Mat's BX Blog

[mat_fenwick]

True - I should have probably tried to test the ground before buying the spikes. But as it happened, we couldn't get posts longer than 8' locally, so if we'd buried them in the ground they would have been too short. Another day of rain and I've made a little more progress. Not as much as I'd like, as it took around 5 hours to dig the final hole!



The plan is to put a roof on it, and give us a bit of shelter from the weather. Might even be somewhere nice to sit outside in summer

[Defender110]

You need to be quick finishing it our UK summer week is usually the first or second week in March

[citsncycles]

Another advantage of spikes, even in this situation os if the posts rot or get damaged they are easier to change than having to dig out (for example) concrete bases

[Defender110]

But steel spikes rot much much quicker than tanalised posts.

[mat_fenwick]

They're hot dip galvanised and then powder coated, so would hope for a reasonable lifespan! I think the biggest threat is from logging lorries knocking it down as they come past the house (access is shared with the forestry). Logging has now started for the next 6 months or so, so we have the joy of 5am starts and a churned up track to look forwards to

[Defender110]

They're hot dip galvanised and then powder coated, so would hope for a reasonable lifespan!

Yes they should be fine, I used some cr-p ones from Wickes many years ago that rotted out in only 2 years , I've never bothered again since. The last fence I errected was supposed to be temporary as I was due to move my fenceline after bulding works were completed. Because of this I just burried the posts in the ground wedged with old bricks without any concrete so I could easily dig them out again, 5 years later it is still standing proud and straight in the original place without concrete and it is a 6' high fence. It's what's known as a temporary permanent fix

[Vanny]

I believe in the West Country they call it a 'Propa jaaab'

[mat_fenwick]

As in the Barley Pickers from Scrapheap Challenge...

Had a poke around the fuel filler on the BX last night, and this is what I found:



It's going to be tricky to make up an invisible patch repair, so am on the look out for a decent panel from a scrapper. But I'd guess that if the car is low value enough to be scrapped, it's probably in similar condition. Maybe I can get a new panel and just cut out the section around the flap.

[Defender110]

At least it's diesel, I wouldn't like to tackle that repair round a petrol one

[mat_fenwick]

True, although I may have to drop the tank anyway - at least the auxiliary tank. I would put money on the rust having spread a lot further on the rear, underneath the 'protective' coating than on the front. So I need to know how much to cut out or be able to remove any rust on the rear face, plus sealing the welds afterwards. Fortunately in a rare moment of foresight I didn't fill the tank up before taking it off the road (or is that because I'm skint?) so I may just be able to remove the auxiliary tank without spilling too much fuel.

It's amazing how much mud has accumulated there, despite regularly hosing it out. I'm going to buy and angled lance for the pressure washer to enable me to get in there better in future.

[docchevron]

could hack a bit out of a wing for you at the weekend if it helps? I have the old wing off the valver on the floor, it's a bit twisted, and obviously from a hatch not an estate, but the actual filler bit is ok. It is in blick though, not red..

[mat_fenwick]

Cheers, Kitch has offered the one from G-SEG but seeing as he'd have to drain the tank and cut it out before properly seeing what the rear surface is like, yours may be a better bet? I was thinking of a section a couple of inches bigger than the flap, and just welding that in - if that's straight and rust free on yours I'm interested!

No worries on the colour - I was even considering giving it a coat of paint after welding, that's how thorough I am!

[Defender110]

If you're going to fit a piece have you got a joggler? Thet are used to form a recessed lip on the recieving panel for your new piece to fit flush into. I have the one below somewhere (without hole punch) that I could post to you to try?

http://www.frost.co.uk/jogglers.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[mat_fenwick]

I've never used one TBH, I've just butt welded pieces in where they needed to be flush, and usually lap welded if it's underneath and I can get to both sides. Joggling sounds a lot easier, so that would be very handy thanks - I'll send you a PM shortly

[mat_fenwick]

Made a bit more progress on the house today:



I've just finished putting in all bar one of the roof supports, but not yet decided what to use for the roof. Corrugated uPVC might look a bit naff, but would be cheap and easy to put on. Or maybe flat sheets of clear polycarbonate - they'd be tougher than perspex but not sure how they'd look either.