TZD restoration.

Anything about BXs
tom
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Post by tom »

Thanks, mate. I have pretty well all the bits I need at present. Left hand ABS driveshaft for a TD is the only thing I'm currently short of and AFAIK it isn't on GSF's list. Have a good weekend and I'll see you soon.
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Post by BX Bandit »

Niether was the d/s I wanted...he just had a more up date list in front of him than the website..may be worth a ring..
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ellevie
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Post by ellevie »

tom wrote:I spent the afternoon cutting brass shim stock up to get the rear arms dead right so I'll be looking forward to that!
Does anyone have any experience of what happens if you get this wrong ? Too few shims or too many. I've had 4 kits now, 3 from SKF and 1 from MAPCO, and none of them have come with any shims in the kit. Could it affect the ride quality or would it just cause premature wear ?
David

BX19TRS 118K E Reg 1992-2008
BX19TRS auto abs 96k F Reg
BX19TXD 150k K Reg

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Post by jeremy »

Incorrectly shimmed rear arms - will in effect either be too tight or too loose. If they're tight - then the wheels will be where they should be in relation to the body but the trailing arms may not move smoothly which could be to the detriment of the ride and handling.

Too loose basically means that the arms will flap around - just like before you started. Again this will not help the handling - as the wheel will be able to move a bit sideways when cornering which will I suppose give a slightly loose feel to the back of the car or in extreme cases - some rear wheel steering - which is OK if its controlled as on a ZX or Xantia but not desireable on a BX.

tom
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Post by tom »

Today I learned that with the aid of one special tool, A doseur valve is a simple job to do on a TD. Take the bonnet off first and place a jack below the sump before removing the top engine mounting and pulling the engine forward. Now jam the special tool between the middle of the inlet manifold and the bulkhead to give you plenty of space (ok, one scratched knuckle). Special tool is a lump of 3" x 3" wood, 18" long. Done! Hooray!
So was the engine mount as well. Progress! Must bleed the brakes now but I'll wait until daylight and fit the new rear calipers while I'm at it.
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tom
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Post by tom »

Bleeding wasn't quite so pleasant when I took the OSF wheel off to find rather more LHM than I'd like to see dripping from the caliper. Another bill, then. Ticktime is over 2 minutes though so I'm not too sad.
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tom
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Post by tom »

The follow up... Last Sunday, following a good evening in the company of the para anarchist wing, drinking beer and talking Citroens with Bandit, Kitch, Doc and DLM, I fitted a new corner on the nearside so that at least the front suspension is reasonably symmetrical with just the struts to do.The front brakes were rebuilt with new calipers but the right hand one was faulty, the thread stripping before the new flexible pipe was even nipped up. Grr!. The old leaky caliper had to be reconditioned with a rebuild kit and is holding so far. GSF have another caliper for me to collect on Saturday. Interestingly, the left hand caliper had started to weep as well when I removed it which suggests that the increased pressure of the new doseur valve has caused them both to fail. Next weekend will see the front brakes completed at last, one strut fitted and the water pump and tensioners changed, I hope. So does DLM. I've promised him my old one for his leaks which is just what you don't need in this weather! I now have all the pipes for the back end and will be embarking on that and the other front strut the following weekend, if I'm not out finding a new dodgem for our Annabel... Work must be completed by Feb 15 though. France beckons. Imagine, Old car show, long drive through France in a well sorted BX. Drinking a good Bordeax by the woodburner while reading Gazoline. Can't be bad. DLM is taking time off work to come along in order to prevent me from getting too excited. All heart and selflessness, an example to us all!
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mat_fenwick
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Post by mat_fenwick »

ellevie wrote:
tom wrote:I spent the afternoon cutting brass shim stock up to get the rear arms dead right so I'll be looking forward to that!
Does anyone have any experience of what happens if you get this wrong ? Too few shims or too many. I've had 4 kits now, 3 from SKF and 1 from MAPCO, and none of them have come with any shims in the kit. Could it affect the ride quality or would it just cause premature wear ?
You can still get the shims from a dealerr - I have a spare packet if people are interested.

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Oscar
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Post by Oscar »

I'm interested, as I've just done this job. I'll need advice on how to get the shimming right though.
(Red BX 1.7TZD ("Well, it is a style icon" - Tom Sheppard)) "Was", Tom, "was"

tom
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Post by tom »

This weekend I changed the water pump and the cam belt tensioners. And I used the wrong washer on the tensioner locking bolt :oops: . So the tensioner backed off as the engine turned over :( THe belt jumped the camshaft sprocket :cry: :cry: . Sunday night was sleepless. I got away with it though despite sheer bloody carelessness on my part :o
GSF were very good about the duff caliper as well so that was good.
For those of you who have a tensioner job to do, there is mention made of a special tool to hold the plunger in place. I found it easier to drill the housing and tap it M6. You'll see a suitable boss on the casting. I fitted a setscrew into it and used that to hold the plunger in place until I was ready to release it.
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mat_fenwick
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Post by mat_fenwick »

Oscar wrote:I'm interested, as I've just done this job. I'll need advice on how to get the shimming right though.
What I did was measure the thickness of (what was left of) the original shim and replace it with an identical one. I figured that any variation in the machining of the bearings would be minute compared with the machining variation of the arm.

I bought 2 kits (at £17 each if I remember correctly!!!!!) in case I needed the same size shim for both sides. I didn't, therefore somewhere I have the other set. I will try and did it out and let you know.

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Post by ellevie »

There was a Citroen supplied Rear Arm Bearing Setting Tool sold on eBay about 9 months ago; I think it was described as being used for setting the preload on the bearing. When I did mine, there was just one old shim as thin as a razor blade. I wonder if anybody has found one with a substantial thickness of old shims. I'm still fairly puzzled as to why the kits are being supplied without any shims. I wonder if they are making the bearings slightly thicker than the originals, or maybe they have decided that the shims are simply not needed for some reason or other.
David

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BX19TRS auto abs 96k F Reg
BX19TXD 150k K Reg

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mat_fenwick
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Post by mat_fenwick »

I think the kits don't have shims as they assume the old ones will be re-used. Not always possible if you open it up and all that's left is a pile of rust...

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Post by BX Bandit »

I've not seen the shims on either side of my TD...I just assumed there weren't any! :oops: seems ok tho'..I just felt for any play between the carrier and the arm itself and was happy the fit was pretty good!!
1990 BX 16V Platinum Grey
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Oscar
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Post by Oscar »

Yes, I spent a long time looking for the "new shim" before giving up and finding an old one on the workshop floor.
(Red BX 1.7TZD ("Well, it is a style icon" - Tom Sheppard)) "Was", Tom, "was"