Need to change my cambelt on my TZD

Stewart (oily!) · Post by **Stewart (oily!)** » Sat Jul 29, 2006 3:10 pm

Haynes gives warnings about the tensioner falling apart, this has never happened to me, my 16mm socket happens to be my plug socket from BX GTI, the waterpump is best attacked from below so lower the jack for access, tensioner from the top so jack it up again.
Stewart

joolie · Post by **joolie** » Sat Jul 29, 2006 4:59 pm

ooooh yes the evil 16mm, had a time with that one, but it got solved when I got a 100pcs set WITH a 16mm!

You better get yourself a 16 ring spanner/standard, incase you ever need to remove the exhaust intake or adjust the handbrake!

any sign of vanny around? I need my cylinder head!

joolie · Post by **joolie** » Sat Jul 29, 2006 5:01 pm

correction:

i meant exhaust manifold. [/quote]

joolie · Post by **joolie** » Sat Jul 29, 2006 5:01 pm

correction:

i meant exhaust manifold.

meep · Post by **meep** » Sun Jul 30, 2006 3:04 am

Yes, my generally very good 100+ piece special offer set from Halfords is generally very good, it does have a 16mm regular socket, and a 16mm spanner (which didn't do much good for that deep one

), but untlil today I didn't have a 16mm deep...

Anyway round two will commence later on today

Adam · Post by **Adam** » Mon Aug 07, 2006 10:45 pm

I haven't tried this yet but I have it from a reliable source that a junior hacksaw minus blade can be slipped straight though the flywheel into the block around the starter, I have not tried this but the source (my dad) says he has used it many times and is simple to acieve, i'll be doing mine in the next week or so, i'll post how I get on.

jeremy · Post by **jeremy** » Tue Aug 08, 2006 8:16 am

That would seem right - if you look at the proprietory kits you will see that they have a bit of delicately bent rod for this purpose - and presumably it is bent to mnake it easier to use than a straight drill or rod.

meep · Post by **meep** » Fri Aug 11, 2006 7:23 pm

In my earlier post, by 'tensioner' I really meant 'idler wheels'

Anyway they weren't too bad in situ, the non tensioner one shares a bolt with the engine mount, which seems to have need loads of other bolts loosening so you can slip it out and in again.

The tensioner pulley was ok too, the tensioner bit itself dropped out, but that wasn't a problem, I just cleaned it up and put a bit of spray grease on it. It levered in behind the pulley bracket with a bit of thumb pressure.

Didn't quite get things right the first time... it just about ran with lots of smoke and a heavy right foot

The next day with a clear head, I wound the tensioner in again and popped the belt off, realigned everything (I was waaay out

), and all was well. My tip here would be to depart from the Haynes order, and refit the lower timing cover and crankshaft pulley once the belt is on the crank and the first idler, but before hooking it round the pump, cam, and tensioner pulley, as this will help hold it in place. The new belt just loved jumping off

The water pump was very easy as well, the impeller on the old one was actually shiny

. I'll put this down to the radflush that I'd left in for 500+ miles instead of the recommended 30

Even though the old belt didn't look too bad, the car now drives a lot better, a nice improvement in low end torque

Even Suzie agrees it's an improvement, despite some angry words on the Sunday night when I came back despondent with a smokey BX

In conclusion, it'll take ages if it's your first one, (that's down to the awkwardness of working in a 3" gap) but it's well worth doing!

Adam · Post by **Adam** » Sat Aug 12, 2006 2:00 am

I'm doing mine tomorrow, the Haynes manual is arriving at 11:30,hope it all works.! !! !!

Post by **mat_fenwick** » Mon Sep 18, 2006 1:04 pm

DavidRutherford wrote:While you're at it, check the tensioners and coolant pump very carefully indeed. If they are anything other than perfect, change them. If you look just below the coolant pump drive, there's a hole in the casting. This is the "weep" hole that lets coolant out if it's gotten past the seal so that it doesn't get into the bearing. If there's even a hint of evidence of weeping, change it.

OK, pedantic mode...

I work in quality for Quinton Hazell (who make water pumps) and a 'leak' from the weep hole is a very common misconception, and a reason for pumps returned under warranty. The seals are designed to pass a small amount of coolant to lubricate their faces (carbon or ceramic), and depending on the mileage and antifreeze used, could leave a residue.
Having said this, if in doubt, change it - just please don't return it under warrenty if the new one does the same!

BX_dizwol · Post by **BX_dizwol** » Thu Dec 14, 2006 4:25 pm

Well ive had a go at my cambelt today, first of all i had no idea how little space there would be, its real tight.

I got it all back together, and it owuldent start, after lots of turning it fired and was super smokey, i think ive got the damn timing wrong

It must be one tooth out on the diesel pump.

Feeling pretty dejected as i also got turned own for another job today.

Guess im going to have to have another bash again tomorrow

J

Philip Chidlow · Post by **Philip Chidlow** » Thu Dec 14, 2006 5:15 pm

Well sounds like you're nearly there. Keep the faith, and good luck

PS Sorry to hear about the job. But I'm freelance and this time of year's often lousy for finding work, so better luck in the New Year

BX_dizwol · Post by **BX_dizwol** » Thu Dec 14, 2006 5:31 pm

Will it have done any damage? I hope not, i would be totally fu**ing gutted if it has done

jeremy · Post by **jeremy** » Thu Dec 14, 2006 11:12 pm

Presumably you are using bolts? - are they proprietory ones with shoulders?

I did my first and only XUD one a couple of months ago as my friendly MOT man insisted it was done (and yes it was a wise precaution) I used a draper kit - which was moderate - in that the rod intended to fit into the flywheel through the hole by the starter wouldn't go into the hole. It in fact measure as 8.03 mm, the hole is supposed to be 8 mm, and after I dropped the starter off to find it I sould only get a 7.5 mm drill through it.

In fact I used a junior hacksaw frame which I had handy and could feel it register with the flywheel - which wouldn't turn but would wobble it.

I did NOT remove the crankshaft pulley - but did remove the cover round it (2 small bolts and a bit of wobbling.) The rest should be OK if the bolts register in the camshaft pulley and the pump properly and screw home easily.

The reason I say this is that in relation to the coarsness of the belt teeth and the accuracy achieved by the bolts and the holes and the crankshaft locking the innaccuracies are small as you are dealing with whole teeth. This is not like a 16 valve which has tensioners on the pull and push sides of the belt - this only has one on the push or slack side.

Check it carefully - hopefully any problem will be with the fuel pump - not the camshaft - but there is probably enough clearance for it to be one tooth out without conflict with the pistons.

I think the secret is to fit the belt to the bottom (crankshaft pulley) first - then to the pump - keeping the belt tight - then the camshaft. This is the drive (tension) side. What happens thereafter is completely immaterial so far as timing is concerned but of course the belt must run over the water pump properly and be tensioned properly.

BX_dizwol · Post by **BX_dizwol** » Fri Dec 15, 2006 10:42 am

Cheers jeremy

Im going to go back out and have another crack at it.

J