Sooner's probably best, so long as you're well tooled-up and follow that procedure. If a cylinder does start to turn, even with a heavily-loaded-up boot, then a large stilson tightened against the sphere end of the strut cylinder and braced against the ground did the job for me on the most corroded-in set of rear spheres I've ever changed.I had heard that was the way to do the rears Doc, i'm sure sooner rather than later i'll be changing some.
How to remove the to green bombs at the engine?
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DLM
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- My Cars: 90s/00s - lots of BX hatches/estates 16/19i/17td/19d
2020s - A shinier red TZD estate has replaced scruffy 19TXD "Red Shed". - x 13
Back on two wheels and pedal power for the moment.
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docchevron
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If they're THAT tight, then shocking them loose with a man sized hammer and a really sharp, weighty cold chisel is usually the way to go, get's rid of all that built up anger at how crap french cars are at the same time!
Smokes lots, because enough's enough already!
Far too many BX's, a bus, an ambulance a few trucks, not enough time and never enough cash...
Far too many BX's, a bus, an ambulance a few trucks, not enough time and never enough cash...
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Erikbm
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The cold chisel and hammer has worked for me before and was recommended to me by an aussie citroen mechanic. Make sure it is sharp and place it on the middle of the sphere.
A robust strap wrench also works and I suspect you could make a temporary one by using an old seatbelt, making a loop by tying a knot so it is a bit bigger than the sphere, then putting a small jemmy bar or cold chisel or jack handle into the gap and turning it until it is tight and then levering in the direction you want it to go - or you could just go and buy a chain wrench...
Erik
A robust strap wrench also works and I suspect you could make a temporary one by using an old seatbelt, making a loop by tying a knot so it is a bit bigger than the sphere, then putting a small jemmy bar or cold chisel or jack handle into the gap and turning it until it is tight and then levering in the direction you want it to go - or you could just go and buy a chain wrench...
Erik
Current Citroens:
BX TZD (rare private import), BX 19TZI (auto works in reverese but not forwards), AX GTI (waiting for a carby for it to bypass the problem EFI system), CX 2400 (works but waiting for me to put the leather interior in), Mercedes 300D (recently stolen and recovered but with every bit of glass smashed), Mercedes 450 SEL (very close to having it running again), plus a few others...
BX TZD (rare private import), BX 19TZI (auto works in reverese but not forwards), AX GTI (waiting for a carby for it to bypass the problem EFI system), CX 2400 (works but waiting for me to put the leather interior in), Mercedes 300D (recently stolen and recovered but with every bit of glass smashed), Mercedes 450 SEL (very close to having it running again), plus a few others...
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Way2go
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Dollywobbler
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Cor, this is a handy thread. I've got to change the accumulator on my TGD, but I'm not quite sure about the 'hammer and chisel' method. Where exactly do you need to strike it?
Would it work if I fastened a hose clip around it tightly to give me something to hit? I've done that for stubborn oil filters before now...
Would it work if I fastened a hose clip around it tightly to give me something to hit? I've done that for stubborn oil filters before now...
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Way2go
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Dollywobbler
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