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Windy Miller
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My Cars: Citroen C5
Cortina Mk1

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Post by Windy Miller »

Having changed my BX TZD this time last year for a 306 D Turbo I've finally decided I can't ignore the error of my ways any longer. To correct this state of affairs I've bought a BX17TGD. It's a 'K' plate in Burgundy, has done 126K miles and is now in need of some attention. I'm in the lucky position that I can keep my 306 until the BX is fit for use.

Jobs done so far:
1) O/S outer CV joint replaced with good S/H item
2) Bottom engine mount changed for better item (original soggy from being soaked in oil)
3) FDV changed for 2nd Hand one which seems to have cured the vast thirst for LHM and the constant ticking from the pump
4) Heater fan fixed (faulty earth) and circuit board modified as recommended on this forum
5) Homemade tailpipe removed and S/H silencer fitted
6) N/S rear wheelhousing repaired (welded exhaust mount and bumper strengthener and fitted new plug to end of sill)
7) Removed rusty towbar
8) Renewed rear arm bearings both sides

Jobs to be done:
1) Possible welding on O/S/R bumper strengthener
2) Welding on N/S/F inner wing and possibly a small amount on the O/S
3) Fix oil leak. When I picked the car up I couldn't decide whether it leaked most of: LHM or engine oil !
4) Cracked windscreen (hope I can get this done on the insurance before the MOT comes round in June). I assume fitting a S/H screen is a non-starter ?
5) Service (Oil, filters etc. and a cambelt if I'm feeling keen !)

Dream List:
1) Better interior (TZD or GTI)
2) Temperature Gauge or maybe a GTI clock set
3) Remote Central Locking
4) Alloy wheels (Do any 14" Citroen/Peugeot wheels fit)

I know that it seems that I am spending more time and effort on this car than it is worth but the shell is in excellent condition and so is the engine (ignoring the oil leak).

The car rides OK so I assume the spheres are in reasonable condition. Both rear spheres and one front sphere look to have Valperex type valves fitted. Is there anywhere in East Anglia where you can get these checked/recharged. I think the fact that only one front sphere has a valve fitted means they may not be a matched pair? - is there any way to tell what type of sphere is fitted?

I would also appreciate any advice on checks/jobs I should do whilst the car is off the road which will improve its reliability/longevity. Finally, having cleaned the engine as best I can, I am having trouble locating the oil leak - what are the most likely culprits for this?

Sorry for all the questions and thanks in advance for your advice.



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ken newbold
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Post by ken newbold »

Question of priorities.

Cambelt is a must, after you've done this amount of work, the last thing you need is for the belt to break for the sake of £10 and an hour of your time.

Oil leaks, usual places would be the camshaft cover and the camseals. Do them all at the same time you do the belt.

Finally, and most importantly, check the condition of the hydraulic pipes. The front to rears tend to go where they pass up the side of the fuel tank, the rear brake and suspension pipes. The last thing you need is to be parked on the side of the road with green fluid everywhere.

Finally, if the pipes look good, treat them to a good coat of old gear oil with a bit of diesel in, applied with an old paint brush. I also do any seams, boot floor and subframe rust spots the same.
They think it's all over, it is now!

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Post by MULLEY »

As above, have you checked the sump gasket as well?

If you're not sure where the oil leak is, put some newspaper underneath the car & that should locate where its dripping from & then you may be able to trace it back to point of source.

Good luck finding it, oil leaks are annoying on an expensive drive, oops!!

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Post by SamWise »

One the cambelt front, is it worth getting a set of those locking bolts/dowels that some tool suppliers do, or is it easy to find them in the right size on the B&Q rack? And if the set is a good idea, anyone know a good supplier?

I had an S/H screen fitted very cheap to an old Montego I had (my God it was an awful car), by Charles Trent Auto Recyclers. My memory is that it cost about £60 all in.
1966 Triumph Herald convertible with big valve twin carb Spitfire head

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Post by mat_fenwick »

To lock the engine you need 3 M8 bolts, and a mini hacksaw frame!

Use the hacksaw frame to lock the flywheel (small hole under starter), 1 bolt to lock the cam (4 o clock position looking from the end of the engine) and the other 2 to lock the injector pump.

Windy Miller
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Posts: 17
Joined: Tue Aug 15, 2006 9:12 pm
Location: Norfolk
My Cars: Citroen C5
Cortina Mk1

Post by Windy Miller »

Good News - I've found the oil leak :D

I removed the cam belt cover and found it's been flinging oil up from the crank seal. The timing belt looks prehistoric so I'll be changing that and I'll do the crank/cam seals at the same time - then it's on to the next job !