Rear suspension squeek

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poormansgs
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Rear suspension squeek

Post by poormansgs »

Although my BX14 rises quickly, there is a persistant squeeking from the rear somewhere - and when stopped - it creaks before lowering - sometimes lowering quite suddenly. I have sprayed WD40 everywhere but to no avail.
I am wondering if it xould be the bearings on the trailing arms ?
any suggestions welcome
Regards
Geoff

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AndersDK
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Post by AndersDK »

Your wonderings are correct Geoff :wink:
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dead cars : '89white 16RS - '89antrasitTRDturboEst - '90white19triBreak

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ken newbold
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Post by ken newbold »

Could also be the rear brakes that are binding
They think it's all over, it is now!

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AndersDK
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Re: Rear suspension squeek

Post by AndersDK »

poormansgs wrote: - and when stopped - it creaks before lowering - sometimes lowering quite suddenly.
ken newbold wrote:Could also be the rear brakes that are binding
You're right Ken, the IN-famous problem of corrosion between rear calipers and rear arms could cause the calipers to sit in an angle to the discs.
I really doubt it however. The rear brakes would wear their pads very quickly to clear the discs, if pistons were stuck to do this.
C U / Anders - '90red16riBreak - '91GrisDolment16meteor - Project'88red19trsBreak
dead cars : '89white 16RS - '89antrasitTRDturboEst - '90white19triBreak

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ken newbold
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Post by ken newbold »

The rear end on mine would squeak and groan as you got out of the car, until I freed off the rear calipers.


But with the sudden drop in suspension, I suspect it's the rear arm bearings as well.
They think it's all over, it is now!

poormansgs
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Post by poormansgs »

thanks guys for this - I see that there is much on this topic in the archives - but in a word : 1) how difficult is it to repair; and 2) is it costly ?
Thanks and regards
Geoff

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DavidRutherford
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Post by DavidRutherford »

You can either do it yourself. £22ish for the kit, and if it's the first one you've done allow 2+ hours to do it. You will need some reasonably good tools to do it though, including a 6-side 13mm socket for the unfeasably tight anti-roll-bar clamp, 24mm(I think) socket/spanners for the through bolt, long punches/drifts to get the inner races out of the suspension arm, etc.

Alternatively, any garage with half a clue should be able to do them for £70-£100 per side, with maybe a bit of a deal if you do both at the same time.
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poormansgs
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Post by poormansgs »

thanks for your reply - that is really kind. I will do the job myself
what is the repair kit called ?
Regards
Geoff

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MULLEY
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Post by MULLEY »

Dont forget to get the seperate wedge kit so that the bearing kit is pre-loaded correctly. Unfortunately its just a collection of washers which cost about a tenner from citroen.....

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AndersDK
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Post by AndersDK »

Rear arm repair kit.
Its not necessary with the wedge set. The parts in the repair kit have adequate production tolerances to match exactly.
Any wedges found when arm removed should be re-used.
They are there to compensate for depth variations in the arm bore, which was a problem on the first production series.

On re-assembly you can test the bearing preload very easy :
If the arm dangles like a pendulum, the bearings have too little preload and must be adjusted by the wedge set.
If the arm just barely can swing down by its own weight, its about perfect.
If the arm needs a firm helping hand to swing down, then the preload is too heavy, and likely the bearings are fitted with some dirt preventing them being pressed fully home in the bore.
C U / Anders - '90red16riBreak - '91GrisDolment16meteor - Project'88red19trsBreak
dead cars : '89white 16RS - '89antrasitTRDturboEst - '90white19triBreak

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MULLEY
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Post by MULLEY »

Cheers for clarifying how to tell whether you need them or not. I decided to get some just incase.