Aftermarket Alarm System Must Go - But How?

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BXTASY
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My Cars: 1988 BX 1.9 GTI
x 4

Aftermarket Alarm System Must Go - But How?

Post by BXTASY »

Howdy BXers

The aftermarket alarm system in my ’88 GTI, (imported from the Netherlands), is troublesome and must be removed. Some of the wiring appeared to be in the center console, but what are the functions of the black rocker switch and the white button, which has a three-contact connector underneath, with nothing connected? A local alarm specialist thought it might have a "valet" switch to temporarily disable the system.

How to remove the forward half of the console to trace these wires? It can’t come straight back due to lack of clearance over the parking brake lever, so I was going to detach the lever and move it aside. Does the gearshift lever have to be removed?

For better access to wiring where the alarm siren power cable-antenna enters through the firewall from the engine compartment, I want to remove the drop-down cassette storage bin - it has two stop tabs on the sides which can be released by squeezing the bin sides together, but then how does it come out? Will it slip off its hinge? - don’t want to pull hard unless I know.

When the alarm system is armed, the starter and fuel pump will not operate, so they possibly are controlled through a relay. I looked for a schematic of the fuse box but haven't been able to identify the function of the relays in the box.
Center Console - Two Switches.  Own copyright - bxtasy
Center Console - Two Switches. Own copyright - bxtasy
Center Console Wiring.  Own copyright - bxtasy
Center Console Wiring. Own copyright - bxtasy
Cassette Bin.  Own copyright - bxtasy
Cassette Bin. Own copyright - bxtasy
Front Console - Rear Nut.  Own copyright - bxtasy
Front Console - Rear Nut. Own copyright - bxtasy
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panky
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'88 BX GTi (a long time ago)
x 116

Re: Aftermarket Alarm System Must Go - But How?

Post by panky »

The button does look like the 'valet' selector, sometimes referred to as the alarm override, and is usually tucked out of the way so it's not so obvious. The switch could be the ACC on/off, this is connected to the handbrake and when the handbrake is pushed off (with the ignition on) the central locking activates and locks the doors.
I'm no expert on this I just looked at the instructions for the aftermarket system I have fitted to one of my vehicles.
One thing to remember is that if you do remove the alarm system it will affect the central locking if it's all connected.
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BXTASY
Confirmed BX'er
Posts: 30
Joined: Mon Jul 13, 2015 2:27 am
My Cars: 1988 BX 1.9 GTI
x 4

Re: Aftermarket Alarm System Must Go - But How?

Post by BXTASY »

Thanks for the reply, Panky. The aftermarket system does lock and unlock the doors along with arming/disarming the system. I assume the alarm wiring is tied into the car’s infrared receiver, but I’ve not been able to test that with the alarm in control. The door lock control unit (second photo in first post) has eight green wires and three yellow, which does not match the Circuit IX wiring diagram (page 13-54), but at least has the same total number of cavities used.

Where is component #91 (Circuit IX), the Remote Control Door Locking Unit (Plip)?

The red wires (first post) under the center console lead through the firewall to the battery positive - one powers a stereo preamp under the seat, so disregard my previous question about the rocker switch, white button, and console removal to trace the wires.

Unlocking the doors with the aftermarket remote, which is embossed “GT” and is disintegrating as we speak (first photo), still results in the hazard lights flashing, even with the ignition off and the alarm system presumably disarmed (doors unlocked).

Next photos show the siren, located in the cowl, and the only labeling - almost readable, brand appears to end in “…tronic.” Anyone have something similar? Its cable through the firewall splits into several small wires around the steering column - with a higher gauge white wire leading to the junction box, Column 4, Stage 2, a + source shown with four wires (disconnected in photo, from second position behind the black direction indicator relay). One of these two white wires apparently powers the ignition switch, the other probably powers the alarm system.

I still need to get the cassette bin removed for access to under-dash wiring and maybe the alarm system “brain.” Chapter 12, Junction Box, XB 510-00, (p.1) reads “the cassette box can be removed to facilitate access.” How?

