Before I remove my head, some Q.s for you guys...

simonineaston · Post by **simonineaston** » Mon Apr 23, 2007 4:16 pm

Having followed your good advice, folks and had a jolly good go at bleeding my coolant, I am here to tell you chaps that my system blows more bubbles than my favorite bottle of Matey... it is time to take off the head methinks but I've got a couple of Q.s before I do, which are:
1) What is the name of the tool required to fit the head bolts - I can see it's not an hex socket?
2) The manuals refer to measuring the depth of the piston protrusion - can't I simply buy a gasket exactly the same thickness as the existing one?
3) Can you reassure me that access to the 2 bolt/spring/nut combinations is easier than it looks - I've peered between the engine and the bulkhead and I can't even see the nuts, never mind access them...
and finally, the manuals show the head being removed with 2 L shaped special tools - do I have to make up a pair or can it be done without?
TIA

tom · Post by **tom** » Mon Apr 23, 2007 4:40 pm

1: T55 Torx bit
2: Not strictly relevant. If the head needs skimming, the engine shop will tell you which gasket you will need.
3: A little tight but easy enough once the top engine mount is out.
the head will usually come off with a modicum of judicious violence.

simonineaston · Post by **simonineaston** » Mon Apr 23, 2007 5:13 pm

tom wrote:If the head needs skimming,

Oh Dear... how much is that likely to cost?
any advice about gaskets - I've seen reference to "metal" head gaskets are they better than any other type?

Kitch · Post by **Kitch** » Mon Apr 23, 2007 6:14 pm

You can use a standard spec gasket aslong as the head is completely flat, and it's done up at the right torques, in the right sequence. And provided the head hasn't been skimmed before.

If you're still not sure, the gasket should have some small notches in the side of it at one end. These refer to the thickness, although they aren't an actual measurement.

You might have the T55 Torx bit headed bolt Tom has mentioned, but you might also have a female Torx headed bolt depending on the brand of bolts. IIRC, an E15 (possibly an E14....double check somewhere!) bit is required to remove these. Halfords do them.

Post by **docchevron** » Tue Apr 24, 2007 2:42 am

Well, just to throw my two penny in.
I ALWAYS get the head skimmed if it comes off, since you're in Bristol I recomend Bowdens LTD in Patchway, they do all my engineering work, and they know XU engines, Tel 0117 9693355.

If the heads skimmed I alays fit the thickest gasket I can get, namely a number 3, despite the fact some gaskets have 5 notches, it's still a number three..

Clean the top of theblock with a piece of emery wrapped around something flat (piece of wood for example).

I wouldn't personally use a metal gasket although I know plenty of people that have.. Unless the block and head are PERFECTLEY flat, avoid.

If you get stuck, send me a PM, I'm in Bristol, doint have alot of spare time but could no doubt squeeze you in somewhere for a quick head job....

Cheers
Chris g

RichardW · Post by **RichardW** » Tue Apr 24, 2007 12:39 pm

It's 5 years since I did a BX TD head gasket with the engine in-situ and it still gives me nightmares

Mind you, it was the first time I had the head off an engine, so maybe a BX TD wasn't the place to start....

First thing to do is check whether or not you can get the centre bolt out of the inlet manifold (the one haynes says you need to modify a 6mm allen key for). If it will not come out, take the engine out - you will thank yourself later (there are a whole host of problems associated with trying to remove the head with the manifolds attached - I've still got the scars and the wrecked first new gasket to prove it...). In fact, take the engine out anyway, whack a new clutch in and change the braided hoses - it will take no longer than doing the head in situ, but will save countless hours on the other jobs.

I hear Jon's pretty handy with the BX TD / engine crane combo these days

tim leech · Post by **tim leech** » Tue Apr 24, 2007 1:21 pm

docchevron1472 wrote:Well, just to throw my two penny in.
I ALWAYS get the head skimmed if it comes off, since you're in Bristol I recomend Bowdens LTD in Patchway, they do all my engineering work, and they know XU engines, Tel 0117 9693355.

If the heads skimmed I alays fit the thickest gasket I can get, namely a number 3, despite the fact some gaskets have 5 notches, it's still a number three..

Clean the top of theblock with a piece of emery wrapped around something flat (piece of wood for example).

I wouldn't personally use a metal gasket although I know plenty of people that have.. Unless the block and head are PERFECTLEY flat, avoid.

If you get stuck, send me a PM, I'm in Bristol, doint have alot of spare time but could no doubt squeeze you in somewhere for a quick head job....

