All those bleed screws down there

MULLEY · Post by **MULLEY** » Thu Jul 24, 2008 1:41 pm

Aha, that explains it Mat, certainly good advice about the ratchet, mines only a halfords special so wouldnt cost much to replace if i bust it. Can you get an allen key large enough to fit the drain plug? if so it would be better giving that a whack with a hammer.

Way2go · Post by **Way2go** » Thu Jul 24, 2008 2:38 pm

MULLEY wrote:
Dont forget to replace the copper washer with a new one, as i guarantee the old one will be flat as a pancake, it will look like a normal washer rather than how a new one looks, they are fatter & rounded in shape.

Arn't all washers?

Know what you mean though, they are like miniature doughnuts that flatten as you tighten the plug.

This takes up any irregularities in the mating surfaces, giving a no drip result.

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » Thu Jul 24, 2008 3:19 pm

The square rod is an 8mm square key.
The door handle rod should be about the best tool you can get as these are already 8mm hardened steel.
You need a simple lever long enough to break the stuck plug.

I bet it has been torqued down insanely to avoid oil spillage from the old washer being re-used a couple of times.
The correct washer is a round profile fibre filled copper washer.
I always purchase washers in quantities of 5 and store them in my glovebox.
That way I've piled quite a few washers over the last few years.

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » Thu Jul 24, 2008 3:24 pm

PS : The sump plug torque setting is 3.0 kg/m.

Way2go · Post by **Way2go** » Thu Jul 24, 2008 4:10 pm

AndersDK wrote:The square rod is an 8mm square key.
The door handle rod should be about the best tool you can get as these are already 8mm hardened steel

Yup, my drain plug key that is 1/2" drive is square profile too (not hex allen). The size/profile of the door handle rod will likely suit as this is very similar.

Way2go · Post by **Way2go** » Thu Jul 24, 2008 4:59 pm

Actually, thinking back to why I bought the drain plug key was that a previous tool I had with a variety of end profiles including square did not achieve sufficient leverage to shift it the first time of removal.
The 1/2" drive key felt more positive and surprisingly did it quickly & safely knowing the only thing that would "give" would be the plug itself.
The downside of the handle rod approach is the efficiency of your couplings, levers and confidence in it staying attached under force! The drill photo approach will really only work if it's a "rattle" gun.
To persevere with the handle rod, if you have the "star" profile sockets rather than the "hex" profile, you may find one that will be a snug fit on the square section of the handle rod allowing you to get the leverage you need.

MULLEY · Post by **MULLEY** » Thu Jul 24, 2008 10:37 pm

I like the doughnut description for those washers

Have you managed to get the bleeder off yet Carl?

TB2 · Post by **TB2** » Thu Jul 24, 2008 10:58 pm

Didn't have the time to try again because I'm working full time. But tomorrow I will give it another try. I think I'll use the remaining bit of the handle rod (the part I used in the drill) and maybe tape the end some more so that I can fit it into the plug without any play, and then use a calliper to grab it and turn the bolt. I'll also use some penetrating oil on it.

Must get it out somehow!

I also have a rattle gun but without the proper socket I wouldn't be able to make it work just with that door handle rod. I had a look at the local car parts shop and they didn't have any sockets. That place is a dump anyway, they don't have LHM either. If I can't manage to get that bolt off, I guess I'll bring the car to a garage to let them loosening that bold for me.

I also have to see where to get one of those doughnut washers...

Thanks for all your useful advice.

Post by **mat_fenwick** » Thu Jul 24, 2008 11:11 pm

This is what I use to remove drain plugs - you can either use a bar through the middle or a 19mm socket on the outside (with a breaker bar if required!)

I used to use an allen key ground down to a square end, a bit rough and ready but it did the trick.

TB2 · Post by **TB2** » Fri Jul 25, 2008 1:39 pm

Finally!!!

I got it off. I tried again using the stuff I had but it just wouldn't do any good. Then I went to our hardware megastore and of course they had nothing. The A.T.U. car parts shop doesn't have anything either, so I went to that small shop which is run by one old man and asked him. He says: "Oh I think I've thrown that thing away recently". We go to one of the racks, and there he finds this key. He looks at the price tag - "92 CHF", around 44 GBP !! - laughs and says: "Is 20CHF okay for you?" He said only older cars use these anymore so he was going to throw it away.

So now I had this key, went home full of excitement, and then of course... it didn't fit. But at least now I had a sturdy rod which I was able to grind off until it fit.

Way2go · Post by **Way2go** » Fri Jul 25, 2008 2:57 pm

Well done!

That actually is the multi-ended tool I already had that didn't work for me and caused me to buy the 1/2" drive key which did.

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » Sun Jul 27, 2008 1:47 am

Way2go wrote:Well done! That actually is the multi-ended tool I already had that didn't work for me ...

Same here...
But I grinded it down to fit ...
no big jobbie