TZD Turbo on Auto Trader

[Tourist]

Have mine.

There's nothing wrong with it, honest

[Kitch]

Well if you get it cheap enough it doesn't really matter. I'd rather spend little money on a car I knew had faults than big money on one that was supposedly fault-free, as they NEVER are.

I'm not far from Surrey/Oxfordshire, but I'm busy

[Boxwolf]

Well, the only thing I need to assert really is that the hydraulics arent gonna turn out to be shot and need big money to repair. If it is just the accumulator sphere how hard are they to replace?

I can afford the car, but no car is cheap to me. I would really like to get this car but without enough technical knowledge on citroen hydraulics I wouldnt know how to tell. I walked away last weekend because the car was chirping too often and I have heard that means something isnt happy.

If I could confirm the hydraulics were sound I'd buy that car right away (after making sure no rust on sills)

If anyone lives near either place mentioned and could spare some time on sunday, please let me know.

[Kitch]

It clicking every 9 seconds is no major deal. Accm sphere is an easy fix, and if that doesn't cure it a second hand part somewhere will.
It might just be a slight leak on the high pressure side of the system.

Main things to check are that the LHM isn't black, it needs to be green. Check the rear doesn't creak as it raises up and down and make sure the rear wheels aren't toed in excessively. This indicates the dreaded radius arm bearing wear.

When you put the car on highest setting, check it doesn't clunk as it raises at the front, it should go up and down smoothly from highest to lowest. If it clunks or seems to jam, the struts are dry and need overhauling/replacing. If it does it quietly, but in stages it may just need a flush and the filters cleaning, but use it as a bargaining tool. Garages know sweet FA about hydraulic Cit's, so any knowledge you can throw at them would work to your advantage. If you convince them its a nail, they'll really want you to take it!

Check for leaks all around underneath, especially the subframe behind the engine....lots of pipes around there that can split. Rubber ones are low pressure, metal are high pressure and either drip or spray fluid respectively.

The front and back should be very soft ideally, and you shouldn't have much resistance bouncing it up and down. Spheres are cheap and easy to put right anyway.

If you can see the discs at the back, check they're not all pitted...a sign the rear caliper is seized.

But in reality all the above are bargaining tools. Very little on a BX is terminal. I'd walk away if I found a leak, black LHM and a knackered rear arm bearing....too much hassle.

Rust would be the biggest killer now I'd say....check the inner A-pillars around the door hinges and the bottom of the C-pillars where it meeds the sills. Check the corners of the boot floor, the rear subframe mounting areas and the ront subframe itself. Everything else is pretty much cosmetic unless its covered in holes.

And lastly if its TD, make sure its got all it's coolant, and that it's clean. Then get it really hot, get the fan kicking in a couple of times and research how to check for blown head gaskets....TD are the most common for this.

And don't pay more than £400.

Good luck.

[Boxwolf]

Thanks Kitsch, that will be pretty helpful if I get to go see it again and don't have anyone to help check it out. I checked the coolant last week and it was pretty low, but clean and clear. Also checked the oil and it was pretty black, so I dont think the head gasket was an issue.

When we stuck the car on high the front seemed to go up in several increments but I dont think it made any clunking noise. I checked how soft the suspension was at the back, and it was very soft. As the car has steel wheels it would be tricky to see any damage to the rear discs.

My dad says the car had left a little puddle of oil under the engine, but I dont know how bad that was, if it was oil or where it might have leaked from.

[Tourist]

When we stuck the car on high the front seemed to go up in several increments but I dont think it made any clunking noise.

Edited: I saw this car going up and down. We put the suspension up to full height, then Boxwolf set it back to normal/lowest (not sure) and this is where it seemed to have a problem. The back went down OK, but the front dropped very quickly, stopping 4 or 5 times on the way. If I recall, it also made a creaking sound whilst it went down.

[Tim Leech]

Thst sticking struts James, and easy fix.

[Kitch]

Sticking struts aren't always easy....depends how far gone they are. At worst it'll need a new pair, which isn't the end of the world by a long way, so long as you're handy with a spanner, or you're willing to try things for yourself.

Plus if it's rising in increments, but doing it quitely and without any feel at all, it may not be sticky struts. The system could be slightly low on pressure, which could be related to the quick tick time. More likely the struts, but not definately.

As I said earlier, most suspension related issues on BX's are no where near as complex as so called mechanics would have you believe. MacPherson's up front, trailing arms at the rear and struts with spheres on in place of springs and dampers. Then it's all connected to valves via pipes. Easy!

It's diagnosing different problems effieciently that proves your worth, being able to pin point a certain part of the system to find the fault....and get it right first time

[Boxwolf]

At worst it'll need a new pair, which isn't the end of the world by a long way, so long as you're handy with a spanner, or you're willing to try things for yourself.

How much would a new pair cost, and how difficult to fit? I'm no mechanic by any measure.

[Kitch]

Well when I say new, I mean a decent pair of used will do. Technically it's only one H.P pipe per side, three 13mm bolts, one knuckle clamp bolt and some leverage. Oh, and the leak off rubber pipes.

Sounds tricky, but actually fairly simple. N.B most Citroen hydraulic jobs are messy

[Tim Leech]

Well when I say new, I mean a decent pair of used will do. Technically it's only one H.P pipe per side, three 13mm bolts, one knuckle clamp bolt and some leverage. Oh, and the leak off rubber pipes.

Sounds tricky, but actually fairly simple. N.B most Citroen hydraulic jobs are messy

He knows that now Kitch as he helped me change Tourists Spheres and got green blood all over him.

[Tourist]

Yeah well atleast my LHM is ok, that's about the only thing going for my car at the moment ...

We left a puddle of it on the drive, and the neighbors complained fussy.

[Tim Leech]

Yeah well atleast my LHM is ok, that's about the only thing going for my car at the moment ...

We left a puddle of it on the drive, and the neighbors complained fussy.

The interiors ok, the bodys straight enough and the engine itself sounds quite sweet considering. Keep at it mate you will get there.

[Philip Chidlow]

the boys straight enough...

I assume you meant 'body', Tim

Seriously I do feel for you Tourist, it seems you've got quite a steep learning curve ahead of you and considering how much the car cost you it's a bitter pill to swallow - but as the above says, stick with it. It'll be worth it.

[stuart_hedges]

We left a puddle of it on the drive, and the neighbors complained fussy.

Wuh? You spilled your LHM on your drive and the neighbours complained? Chuffin' Nora...