead easy to mix up like I did.
The lower suspension bracket dose have to come off to help get at pipes etc. but trying to get back on is hard. I used a small ratchet strap. I wrapped it around the sump and hooked onto cross member (make sure no pipes in way!). I had to tighten loads to get bolt back in so watch out if strap slips!
I decided to replace the back set of pipes first as I could then put those in place and pull through towards the rear. I made them up like picture but cut to size and not as per old ones. I did cut back the 2 plastic returns by 6 inches that run to the rear suspension as suggested in one of the articles I read as much easier to add new rubber onto them after. This is why I cut the new rubber to size. Make sure you pull up each long pipe to the tank individually and not in a bunch. The front octopus pipes build up the same as rear. I ran individual pipe to front high corrector. To get to that return connection I found accessing from the rear of sub frame is easier than trying at the front. It is tempting I know, but with a very long screwdriver you can get a small pipe clip on to both connections. The spare 4 and 5mm plastic pipe cut off from rear return pipes make excellent joiners if you want to leave some of the pipes that run to N/S suspension.
The rest was just pipe per pipe. I did not replace all the pipes going over to N/S suspension as looked fine. May regret it but car only drives local and 500m a year if that.
Folks say it can take just 2 hours. I agree if I did another then no problems. I’m in Staffordshire so if need a hand let me know.
However, I’m now scared of replacing the 2 front brake hoses as looking tired. Any advice?

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