Clutch?

mountainmanUK · Post by **mountainmanUK** » Thu Sep 11, 2008 8:33 pm

American Werewolf?

Ahhhhh.......the "Slaughtered Lamb" pub!!!

"Remember..........stay on the paaaaaath!"

toddao · Post by **toddao** » Tue Oct 14, 2008 9:46 pm

Well, I replaced the lever then I adjusted it, was fine til about two weeks ago it started being a bugger to get into reverse. Adjusted it again and it's been fine til today when I couldn't get it into first. Adjusted it again but now that's it - no more thread left..
Does any one have any idea of what's going on in there? I thought maybe the fork that releases it is bending. I know it's going to be a new clutch soon but I can't do it now as we're in the drop zone.. any moment I've got to be taking the wife to the hospital.

Also, what size is the driveshaft nut ( don't think I've got a socket for it) and do I need a ball joint puller or is there an improvisation?
Cheers!

Jaba · Post by **Jaba** » Tue Oct 14, 2008 10:04 pm

Bruddy her Todd. You are in a fix there. Clutch buggered and baby (?)imminent.
Its time to be innovative. Borrow a car from the inlaws by invoking some ancient deutsche family traditions.

Clutches never fail at convenient times. Best to change them before they fail. You could even buy another BX as a spare to get you over the hump.

Nil illegitimi carborundum.

Q1. Drive shaft nut = 35mm, hex is desirable not bi-hex
Q2. Yes you will need a ball joint separator. Or you can simply separate the strut upwards from the hub to get the driveshaft out.

DavidRutherford · Post by **DavidRutherford** » Tue Oct 14, 2008 10:21 pm

toddao wrote:Also, what size is the driveshaft nut

35mm, although a (much more common) 36mm 6-sided socket will do.

toddao wrote:do I need a ball joint puller or is there an improvisation?

What you will need is a ball-joint splitter to get the bottom ball-joint taper apart. You'll need the bigger scissor type one rather than a small direct acting one.

Other useful tools include a length of bar to use as a punch to get the intermediate bearing out of its housing, a couple of bellhousing bolts with the heads cut off and screwdriver slots cut in them to get the gearbox back on easily, and a dose of good fortune that the input shaft splines line up when you put the box back on.

Post by **mat_fenwick** » Tue Oct 14, 2008 10:31 pm

Driveshaft nut will be either 36 or 33mm, i have seen both on the same car!

*Edit* Looks like I was beaten to it (and 1mm out as well!)

DavidRutherford · Post by **DavidRutherford** » Wed Oct 15, 2008 8:30 am

mat_fenwick wrote:33mm

Ah yes. Some of the cheap & nasty aftermarket nuts supplied with things like wheel bearings and CV joints were 33mm.. forgot about that. They are (thankfully) quite rare though.

toddao · Post by **toddao** » Wed Oct 15, 2008 11:30 am

Thanks for replies fellas! No sign of baby yet so I'm trying to get everything together for the clutch, which I'm dreading.

Jon wrote

You will also require 2 litres Total BV oil, and the 2 gearbox diff seals.

which seals are these? I'm at sea on this one as there's three pictured here or am I in the wrong area? I need to order these from Citroen today

I've only done a clutch once and that was on a Datsun C-120 van ( Nissan Vanette) and that was a straight forward two hour manual-less operation. This is more involved. I've printed out Jon's instructions but I want to have everthing ready and understood before I start. Sorry to bang on and many thanks for the support.

cheers

RichardW · Post by **RichardW** » Wed Oct 15, 2008 1:03 pm

Todd,

Can't see the pic as it's against your log in to service.citroen...

Anyway, the seals you want are the two that fit into the diff where the drive shafts go in. If you don't change them, then they will leak. Guaranteed!

I would also change the gearbox input shaft seal and housing - the two come together and only cost a few ££ (or Euros in your case

) - you don't want the box to puke all its oil over your nice new clutch!

The problem with your clutch sounds like the diaphragm spring fingers breaking up - the release bearing is wearing through the clutch, hence why it runs out of adjustment quickly.

