That's fair enough; get some use out of it.
Tell you something that dawned on me earlier on too that might be some help in getting the dreaded hub nut off.
As I keep saying, any springing in the breaker bar will render the impact of anything on that big stubborn nut useless, so the trick is to make sure you get this jarring action to crack it loose.
The 35mm hex socket with either a 1" or 3/4" drive breaker bar with a length of pipe 6 - 8 foot long is a must, but as an added help, I have seen a gadget they used to use on "D"s and CXs. It was a service tool with a number (and possibly a ridiculous price tag) but was a simple make it yourself jobbie.
Using flat steel plate about 5mm thick and 25/35mm wide, cut two pieces. One long enough to reach the floor from the rotor when the car was jacked up and the other9 - 12" long that was welded to it at about right angles.
Drill two holes, one in each leg (once it's welded together) so that they align with the bolt holes in the rotor and then bolt it to the rotor, release the handbrake and knock out of gear and allow the leg to sit on the floor. Fit the 35mm socket and breaker bar and jump on the end of the pipe extension; it should let go. If not get a hammer and give it a few big hard whacks; use a bloody 10lb sledge hammer if you have to!! (I have before today) but with that set up it has to let go and you will definitely get the jarring action you need without any risk of damaging the transmission in any way.
Alan S
P.S. If anyone has any pics of the gadget I'm referring to, can you post them as it's extremely simple when you see it; much easier than trying to describe it.