One of Eight
Alarm Remote Control    Own copyright-bxtasy
Alarm Remote Control Own copyright-bxtasy
Alarm Siren    Own copyright-bxtasy
Alarm Siren Own copyright-bxtasy
Alarm Siren Label    Own copyright-bxtasy
Alarm Siren Label Own copyright-bxtasy
12 v Power lead to ignition (& alarm?)    Own copyright-bxtasy
12 v Power lead to ignition (& alarm?) Own copyright-bxtasy
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panky
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Location: Widnes
My Cars: 1985 BX 19 GT (DKK), 1971 Morris Minor Traveller, 1971 Commer Auto-Sleeper, 1969 Commer Jennings Roadranger.
'88 BX GTi (a long time ago)
x 116

Re: Aftermarket Alarm System Must Go - But How?

Post by panky »

Can't help with most of your questions, sorry, but the receiver for the original central locking fob is up in the roof console. You will see a small plastic dome up there, what's actually connected to it I never got the chance to find out.
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BXTASY
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x 4

Re: Aftermarket Alarm System Must Go - But How?

Post by BXTASY »

Glad to convey the good news that the cantankerous alarm system plaguing my BX GTI has been exorcised. As an example of aftermarket slipshod work, note that the alarm power came directly off the junction box white-wire 12v feed to the ignition switch (Column IV, Stage 2 on the junction box diagram), with a jury-rigged splice made by insulation removal and a wire wrapped around the bare area, then taped over.

Alarm Power Splice onto 12v Feed.  Own copyright, bxtasy
Alarm Power Splice onto 12v Feed. Own copyright, bxtasy

These two white wires merge into one red wire near the ignition switch, as is the case with two green wires merging into one green. Is this standard?

Ignition Switch Wiring.  Own copyright, bxtasy
Ignition Switch Wiring. Own copyright, bxtasy

Removing the alarm involved, first, cutting the siren cable in the engine compartment and pulling it through the firewall, then tracing several small gauge wires inside it.

Alarm Wires & Fuses.  Own copyright, bxtasy
Alarm Wires & Fuses. Own copyright, bxtasy

The yellow and orange ignition wires (Column III, Stage 4) had both been cut and seven black wires spliced into them, apparently to power parts of the alarm system.

Alarm Spliced Into Ignition Wires.  Own copyright, bxtasy
Alarm Spliced Into Ignition Wires. Own copyright, bxtasy

Thanks to Higher Forces, I realized I could kill the alarm by cutting all the black wires and simply splicing the two ignition wires back together. An electrician friend had metal butt connectors with holes in the center to allow inflow of solder, which he used for the splices. I asked him where he got those - “a nuclear power plant.” I now have the only nuclear-hybrid BX in the world.

Soldering Ignition Wires.  Own copyright, bxtasy
Soldering Ignition Wires. Own copyright, bxtasy

While tracing the black wires up into the darkness above the steering column, I saw that they entered a harness sleeve, along with many other small-gauge wires, then lurking way up high was a sinister black box with all those wires connected to it, another system brain. I yanked it out and dragged all the wiring with it, cutting many of them to make removal easier. A label identified the make as “Getronic.”

Alarm Module Removal.  Own copyright, bxtasy
Alarm Module Removal. Own copyright, bxtasy

Then I stomped on it in the driveway until it was surely dead.

Alarm Components Removed.  Own copyright, bxtasy
Alarm Components Removed. Own copyright, bxtasy

A few stray wires remain, a couple seeming to enter the instrument cluster from behind, and several routed out to the left front door, probably to operate the power locks.

I learned how to remove the cassette box for better access behind the dash - only open it a bit, then pull it off the hinge.

Also good to have the original Plip working again. The engine turns over with no further snags, maybe some day in the near future it will even start. Fuel flow to the rail is ok, anyone ever removed injectors for cleaning?
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panky
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My Cars: 1985 BX 19 GT (DKK), 1971 Morris Minor Traveller, 1971 Commer Auto-Sleeper, 1969 Commer Jennings Roadranger.
'88 BX GTi (a long time ago)
x 116

Re: Aftermarket Alarm System Must Go - But How?

Post by panky »

Glad you got it sorted
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Re: Aftermarket Alarm System Must Go - But How?

Post by rutter123 »

I had my gti injectors cleaned by ASNU through my local Bosch service centre, the report came back that they were operating at on average 95% full efficiency after cleaning the car did run marginally better.
I have a set of 4 gti injectors (Jetronic system) should you need them.
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