Best of luck...!

toddao · Post by **toddao** » Wed Oct 15, 2008 3:53 pm

Er, yes I don't know what happened to that picture from 'service Citroen' but thanks for the reply Richard.

Now I've got total clutch spin so it's going no-where for a while and I couldn't get out to the Citroen dealer for the seals. I've arranged to borrow the ball joint splitter and 36mm socket and drive from a mate who works in a scrap yard but I can only have them after 6pm and returned next morning before 8 as lending of tools is forbidden by the boss. Each way to the scrapyard is a 5km cycle ride now!

Didn't know that you cannot get a 35mm socket for half inch drive only for three quarters drive unless anyone know any different.
Looks as though it's going to be the local taxi firm - ' Taxi Heidi' - to the hospital.
I will no doubt be back here soon asking more clutch related questions..

RichardW · Post by **RichardW** » Wed Oct 15, 2008 4:01 pm

I've got a 35mm 1/2" drive socket....

on the shelf at the local motor factors, and not dear.

Bit expensive to post it to you though

ken newbold · Post by **ken newbold** » Wed Oct 15, 2008 4:32 pm

Yes you can get them, but if the nut is really tight you're unlikely to shift it with 1/2 drive. They tend to break.

toddao · Post by **toddao** » Wed Oct 15, 2008 4:49 pm

Is this the differential driveshaft seal that I need? I'm having real problems with the English/German translation ordering. And he says there are two for each drive shaft - a big one and a small one(??) And if anyone knows the Cit part number for the input shaft seal and housing that is v.appreciated

Way2go · Post by **Way2go** » Wed Oct 15, 2008 5:10 pm

ken newbold wrote:Yes you can get them, but if the nut is really tight you're unlikely to shift it with 1/2 drive. They tend to break.

A 2ft breaker bar (Halfords Professional) worked for me on the hub nut with half inch drive. If these break Halfords will (they say) replace them without question.

edit: (Just remembered that you are outside UK so Halfords may not be a possibility. I guess the message is that it needs to be a quality breaker bar or..........

)

RichardW · Post by **RichardW** » Wed Oct 15, 2008 5:17 pm

Todd,

That looks like one of them - they're different.

Pic of the input seal:

For the input seal you want items 3, 5 and 6 (this for gearbox up to RP 4529):

0000210517 GUIDE BUSH 15.52 GBP
0000210925 COVER GASKET 0.32 GBP
0000210940 PRIM SHAFT SEAL 5.73 GBP

If your car is after RP 4529, but the gear box is before 4226113, then you need this seal instead:

0000251522 SHAFT SEAL 7.14 GBP

If the box is 4226113 or later, then you need

0000210535 GUIDE BUSH 10.02 GBP
0000251522 SHAFT SEAL 7.14 GBP

Clear?? Sorry - on later (non BX

) cars you can buy the bush and seal in one piece.

Pic of the diff:

The seals are items 10 and 11:

0000312146 SEAL 10.75 GBP (Right)

0000312144 SEAL 8.08 GBP (left)

Hope this helps!

DavidRutherford · Post by **DavidRutherford** » Wed Oct 15, 2008 6:24 pm

RichardW wrote:the seals you want are the two that fit into the diff where the drive shafts go in. If you don't change them, then they will leak. Guaranteed!

I have to say, I've never bothered changing these, and I've yet to see a significant leak. Yes, they weep a teeny-tiny bit, but not enough to actually drip.

As a pointer about the breaker bar needed to remove the driveshaft nuts: I have both 1/2" and 3/4" breaker bars and 36mm sockets. The 1/2" one struggles like hell, bends a lot and is generally not man enough for the task. The 3/4" one laughs at the BX nut, and equally copes well with the 41mm A/F nut on my van.

If you can borrow a 3/4" bar and socket, do so. Doing them back up isn't so much of an issue as they're supposed to be torqued to about 250ish lb-ft. I've needed to use over 600lb-ft to undo them before now.