Cheers
Chris g

Doc you always find time for head jobs dont u

Post by **docchevron** » Tue Apr 24, 2007 1:30 pm

RichardW wrote: First thing to do is check whether or not you can get the centre bolt out of the inlet manifold (the one haynes says you need to modify a 6mm allen key for). If it will not come out, take the engine out - you will thank yourself later (there are a whole host of problems associated with trying to remove the head with the manifolds attached

??
Maybe I'm being dense here, but how is it easier to remove an engine than do the head with the block in situ??

The head comes off no problem with the manifold's attached, yeah it's bloody heavy, but if you use an engine crane to lift the head off and back on, it's a simple enough job.

As for the allen bolt on the inlet manifold, a short socket with a wobble bar on it works for me!

RichardW · Post by **RichardW** » Tue Apr 24, 2007 4:48 pm

"Maybe I'm being dense here, but how is it easier to remove an engine than do the head with the block in situ?? "

Maybe a bit hasty there

What I was thinking was that usually by the time you get to a head job it's time for the octopus, the braided hoses and the clutch. All can be done easily with the engine out, and the total time will be less. I struggled to get the turbo out past the back of the block, but on reflection that could be eased by propping the engine forward a bit to make a bit more room. The head / turbo combo is heavy - unfortunately no engine crane available when I did it.... There was no way the center manifold bolt was coming out on mine with an allen key the only way I could get it off was to remove the turbo first, and then undo it with a pair of stilons

Undoing and retightening the head bolts with the manifolds in the way is a right PFD too.

Oh and top tip - make sure the turbo oil feed pipe has gone the right side of the drive shaft BEFORE you torque down the head bolts.....

Post by **docchevron** » Wed Apr 25, 2007 2:55 am

RichardW wrote: Undoing and retightening the head bolts with the manifolds in the way is a right PFD too.

Oh and top tip - make sure the turbo oil feed pipe has gone the right side of the drive shaft BEFORE you torque down the head bolts.....

Yeah the rear bank of bolts can be issueous with the inlet manifold in place, unless you have an uber long T55 socket!!

Good call about the feed pipe though.. been there, done that.... did it again properly.....

I see what you're saying about the octopus and the such, although if Simon doesn't have vast amounts of cash then just fixing what needs fixing as it comes up may be better for him?

I have to say I do things your way with my cars.
If a strut needs replacing, then whilst I'm "down there" I'll do the ball joints, drop links, TRE's, wheel bearings etc.. so yeah, I agree with your ideologies totally.

Cheers
Chris G

roscoe · Post by **roscoe** » Wed Apr 25, 2007 8:58 am

When my cambelt tensioner let go last year and did in the top end of the engine, I did the head in-situ. It is heavy, but I managed to get it out and back in without a crane (cost me a few visits to the chiropractor though

). Definitely a good tip about the turbo oil feed pipe - that one got me but I hadn't yet done final torquing on head bolts so had to lift it off and redo the pipe

. My occy was OK and I had done the clutch and cable a few months prior so had no reason to pull the engine - but would have if the clutch hadn't been changed. If I have to do it again, would pull the engine as I would do the octupus this time as well.

RichardW · Post by **RichardW** » Wed Apr 25, 2007 12:38 pm

Glad i was not the only one with the turbo pipe problem. Trouble was I had already torqued the head down, and was on the second new gasket - the first one got scratched getting the head back on - so I just bent the pipe up over the driveshaft and prayed it was OK at the turbo end. Then struggled for about 2 hours to get the union back in the block - eventually had to get my wife to help, and with 3 hands the bugger went in first time. Grrr.

simonineaston · Post by **simonineaston** » Tue Aug 14, 2007 5:30 pm

Have just re-read the last few posts in this topic and now that I have lifted my head off (last week-end) - boy do some of those comments make sense... especially those about the turbo oil feed tube and the bolt that the inlet manifold sits on. I found out about everything that sits in the shade of the canted back engine by braille, as there was no mention of anything other than a brief ref. to the 2 sprung exhaust manifold bolts in the manual I ill-advisedly chose as my reference.
The air around me and the BX was pretty much blue as I struggled with trying to lift off the head/2 manifolds/turbo combination - especially as I hadn't got around to taking off the bolt that secures an innocent looking hose support in front of the hyrdraulic pump.

It's all off now but I might still do a rant about "pocket mechanic" manuals sometime...