I've been trying to do some research about getting our engine rebuilt. Can anybody recommend anybody?
Theres plenty of 205 engine rebuilders around, judging by the reports on discussions forums theres some cowboys out there.
Once firm seems quite genuine though, Puma Racing although they seem to concentrate on performance upgrades which isnt something i'm fussed about.
I would like somebody who really understands the XU engine though. Have put a few requests into these parts finder websites to find somethings. If i could get a rebuilt engine i could have ours out and a new one back in place in a weekend.
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- Ian_Fearn
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Any ideas for engine rebuilders???
Have had a quote for a replacement 'good used' engine for £352 inc vat. Seems damn steep to me that.
Looking at costs for me to do the job though...
Big ends, crank check (+ grind if req'd), piston rings, maybe liners depending on damage, replacement head if req'd (this ones been machined before), valve guides, stem seals, shims, worst case scenario a cam too. Add this up plus all the seals and its a fair old whack.
Any ideas for engine rebuilders???
Have had a quote for a replacement 'good used' engine for £352 inc vat. Seems damn steep to me that.
Looking at costs for me to do the job though...
Big ends, crank check (+ grind if req'd), piston rings, maybe liners depending on damage, replacement head if req'd (this ones been machined before), valve guides, stem seals, shims, worst case scenario a cam too. Add this up plus all the seals and its a fair old whack.
Over and out from me
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I did mine myself. Wasn't actually the cheapest route to take, but I know I've got a half reconditioned engine now at least.
Having the crank reground, lightened and balanced, honing the bores, supplying rings and bearings and acid cleaning the block came to just over £400, but they did spend a long time on my crank as I'd bent it
All the parts I bought came to about £160.
Having the crank reground, lightened and balanced, honing the bores, supplying rings and bearings and acid cleaning the block came to just over £400, but they did spend a long time on my crank as I'd bent it
All the parts I bought came to about £160.
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It was everything, I took the head apart and changed the valve stem oil seals because it was starting to puff a little bit of blue every now and then.
It also included a new water pump and cambelt kit. Later on I bought a brand new clutch and did that while it was out, and part of that £400 was spend on refacing the flywheel and lightening and balancing it.
Mine has wet liners too, they just fell out when I removed the pistons The bottom end gasket set has all the new rings for them included.
How far gone is your crank then? Are the bearings noisy?
It also included a new water pump and cambelt kit. Later on I bought a brand new clutch and did that while it was out, and part of that £400 was spend on refacing the flywheel and lightening and balancing it.
Mine has wet liners too, they just fell out when I removed the pistons The bottom end gasket set has all the new rings for them included.
How far gone is your crank then? Are the bearings noisy?
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- Ian_Fearn
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I've no idea if the crank is knackered, the engine is groaning a lot but its only when under load, for instance going up a hill. Sounds top end like to me.
Bottom end needs work though as its got oil and fumes coming out of the dipstick tube.
I'm getting a bit more worried about it now because there is now a smell coming through into the cabin when the blowers are on. Its done about 130k now.
I've been of the school of thought to just leave it until it breaks but the missus is going to be using it for some 500 mile trips soon.
Bottom end needs work though as its got oil and fumes coming out of the dipstick tube.
I'm getting a bit more worried about it now because there is now a smell coming through into the cabin when the blowers are on. Its done about 130k now.
I've been of the school of thought to just leave it until it breaks but the missus is going to be using it for some 500 mile trips soon.
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Well if the crank doesn't need any work, thats the major expense dealt with. Its the labour from sorting that which pushed the price of mine up. Depends what sort of groaing you mean though, could it be something dumb like the exhaust mani/downpipe gasket leaking?
Otherwise I'd just get the bores honed, fit new rings and clean the bottom end up. Then I'd do the valve seals, HG etc. It guarantees the engine for the future, like a mini overhaul.
Best bit with that is that you can leave the engine in situ and just remove the head
Otherwise I'd just get the bores honed, fit new rings and clean the bottom end up. Then I'd do the valve seals, HG etc. It guarantees the engine for the future, like a mini overhaul.
Best bit with that is that you can leave the engine in situ and just remove the head
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- docchevron
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Hhmm, if it's breathing badly then the pistons will need doing, or at least the rings.
The crank will probably be ok though, they were hardened when new and are damn near bullit proof.
I think I'd be tempted to strip the head off and look at the bores, if the bores look ok, then give them a hone, if the pistons look ok, re-ring them and stuff them back in.
The crank shouldn't be scored unless its run out of oil, so new shells, maybe a pump (they're cheap enough), re-build the head, job done.
Less than £400 if you do it yourself.
If the heads been skimmed already as you say then it may take another skim, depends how much was taken out last time.
I can provide a good head should it be required. Infact the head is attached to an engine! But it's high mileage, ran fine, but mat not be what you're after. Although the head was done only 3000 miles before the engine came out of the car so it should be fine....
Cheers
Chris g
The crank will probably be ok though, they were hardened when new and are damn near bullit proof.
I think I'd be tempted to strip the head off and look at the bores, if the bores look ok, then give them a hone, if the pistons look ok, re-ring them and stuff them back in.
The crank shouldn't be scored unless its run out of oil, so new shells, maybe a pump (they're cheap enough), re-build the head, job done.
Less than £400 if you do it yourself.
If the heads been skimmed already as you say then it may take another skim, depends how much was taken out last time.
I can provide a good head should it be required. Infact the head is attached to an engine! But it's high mileage, ran fine, but mat not be what you're after. Although the head was done only 3000 miles before the engine came out of the car so it should be fine....
Cheers
Chris g
Smokes lots, because enough's enough already!
Far too many BX's, a bus, an ambulance a few trucks, not enough time and never enough cash...
Far too many BX's, a bus, an ambulance a few trucks, not enough time and never enough cash...
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The GT dad has is on 188k miles and running like new.
Didn't touch wood when I said that
Didn't touch wood when I said that
One third of a three-spoke BX columnist team for the Citroenian magazine.
CCC BX registrar: The national BX register - click to submit a car!
1983(A) 16TRS (Rouge Valleunga)
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CCC BX registrar: The national BX register - click to submit a car!
1983(A) 16TRS (Rouge Valleunga)
1990(H) 16Valve (Rouge Furio)