light stalk?

[Thread Bear]

WD40 Hygroscopic? That's a bit of an urban myth - I've yet to see any evidence supporting it. What it does is displace moisture, not absorb it!

Also, PTFE in itself is not hygroscopic. However, you may get items which are described as PFTE but are in fact made from another material (e.g. nylon, which is hygroscopic) with a percentage of PTFE added to help lubrication.

Anyway, this is getting away from the OP's question which was to do with the lighting stalk!

If you clean off metal with WD40 and leave it, it goes rusty. It does not if you use oil. Just because it disburses water does not mean in is is not slight hydroscopic. Diesel does the same thing. It is not the correct product for this job, nor for the switch, really. Its seductively useful in its self propelling tin.

Would need to check on PTFE/Teflon. An engineer told me about this. It is pertinent to Messerschcmitt steering and king pin bushings. The answer is the correct grade of stainless steel. Mybe the oil is a different technology to the solid version you can machine.

[mat_fenwick]

I agree that it's rarely the best product for any specific job, but it has its uses. I would also agree that the film left by a heavier oil would prevent corrosion far more effectively than that left by WD40, but that does not mean that it's hygroscopic. The only suituation I can see that it would promote rusting compared with untreated steel, would be if the untreated steel had a greasy film on it, which the WD40 removed and left only a thinner protective layer. My curious mind wants to try two identical pieces of clean steel, one left bare and one coated with WD40...if the coated one rusts quicker, then I'll humbly eat my words.

Going back to the original question, both contact cleaner and WD40 may clean the switch, but the latter will leave a residue which can cause problems in the long run. So contact cleaner would be the correct 'tool' for the job.

[adamskibx]

I remember when I was a child; I had a remote controlled Audi A4, and was told to avoid WD40 because it dissolves carbon brushes in the motor. I was told to use GT85 instead. I don't know how much truth there is in that.

[Tinkley]

PTFE has lots of nano sized holes in it as a structure. It is not used for cleanable chemical tubing because of this. Pig material to mould too as gives off sulphuric acid as by product. WD displaces water by sucking it out as far as I am aware, I don't particularly like silicones for some applications because they cause problems when using other adhesives especially structural epoxies. Silicone tubing and sealants are good. BTW the later BX handbrake cables with PTFE coated cables in nylon inner are far superior to the early versions where the water freezes inside the inner causing a 'handbrake release' problem ie it won't til the ice melts....

[Thread Bear]

To split hairs the test would be that either, both rust at a similar speed, or, the WD40 one will take longer to rust . Nonetheless proof is indeed a main ingredient of several pies including humble ones. I have no idea if it all ready exists from an independent source as an ingredient. The key thing is if poss try using the best stuff for a task, whilst using handy short cuts, remembering why you are doing it.

Solid version PTFE, that vacant space will be why it can hold water perhaps. I know it is unpleasant to work with. Never had the older cable stuff freeze but most of my cables are oiled or greased (bowden/teleflex) depending on type. The water has a tough time getting in. Not so easy on a cable into the brakes as excess lubricant must not pollute the friction materials.

[Tinkley]

Well TB, I never had the frozen handbrake on my 14RE (15 years ownership), but both the Athenas have had a problem. Partly down to lots of local fords as well, however since changing the cables, it has never frozen again. Note there is a nylon inner on the Bowden cable and that has reasonable self lube properties, certainly better than cable against a wound steel surround with no lining.

A right pain, fighting a binding handbrake, whilst driving down the road getting enough heat in the cable to melt the ice.....still had to get kids to school.....

[Thread Bear]

Surly Athenas will be self Greecing

Indeed a slippy sleeve is a help. I am unsure what material this is, or if it varies. The Schmitt ones I refer to could not be lubed up with oil as the liner then moved jamming the action of the cable. Left it was holding water and knocking the cable out. There was also problems with nipples pulling through, as the modern way of cable making is mega ton crimping. Sorry, that is useless on a a well loaded cable. The old fashioned flared end filled with solder wins, as it is simple bigger than the hole it originally went through. The end never fails on these, but the neck inside the nipple might fail. Servicing will see that spotted long before it happens....

The Pug 405 and 205 were both buggers for seizing up the rear brakes - drums. My Mum never used to pull her handbrake up far and the number of times I got the rear wheels jammed was legion . It was not the cleverest design and the remedy was to pull it off, lub it and then stick it on the service list. Several of her cars rolled off when parked. Once she ended up with two down the bank in the hedge in France and a third stuck in a ditch coming down the lane (not an unusual occurrence on the little roads of the Lot) to pull them out . Queue Goat Farmer with tractor down the road. All done with a smile and Aperitifs.

Not had a prob or fiddled with the BX set up so cannot really comment but this wet weather will be taking its toll on a lot of dangly bits. Now several folk who have lost vent discs. Shock of quenching in flood water cracks them it would seem.

[electrokid]

Welcome to BXClub Lee

Switch cleaner will be much better than WD40 for cleaning the light stalk.

I've never come across an intermittent problem with a relay before

Very occasionally they can go intermittant but they usually just stop working - that can be the coil going open circuit or the contacts not making.

was told to avoid WD40 because it dissolves carbon brushes in the motor.

Unlilely to dissolve the brushes - brushes for low voltage applications should have less carbon and more copper / brass anyway - but WD40 will 'hold' any carbon that's around and keep it smeared around the commutator - that will certainly screw it up.

Strangest happening with a speedo cable - a workmate had a Fiat Panda and replaced the speedo cable one weekend - can't remember which but either it could be fitted the wrong way round or the cable was manufactured with the inner spiral wound in the wrong direction - anyway - it acted like an Archimedes screw and pumped GB oil up into the dash which then dripped onto trousers and feet - not nice.

[Tinkley]

Must be the spaghetti spiral......