Jon's Blog started 7th October 2007!

[prm]

Jon, that bracket was most probably the spare wheel carrier hook.
Looks onto the carrier frame.
Not quite sure why they fitted this, as the frame also locates onto the securing/release bolt.
Possibly ?? enables the wider std. alloy wheel to be stowed after a puncture.

With the rear exhaust hanger rubber. I found if you reduce slightly - grinder, the width of one of the larger centre box type hangers, to fit snugly the onto the rear support bar. This extra width, enables you to centralise the tailpipe within the rear bumper recess, also reduces the movement.

Well done with the rebuild and pics.

Before you get to p- - .ed on vino.

If your able to, cut out a rusty section on the sills to have a good inspection.
Had to send one to the crusher as heavy internal seam rust ran virtually the complete length of both sills and rear ¼ panel door shuts.

But anything is possible with tin snips, and the mig.

Pete

[Mike E (uk)]

"there was a weird bracket with a spring in it, almost like a bonnet release that fell off "

I had exactly the same thing happen on mine.

I assumed it was just to catch the spare wheel bracket when the release screw is loosened, to stop it falling on your foot.

I binned it.

[docchevron]

Great work on the O/S mate, that looks really good.
The boot floors not too bad from the pics, and the outrigger having dissolved is fairly common too!
I think yours is in better shape than mine actually!
I fear it'll take me a good deal longer to arc back into shape than yours, you're cracking on at a great pace!

[m_2975]

Jon,

Looks all to easy welding that stuff up. I'm sure that it requires a bit of skill.
Well done. The car's starting to really look good.

I'm a bit converned about the look of the engine.....it's really rusty too....like the end plate of the gearbox and the sump.

Maybe i'm just being paranoid.



Michael

[jeremy]

Michael I can assure you that it takes a great deal of skill and practice to get nice welds like Jon has. Its easy with 5mm steel plate - but when you get down to 1mm (19 gauge) or thinner (20 gauge or thinner is used in bodywork with 18 for the thicker bits) (and its thinner where its rusted or stretched during pressing) the stuff just disappears in an instant leaving a big hole.

The trick is to do little bits, move and do another and so on until the whole job has been done.

Just in case this sounds too easy it all has to be done using a shield with with a very dark lens - and so in fact you can see virtually nothing until the arc has struck.

I must splash out on one of those photo-sensitive shields that darken as soon as the arc has struck. Trouble is that I've always got something else I want to do with the money like pay for the rest of the job I'm doing at the time.

[docchevron]

I got bored with tin snips, so I use a grinder these days!

Michael, it's not uncommon for sumps to rot over here, we change a few quite often on all sorts of cars down the garage.

That'll clean up and look ok with a lick of hammerites finest!
Thats really starting to look good Jon, I'll have to pop over and have a closer look!

[m_2975]

TBH if I have a "rusty" engine and sump over here, then that is good news and it means neither of them are leaking oil!

Very true, just looks disconcerting to me that's all.

That car must have been sat in a field or something though to get that much rust.

Michael I can assure you that it takes a great deal of skill and practice to get nice welds like Jon has. Its easy with 5mm steel plate - but when you get down to 1mm (19 gauge) or thinner (20 gauge or thinner is used in bodywork with 18 for the thicker bits) (and its thinner where its rusted or stretched during pressing) the stuff just disappears in an instant leaving a big hole.

The trick is to do little bits, move and do another and so on until the whole job has been done.

Just in case this sounds too easy it all has to be done using a shield with with a very dark lens - and so in fact you can see virtually nothing until the arc has struck.

Thanks for the pointers Jeremy. I've seen the shields and wonder how you can see anything, especially as Jon is doing at night inside.

I had a go once on an arc welder and made up a new rear silencer for the AX GT. What a nuicance that was! Came out like a bought one though as it took me all day being the perfectionist that I am!

Michael, it's not uncommon for sumps to rot over here, we change a few quite often on all sorts of cars down the garage.

We have plenty of pristine sumps and covers here....complete with air conditioning mounts.


michael

[prm]

With sheet metal cutters, would recommend the horse shoe type rather than the straight cut version, as these remove a 10mm waste strip between panels and only rearly suitable for almost dead flat steel stock.

Also have a look at the Sykes Pickavant vice mounted cutter. Goes down to 16swg. Used one for some time, ideal for intricate sections

[jeremy]

I find this shear very effective. It needs to be mounted in a vice on a bench but will cut accurately with quite a good edge but there is a bit of curl (which I usually bash out with a flat body hammer on the 'Anvil' of my vice.)

It will also cut thin strips which is useful for trimming to shape.

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/produ ... rs-formers

[prm]

Jermey – That Clarke price is far better than my Skyes, now at approx £80

Found the design very useful and works well.

We now know what to buy Jon for Exmas – must beat socks or smellys!!

[BX Bandit]

My dad has one of these:
http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=8015
Cheap, effective and especially good for curvy lines..